Alright...my turn

[Exekiel69]

Holy head gaskets batman!
That's trouble in the works.

Hard starts after an injector change and smokes like crazy does bring the thoughts of an untimed motor to mind.
As far the wandering rpms and power loss could be the signs of a metering valve issue.

Swap the other IP on there and see what she does but me thinks ya wanna get the HG fixed soon.

x2

or don't make long trips.

 

[seawalkersee]

Oh, its got the rebuilt setup going on now. May have it running tomorrow, but not sure if I will have the time...

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Got most of it together now. The exhaust is on and with the exception of the starter and the slave cyl, the bottom side of the bronco is done. I still have to fix the valve cover with the CDR on it and finish filling it with oil. Maybe by Sunday if I can find the time. I REALLY want to burn the oil out of the tank so it will start when it gets cold.

You must be registered for see images attach

All together now.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[seawalkersee]

You must be registered for see images attach

Did some fixin on my pnemonia holes. Now, my leg will not get cold in the winter.

You must be registered for see images attach

Studs on the driver's side because it is HARD to get them out when they are bolts.

You must be registered for see images attach

New high speed starter...and yes, I put studs there too...

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You can see how I figured out how the setup works. I used the heat shrink over the bad parts and then two layers on top of them. The good thing about this is the cables in need of the fixing were the negative ones. So...no problems if they do rub through, but they should be good to go for a while.

SWS

 

[rhkcommander]

good lookin motor

you can run off one tank of diesel for starting/stopping and swap to oilled tank when running btw

 

[seawalkersee]

No I can't...it's a Bronco.

SWS

 

[rhkcommander]

oh sorry thats right

could always rig stuff to heat it up, tank, lines, hotter oil flows better than cold....

 

[seawalkersee]

I could, but I think the simplicity of what I am doing will not work with it. This is supposed to be the "on the cheap" four wheelin', towin', daily drivin' mochine. It should go anywhere, do anything, and get 20mpg.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Welllll...at least I know I am stupid. I had a buddy show up today and help me bleed the clutch. After that, it was charging the batteries and put them in when the chitlenz was sleeping.

They wake up and its crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank,...I think you get the idea. None the less, I run the batteries down a few times (yep...I AM stupid) and keep the charger on. I have a new DB Electric starter on it and it spins like a champ, but no start. So I throw the charger on again and start hooking up the goodies that I have just bypassed to get this think running.

All of a sudden, as I am hooking up the glow plug harness, it hits me...No power to the harness, which has the power for the IP....Man am I dumb.

Springs to life and it is BEAUTIFUL as it screams to life. I could not figure out how come I could not get the oil pressure up while it was cranking. That is with all 3 gal. of Rotell in it. Still shows low though. I will have to get some water in it and throw the front clip back together prior to having it roadworthy.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Update time. I drove it today and the IP seems to be gone. It has very low power after take off. Smokes grey most of the time till it warms up and then clears up. Step into it and there is a bit of black smoke but I did not stand on it. The oil pressure seems to be a little on the low side for my liking (under 20 lbs at idle), even with shimming the relief valve .07ish.

There is another problem. It LEAKS like it is being filled. One VCG is leaking, no big deal. The big deal is the leak at the front of the oil pan and rear of the oil pan. Not sure if it is the pan or the front and rear main seals...BUT, with my luck, it is the hard part and I am going to have to pull the tranny and damper to see what I can do. My guess is that I am going to need a new damper. Not sure how or what I am going to have to do to get the rear to stop leaking.

Suggestions?

SWS

 

[icanfixall]

About the front and rear main seals leaking. Did you install the speedy sleeves on the dampner and rear crank seal area... If you didn't then the new seals are ruined by the worn grooves in the dampner and crank flange...

 

[seawalkersee]

Can I get the sleeves for the rear? More like WHERE can I get them for the front and rear. I am almost 100% that is the problem. Im just lucky that way.

SWS

 

[icanfixall]

The Ford or international rear main seal and sleeve part number is F2TZ-6701-A... I don't have the numbers for the front seal and sleeve handy but I do know Nappa sells the sleeve...

 

[icanfixall]

Seawalkersee check your pm's....

 

[seawalkersee]

I got it.

BUT if anyone else is looking for the kit, is the sleeve included in the kit or is it just a new seal? The lower end and cam bearings were installed by the kids (should have been a hint) at the vo-tech who did the work, so I was not sure if there was one on there originally. I am going to try to get this done this week so I can burn all of the oil out of the tank and start running diesel for this year.

SWS