Another Crew Cab 6.9 Rebuild Update

[OLDBULL8]

Gary

Interesting coolant passage in the last pic... The lower passage on the right is differant than the one on the left. Wonder why..

Heath

Not sure why the rear passage on the driver's side of the block is different but it is for some reason.

It doesn't appear that those are coolant passage's. I would have to look at the gasket and head to be sure. Heath, can you confirm that?

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[Optikalillushun]

Bull, is there anyway i can save that picture? Im making a folder for all these IDI diagrams and stuff.

BTW, love the progress!

 

[hesutton]

Ok dumb question. Why the press to install the gear or you didn't have a hot plate around to heat the gear up so it will just slide on? I've done cams in the large diesels before and while a press was used to remove the gear all I ever did to install was lay the gear on a hot plate set on high till it measured 450 with my temp crayon and dropped it on the shaft.

The shop press is super fast and easy. It literally took 2 minutes to go from a naked cam, to a cam that's ready to install. If I didn't have one, I'd certainly be heating it up.

Gary

Heath


It doesn't appear that those are coolant passage's. I would have to look at the gasket and head to be sure. Heath, can you confirm that?

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Yup, those are coolant passages.

Heath

 

[hesutton]

A few things I forgot to mention in earlier post.

The main bearings have an "upper" and "lower" half. Meaning that putting them in the wrong position can cause significant damage. The "upper" half goes on the block's main journal. There is an oil galley in the block's journal that feeds oil into the main bearings. The "upper" bearing will have an opening in it to allow the oil to flow. The "lower" bearing is solid and goes in the main cap. If you put it on the block and not the cap, no oil will flow to the bearings and we all know what happens then.

The other thing I keep going over and over during the assembly and was obsessing my thoughts every few minutes............. Cleanliness. Yup. I know it sounds a bit OCD, but you can't have the parts too clean when assembling these things. Especially the bearings. Any debrit or trash on the bearings or journals can embed in the bearings and cause bearing or journal damage over time. Your Mom always said....."Cleanliness is next to Godliness" and she's right, especially when it comes to assembling these IDI's.

I was going to go into stuff on using plastigage, but I think you are probably already bored from reading the stuff above.


ON EDIT:

I noticed something Heath... All your pistons are installed correctly pointing the correct direction.

Thanks Gary. Yeah, the piston and rod both need to be oreinted in the correct position. I double checked each piston/rod assembly to be sure. Didn't want to put any in backwards.


Heath

 

[icanfixall]

Only two passages in the heads are not for coolant and those are the oil return from the lifters to the pushrods to the valves ....

 

[Brimmstone]

Works for me on using the press. I used to have a nice one from Carolina Industrial till it got swiped.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes... Pistons all facing the correct direction can save a later teardown to correct it. Soemhow I installed a piston on the rods incorrectly and when assembleing that rod to the crank I noticed the problem. The big rod chamfer was on the wrong side when the piston was facing the correct direction. Also these rods have a very slight offset to them. Lay them down on a flat surface and you will see it..

 

[hesutton]

Works for me on using the press. I used to have a nice one from Carolina Industrial till it got swiped.

Dang! That sucks. Ever find out who stole your stuff? I HATE theives.

Yes... Pistons all facing the correct direction can save a later teardown to correct it. Soemhow I installed a piston on the rods incorrectly and when assembleing that rod to the crank I noticed the problem. The big rod chamfer was on the wrong side when the piston was facing the correct direction. Also these rods have a very slight offset to them. Lay them down on a flat surface and you will see it..

Yup, the counter weight on the small end (piston side) of the rod has got to face the outside of the block and the "cup" in the piston crown has got to face the inside of the block.

Heath

 

[hesutton]

Mel has my old DPS IP and a set of new Delphi's to make a Moose pump and Moose injectors!

I can't wait to get to the shop tomorrow and get started on putting the heads on. Will put the lifters in, then chase the threads in the block, put in the dowels, then the studs, and coat the VR gaskets with Hylomar. Then put the heads on and start the never ending toruqing of the studs. My arms should be nice and sore on Sunday morning. If progress goes well, I hope to get the valley pan and intake on Sunday.

I sure hope this freak'n 6.9 will not give me anymore problems after this rebuild is done. If so, DT360 here we come.

Heath

 

[Danielle]

I love the pictures and detail!!

I am actually hiring... you'd fit both positions I am currently in need of

hahahahahhahahahhaha

 

[ocnorb]

... then the studs, and coat the VR gaskets with Hylomar.

Heath, If I may ask, what is the reasoning on using hylomar?

Is it more for the cooling passages?

 

[hesutton]

I love the pictures and detail!!

I am actually hiring... you'd fit both positions I am currently in need of

hahahahahhahahahhaha

Thanks, I'll send you a CV.

Heath, If I may ask, what is the reasoning on using hylomar?

Is it more for the cooling passages?

The Hylomar is supposed to help it seal, and also compensate for any imperfections in the head/block deck surfaces. With the warped deck causing a failure in the past (despite studs).... my hope is the machine work, studs, and Hylomar will prevent any headgasket problems in the future.

Heath

 

[icanfixall]

Heath... Before you install the valley pan test fit the intake manifold and measure the fit. You do not need all the bolts in it and torqued down. Just enough to test the fit of the bolts thru the manifold. It should fit with plenty of looseness because there isn't any gasket to take up space. Because of the 7 thousands taken off both block decks it may not fit easily. Machining something off the intake manifold is not a big deal. It just needs to be setup and measured flat on both ends they flycut it. What might be difficult is knowing how much to cut off because of the angle it sits in.

 

[hesutton]

Heath... Before you install the valley pan test fit the intake manifold and measure the fit. You do not need all the bolts in it and torqued down. Just enough to test the fit of the bolts thru the manifold. It should fit with plenty of looseness because there isn't any gasket to take up space. Because of the 7 thousands taken off both block decks it may not fit easily. Machining something off the intake manifold is not a big deal. It just needs to be setup and measured flat on both ends they flycut it. What might be difficult is knowing how much to cut off because of the angle it sits in.

That's been a concern of mine knowing the decks were milled. The intake was a bit "high" in the valley before. Meaning it was sitting up on the heads a bit with the bolt holes just above the threads in the heads. I hope it fits as it should, if not, it'll need some love like you said.

Heath

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Goose has that issue. His intake was a bear to get bolted down