The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Does that bolt into the stock location on the block? And the rod is actuated by the crank eccentric?? Such a cool idea.
Another lift pump lets me down.
- Thread starter rsaltaresjr
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Booyah45828
Full Access Member
Yes and yes. That particular picture is one for a small block chevy, however they made them for big blocks too. They operate similar to a diaphragm pump in that it's 5-7 psi self regulating. Unfortunately I couldn't find material compatibility for the o-rings and check valve, and now they also appear to have been discontinued.
SBC and BBC use a transfer rod to actuate the pump off the camshaft, whereas the IDI uses a longer arm straight off the lobe, so it probably would have been a lot more fab work then I imagine.
Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
I was wondering how you were planning to actuate the pump, as I was thinking the BBC used the rod like a SBC.
Do they sell any kind of a pump like that for a BBF?
I have never compared how similar the idi and BBF mounting flange is but in my head I would think it would be a easier to modify since they are both arm operated.
James
Diesilee
Registered User
Booyah45828
Full Access Member
I think they did, but I couldn't find any pictures of them though.
Like I said, the company is no longer in business, so unless you want to build your own from scratch, the design is no more then a reference.
Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
@Booyah45828 it actually doesn't look all that complicated if someone had the machining tools to make the pump, figuring out how to get the arm to operate the plunger would probably be the hardest part.
James
James
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Wouldn’t a pump sending 40-70 psi and regulating it down to 7-ish psi almost be like dead-heading it? Or returning so much fuel temp sky-rockets?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I should have said use a returning regulator here. I don't think that it would cause any extra fuel heating. The biggest volume electric pumps, while they may not put out 70 PSI, do all use a returning regulator in the fuel system. Dead heading? No. Think of it as diverting part or most of the fuel while letting what's needed through to your engine. Fuel heating? No. The vast majority of heat that gets transferred into your fuel comes from the engine. An electric pump won't add much, if any heat to your fuel considering the total amount of fuel even in a closed loop with a 19 gallon fuel tank. By the time that the fuel goes back to the tank and them mixes with the fuel that's already there, the temperature should be still pretty close to ambient air temperature.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Here's another way to look at it. With a completely stock fuel system, under normal driving conditions, empty and just driving at highway speeds, a lot or most of the fuel that goes thought the feed line still gets returned to the fuel tank without any excess fuel heating. A returning regulator does this except that most of the fuel doesn't even get to the engine to heat up.
hacked89
Full Access Member
TBD
hacked89
Full Access Member
I agree with all of this this. The key to IDI return systems is to minimize pressure in the return system and minimize flow quantity through the caps.
This shouldn’t need to be said but I also see return hoses that look like snakes all the time. That is putting incorrect pressure “lift” on the caps and then he engineers get bashed about leaking.
Also, another reason to reduce pressure on the return system that I’ve heard but not personally tested is that if the pumps return port exceeds ~2 psi it can increase housing pressure and impact plunger stroke.
I run the IP return not through the caps and T at the rear cylinder cap, then run the return down the driver side frame rail like factory. Then I run the regulator return down the passenger rail dedicated and Y’in them at the tank. Return 1 gallon a minute at idle.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I've heard that too much return pressure will stall out the engine too.
That is partly way the return on my 6.9 is the same size as the feed and way there is a cross for the caps to drain to tank, -05 hose is not a option. I dont have a issue with my caps being a snake but that is how the hoses wanted to be losse fit when I did it 10 years ago, and when I got it running 3 years ago I put new o-rings on the injectors. I put ~20k miles on it like this and was not leaking when started a few mounths ago. This setup will be going on the 7.3 but doing so will change out the last of the old cap hoses, that hose did not hold up the best over the years and think the non braded would be better to see condition.
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If you all wondering what the pump Im using, its the 6.5 pump and had no issues with it. It may be a bit small for the 7.3 that would need more fuel with the turbos, so may be due for a changed at some point when get a bigger ip for it.
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Also going to through this out there. I have someone running this twin d5 pump on all his d-max engines without fail, one has a tune and bigger injectors with no fuel issue. There is a single version that is listed at about 4psi, over the 7-8psi of the twin version.
kenny d5 twin pump
kenny d5 single
This d5 is the same pump that has been running in my pc for the past 4 years with no issue, non stop since. So I would see this as a good option for a e-pump.
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Booyah45828
Full Access Member
Return pressure increases housing pressure, which drops plunger stroke length.
When I installed the generator on the bus, I tee'd into the current fuel system, and installed check valves on the return side by mistake. With the check valves in place, my return system was held at lift pump pressure or higher, with it's only outlet being backflow through the air bleed back into the filter housing.
Needless to say, it ran like crap and made little power. Diagnosing the issue, I measured return pressure was 7 or so psi at idle, and with a rev it went above 15, maxing the gauge, and shut itself down. I then realized my mistake, put the valves where they should be, and it's back to near 0 and running like a top.
When I installed the generator on the bus, I tee'd into the current fuel system, and installed check valves on the return side by mistake. With the check valves in place, my return system was held at lift pump pressure or higher, with it's only outlet being backflow through the air bleed back into the filter housing.
Needless to say, it ran like crap and made little power. Diagnosing the issue, I measured return pressure was 7 or so psi at idle, and with a rev it went above 15, maxing the gauge, and shut itself down. I then realized my mistake, put the valves where they should be, and it's back to near 0 and running like a top.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
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Does this factory tee restrict returned fuel flow? My IP returns fuel over to #1, and now I’m thinking I’ll return it separately after reading posts above.
