38 gph vs 4.5 gph is gonna be a huge difference…
Only the 99-03 do. The early ones had a mechanical fuel pump.Doesn't the 7.3 powerstroke use in tank lift pumps?
That's where a regulator comes in.Edit, Google answered it for me, they run 40-70psi. I think that's a tad high for our engines.
94.5- 97 are mechanical in the valley, 99-03 are electric on the driver frame rail. Not sure what the pressure is on the obs but super duty is 60 psi with a regulator, no idea what it would be capable of on a deadheaded system.Doesn't the 7.3 powerstroke use in tank lift pumps? What are their pressures compared to the idi's?
I’ve lost count but I’m on my at-least 5th mechanical pump 2 delphis and 3 Carter’s I just put a precision one in today hopefully that goes better and they have failed in every way possible, weep hole dumping, diesel in oil, no pump, and my personal favorite the output fitting split spilled about 10 gallons in the road and gas station it was there for daysFor the ultimate in redundancy make sure to put the e-pump in parallel with the lift pump. This is how I have my Facet pump. That little cube will get you home but that's about it. It's not enough for towing as you'll lose some power. Just be aware of that.
It's easy with 3-way connectors and a check valve in each line.
@Selahdoor has a good write-up on the matter that I can't find using the google machine. My google-fu has weakened!
The reason for parallel is so the cube pump won't push fuel through the mechanical in the event that the mechanical ruptures it's diaphragm-- then you'll fill the crankcase with diesel and have a really bad day.
Also make sure the cube is after the main fuel filter. That little pre-filter on it clogs easily, ask me how I know... took me 2 days to remember I even had a pre-filter. Those were 2 long days of tearing my hair out, lol.
I’ve lost count but I’m on my at-least 5th mechanical pump 2 delphis and 3 Carter’s
I know on the earlier 460 equipped trucks they used low pressure lift pumps in tank, then the high pressure frame rail mounted pump.So there’s no low pressure in-tank pump that would be adaptable to our situation? That’s affordable and durable.
Hmmm, that’s no good!!
High risk low reward. If you break the arm off into the engine you are going to have a fun time getting it out. That happened to me on a different vehicle.Here’s a question for those who know more than me: our mech fuel pump has the same mount as most ford/Chrysler/chevy V8 engines, so is it only the arm that’s different? Would it be possible to move the IDI pump arm over to a pump meant for another engine with more racing/aftermarket support? I wonder if a reputable aftermarket high-flow pump could be adapted to run on an IDI. What do you guys think?
I feel like we must have dealt with the same guy in Arizona. I had carters continually breaking on a Cadillac. The issue is the tolerance is so poor on the build the plunger hook pops off the arm and then no more pumping. You can take it apart and hook it back on and then it just falls apart again.Makes me glad i went with the Holly red (plus needed regulator for 3psi, lost top end power unregulated at 5-6psi) on my RV. It's been on there three years so far crossing mountains out west towing and has worked great.
I had to bite the bullet and pay $100 for a rebuilt mechanical fuel pump for my 64 Bug, because new parts house ones are questionable. The rebuilt one is from a guy in Arizona who deals with classic VW stuff like fuel pumps and distributors. It bolted right up without the stacking gaskets hack to make new pumps have low enough pressure. The electric pump it had was too high and a regulator didn't do crap to lower the pressure from already low pressure to a lower pressure, so I put it all back to stock, fuel tank and pump wise.