Anyone ever tie the frame together?

94f450sd

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Nope, Fords have it too, that's actually where I saw it first - I was under a cab-chassis F350 with a 12ft flat bed taking off a steering damper, when I noticed what looked like plates welded to the inside of the frame rails, upon closer inspection it's actually a second pair of smaller frame rail pieces riveted to the regular ones on the inboard side. I remember wondering how hard it would be to find a pair of these and adapt them to my RCLB truck...

what you seen was 2 pieces of C-channel welded to the inside of the frame and 2 pieces of ford frame welded to the outside cuz the frame was stretched.cab/chassis trucks only come in 2 different cab to axle measurments,64" and 84".anything longer requires a stretch.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Could be, and I though of that, but I found no extra welds on the outside of the frame rails - they must have ground the welds down smooth? And the C-channels welded on the inside were following the frame rail bends very close, are these some specially-formed C-channels made for the purpose of stretching frames?
 

94f450sd

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depends on the body being installed on how they stretch the frames.depending on the body company doing the work the welds may or may not be ground smooth.if you do a search you might find pictures from when i stretched my old idi
 

sle2115

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I had a 1985 Cab and Chassis and it had a secondary frame on it! It ran from about 12" forward the rear of the cab to about 20" back. It was a C channel formed the same as the regular frame and rivoted in place. I cut the rivots and removed it, it was NOT for any stretching of the frame. It was a standard cab 8 foot flat bed and was purchased new by an oil company. I know the guy that drove and maintained the truck and I had asked him about it, he said it was factory that way. It was also a 34 inch wide frame versus the normal 38" frames of other trucks. I know this because I put the axles under my 87 F250. It was a cab and chassis dually and had 11 spring rear leaf packs, I know that because they are under my 87 as well! I scrapped the truck after removing anything worth keeping.
 

RLDSL

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Trust me , you don't want it too stiff. I have a Western Hauler bed on my truck and they rigid mounted that thing to the frame, add to that the fact that the bed is made out of about 3/16 plate most of the way around and it takes the flex plum out of that thingWhen I have a heavy load on where the suspension is loaded down and I park on an uneven surface, it gets hard to open doors sometimes.
 

LCAM-01XA

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I had a 1985 Cab and Chassis and it had a secondary frame on it! It ran from about 12" forward the rear of the cab to about 20" back. It was a C channel formed the same as the regular frame and rivoted in place. I cut the rivots and removed it, it was NOT for any stretching of the frame.
That's it!!! This is exactly what I saw, formed C-channels and huge rivets!
 

lotzagoodstuff

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So like the title says.. Going to do 2" body lift this weekend, was wondering what would happen if I tied the frame from side to side with side 2x2 box tubing under the bed for more bed support, as my bed gets used quite heavily, and frequently(6,000 lbs stone at a time). or the the massive amount of frame flex on this long pig just going to tear up the tied in points? Turning into and out of my driveway I can watch the bed misalign itself anywhere from 3/4 to 1 1/2" depending on the angle of approach. And yes the bushings are currently good, it all appears to be frame flex. Any thoughts?:dunno

I wasn't concerned about frame flex, but I was concerned about the lack of support where the frame crossmembers rested on the frame before the 2" body lift, especially when considering hauling large loads. I used hockey pucks, double stacked in the spots where the bed crossmembers and frame previously rested and it worked great. I have some leftover pucks if you are interested PM me.

Just my .02, good luck whatever you end up doing.
 

oldmisterbill

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Reinforcing a frame lenthwise can be helpful-but also can creat a disaster.Example if we made a section of the side frame so strong that it was absolutly rigid and abruptly ended the support at the point where the reinforcament ended there would be a tendency for premature stress cracking near the end of the reienforcement.The lines(imaginary ones) of strength should taper (kind of like a wire that is rigid at the connector will break from bending back and forth-if we put the wire in a rubber tube to spread the area that bends it will last longer) Length wise the frame must flex but it must have memory to return.Crossways it needs a lot of flex-again to prevent breakage.
That applies to the frame as well I have added side support before but like a long taper on the added peice-unless it goes as far as suspension point to the other suspension point.
I hope I made sense if any one would like to help top futther explain please do.
Mr Bill
 

troupp

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So I'm just going to build supports for the bed and not worry about the flex. I'm doing the body lift because the turbo is the next project. Baby steps.... too many things going on at once. I still need to pull the motor out of my hearse and reseal it.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Reinforcing a frame lenthwise can be helpful-but also can creat a disaster.Example if we made a section of the side frame so strong that it was absolutly rigid and abruptly ended the support at the point where the reinforcament ended there would be a tendency for premature stress cracking near the end of the reienforcement.The lines(imaginary ones) of strength should taper (kind of like a wire that is rigid at the connector will break from bending back and forth-if we put the wire in a rubber tube to spread the area that bends it will last longer) Length wise the frame must flex but it must have memory to return.Crossways it needs a lot of flex-again to prevent breakage.
That applies to the frame as well I have added side support before but like a long taper on the added peice-unless it goes as far as suspension point to the other suspension point.
I hope I made sense if any one would like to help top futther explain please do.
Mr Bill
Bill, you are correct on that, this is why many shops (and folks) who beef up their frames for whatever reason do not use square pieces of steel, but instead make deep V-shaped cuts on both the front and the rear end of the plates (plate ends up shaped something like this: >=< ), it makes for longer welds which does make the welded piece hold stronger, but it also distributes the load better and prevents stress accumulation in one area only. I've seen it done the other way too, where they cut the corners off, so the plate looks like a double-pointed arrow (like this <=> ), guess that works good too.
 

dyoung14

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i thought the medium and up trucks were made to twist? its how the frame and drivetrain handled the massive amounts of torque produced and that it would destroy a lot of parts if it didn't flex?

my truck flexes a lot. like when my truck was being towed out of a pond(ya this story again) and the bed was.... well look for yourselves...

and it wasn't bent at all. came right back to where it was supposed to be. if it weren't for a flexible frame then it probably would have bent.:thumbsup:

how did that happen:eek:
 

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