any special "MO-JO".....

[geonc]

....needed to disconnect the fuel lines at the frame?

Looks like a ---lift clip, compress line, remove clip and pull apart?
Or do I need those special fuel line disconnect cone shaped devices

Got a stand comming Fri afternoon
I holds Masseys and Allis Chalmers tractor engines so the PSD should be OK!

 

[94f450sd]

you need to go to the parts store and buy those plastic fuel line disconnect tools

 

[geonc]

you need to go to the parts store and buy those plastic fuel line disconnect tools

As in the whole set...or are they size/color specific

 

[94f450sd]

they only come in a set.they are around 5.00 at autozone

 

[sassyrel]

since your a good welder george--when the covers off--i believe id tig that ***** back together--and do a mite extra buildup on it--so it wouldnt ever break again---end of problem!!!!!!!!!!!!! cost of rod--and your time===nothing compared to privce of cover

 

[geonc]

since your a good welder george--when the covers off--i believe id tig that ***** back together--and do a mite extra buildup on it--so it wouldnt ever break again---end of problem!!!!!!!!!!!!! cost of rod--and your time===nothing compared to privce of cover

That's the plan :Sly
Don't do much tig on alloy tho...just sum stainless and mild steel so this should be fun

Tig welding mild steel and stainless requires a sharp tugsten tip, {unless it's thin sheet metal, then a dull point to avoid blowing thru} unlike alloy with reverse polarity the tip just balls over and cackles

 

[Mike]

Don't do much tig on alloy tho...just sum stainless and mild steel so this should be fun

Who welded your tranny case?

 

[geonc]

Who welded your tranny case?

Local welding and machine shop I don't have the 3 ph nesc to weld 300+ amps and even then he was blowing the machine breaker
That case is alloy..not just aluminum and is about 5/8" thick
not to mention welds like that are out of my comfort zone and to be honest, my ability.

I know when to say when

Not to mention a weld like that reqires a water cooled tig torch....all I use is air cooled and you won't believe the heat just from welding the thin stuffs...besides that weld required {I believe} 5/16" tugsten and the air cooled maxes out around 5/32".

Been reading up and talking to the guy I work for and he mentioned a weld process for leaks like what I have......clean the area both inside and out, seal off both ends and fill the void with pure argon {same gas that removes the oxygen for a pure weld} , heat the area so the fissure/crack opens and pour the heat on and weld the seam.....the argon will allow the filler rod to fill the crack thru to the inside....very similiar to sweating copper pipe----heat the area and apply the solder away from the heat and watch it draw to the heat source-----

We shall see

 

[sassyrel]

hhmmmmmmmm-cool idea george--never thought of that--didi weld the bar hole for the stud on a ***** once--tried to weld hole shut--arc kept going round and round--- --after some thought--filed out a slot on one side of hole--circle magnetics!!!!!!!!!! welded the hole right shut--instructor was nut--said how in hell did you do that--told him im not telling--he just glared at me--i told him in the next class session--he laughed--said even could teach a old dog new--weve been frineds for long time--went to soooo many night weld classes--he asked if i came to these just to do my projects--said yup--certificates after class completed--said what you going to do with these--wallpaper the house

 

[adrianspeeder]

The little plastic rings are a joke. I don't even like using the cheap X lookin tool. I bought the 70dollar snap on line removal set, but then again I have to always undo a lot of lines.

Be careful not to force the connection. If you tug too hard with any type of line tool not in all the way, the fingers/tabs will bend backwords and it will never come off requiring line replacement. (don't ask)

Adrianspeeder

 

[tonkadoctor]

Be careful not to force the connection. If you tug too hard with any type of line tool not in all the way, the fingers/tabs will bend backwords and it will never come off requiring line replacement. (don't ask)

In other words you mean I've always been really lucky using needle nose pliers and small screwdrivers

What alloy are the lines Geo? I'll guess at an aluminum alloy, if so you'll need 1/16" or possibly down to .010 pure tungsten not that 2% thoriated stuff (boy I think I spelled that wrong, too many years away from a TIG torch )

Here's a really good link for some welding edumacation http://www.millerwelds.com/education/library.html