Alright...my turn

[seawalkersee]

Ahhhhhhhh....this thing is driving me nuts. Today it was not really all that cold. Only like 60ish and it was hell trying to get it to start. I just threw in new GPs (again) and now all 8 of them are the BRU or whatever they are. I am going to test them tomorrow to see if they are getting 12v to them. I advanced the pump a bit yesterday less than the width of a dime. Seems to run rougher when it is cold than it did so I am going to retard it a bit tomorrrow and see what that does. Still bleeding off pressure and I THINK it is going through the electric pump (imaging that) so I may put the mechanical one back on. Are they the same as a SBF?

SWS

 

[hesutton]

Ahhhhhhhh....this thing is driving me nuts. Today it was not really all that cold. Only like 60ish and it was hell trying to get it to start. I just threw in new GPs (again) and now all 8 of them are the BRU or whatever they are. I am going to test them tomorrow to see if they are getting 12v to them. I advanced the pump a bit yesterday less than the width of a dime. Seems to run rougher when it is cold than it did so I am going to retard it a bit tomorrrow and see what that does. Still bleeding off pressure and I THINK it is going through the electric pump (imaging that) so I may put the mechanical one back on. Are they the same as a SBF?

SWS

The e-pump won't fix an air/fuel leak. You need to find the leak and fix it. That will be a big help and easing starting. Also, did you ever find out why you are getting popping/compression through the intake?

Heath

 

[RLDSL]

Ahhhhhhhh....this thing is driving me nuts. Today it was not really all that cold. Only like 60ish and it was hell trying to get it to start. I just threw in new GPs (again) and now all 8 of them are the BRU or whatever they are. I am going to test them tomorrow to see if they are getting 12v to them. I advanced the pump a bit yesterday less than the width of a dime. Seems to run rougher when it is cold than it did so I am going to retard it a bit tomorrrow and see what that does. Still bleeding off pressure and I THINK it is going through the electric pump (imaging that) so I may put the mechanical one back on. Are they the same as a SBF?

SWS

Running a bit rough when cold may be fine so long as it settles out when the fast idle/ advance kicks down, could just be that is telling you it is working. So long as you aren't getting any rough running when warm, you should be in an ok range . If anything split the difference from where it was if it is making you nervous. Most of them cackle a bit when first fired cold unless someone has timed them by ear to quiet them down, in which case cold starting , power and fuel mileage usually suffers

 

[seawalkersee]

Never did find the cause of the pop. I am FAIRLY certain I have 2 lifters that are shot causing the delay in lifting of the valve, thus the poping noise. I think the pump (electric frame mount) is the leak. I have disconnected the GPs and run the pump with the plunger pushed to bleed the air out of it. Then it just cranks and cranks. I have a bit of rust to fix and wanted to get it done before the winter so I can put carpet back in (at least) the front of it. But now with the starting problem, I am missing my carbe'd 357. And is the SBF ford fuel pump the same as the IDI?

SWS

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

And is the SBF ford fuel pump the same as the IDI?

SWS

Nope.

 

[seawalkersee]

Okay...well...Still will not start on its own. I took the wires off of the pump and had a jumper wire directly connected to a 12v source to be SURE the pump was getting 12v. Still no go. The glow plugs are only getting about 9v as best as I can tell by touching the plugs, but that could be from a bad ground on my DVOM. It was jumping around so it may have been higher. Since I am running so much oil in the tank, it may just not like it.

However, I can do the (Mel, stop reading here) ol shoot the starting fluid down the hatch and it will fire and run fine...but still smokes too much. I will make a jumper hose and go from the pump to my seperate tank and try it on straight diesel. I need to just run it and get some of the oil down in the tank so I can put more diesel in. Running it that way in the summer seemed to be okay, but I THINK that is my problem now that the temps have dropped below the 70s.

SWS

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Ok you're burning WMO at what percentages?

Kinda sounds like you need to thin the mix down now before trying to go any further.
Not sure what your temps are there but running WMO in my plow truck at a 70% mix on a 50 degree day doesn't go to easy on the starter.

 

[seawalkersee]

HUGE percentage of the fuel is oil. Not sure how much I have in there but I am going to run an aux tank with some full #2 in it to see if that fixes it. But for now, I have a TON of rust I am working on.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Been working like mad with my off time to try to find where the water under the dash is coming in. Think I finally found (several) the place. Anyway, ran it today and it SUCKED. It felt like I was drivin an over rich carbed engine. I hit the gas and it would bog big time. SMOKED super grey. Limped it back home and retarted (as you face it, counter clockwise) the pump a bunch but I think it was already advanced. None the less, I am adjusting it on the road and...well....Im kind of a big guy and am really ******* stuff. I broke the brass coming off of the pump for the return line. So, I limped it home (like 4 blocks) and will try again later.

How far off is the pump going to move if I have it off a tooth? It seemed to be WAY off when I was installing the new gear and moved it off a tooth on purpose to see. Now I have literally moved it l l <-that far at least. I think moving it another few mm will get it where it needs to be. It was smoking mostly grey but there was some black in it when I was on the way home...it also smelled like a diesel instead of burning plastic now.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Welp...Im screwed. Hooked up a mech. oil pressure guage t-day after retarding the pump. Just over 20ish degrees here and I was unable to set the timing on the pump after dropping it bath a tooth. I set it to about 0 and tried to start it. Gave it a shot after the GPs were done and it fired up.

Kids were asleep so I figured I would throw in the link bar for the actual guage. As I was checking it for leaks, I noticed it was knocking. Thought it was probably the IP being out of time and after I looked to be sure there was no leak under the hood, I went into the cab. N O T H I N G on the guage. It read 0. So, I thought well, maybe I have a bad guage or some serious air in the line. Cracked the line for a second and fired it back up. Jumps to 25 or 30 psi on start up. No biggie right? Nope. Turned it around and it has 0 again. Still knocking and yes it has oil.

I started looking for another engine close. This could not have come at a worse time with the new baby due in January. I think I may be parting it and selling the rest for scrap

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Oh, and I cracked the line while it was running to be sure and the oil was barely dripping out with it loose.

I just want it to be reliable so I can drive it, and now, I loose again. Picked the engine up for $400 and a used set of headers with less than 100K. Wanted to pull it down but thought "What the heck, it is less than 100K". Guess that is what I get.

SWS

 

[subliminal]

dude that sucks! at least you got a good price on that used idi. i want to pull the engine i have out back that has a bottom end knock and go through it so when my current engine goes south i have one ready. hopefully i can get one built before that does happen. if i lived near you id offer a few hands.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Limped it back home and retarted (as you face it, counter clockwise) the pump a bunch but I think it was already advanced. None the less, I am adjusting it on the road and...well....Im kind of a big guy and am really ******* stuff. I broke the brass coming off of the pump for the return line. So, I limped it home (like 4 blocks) and will try again later.
SWS

You have actually advanced the pump even further by rotating counter clockwise.
That would cause the knocking noise that you're hearing.

As far as the oil pressure goes with the mechanical gauge, how long did you let the truck run while observing this?
The oil pumps on these engines are a gear drive and rarely do they fail.

 

[seawalkersee]

It was running while this was happening. The more I think about it, the more I think there is something blocking the pickup or there is a problem i the line. It is pumping, but like I said, it was a S L O W drip.

I too thought that maybe the pump advanced was causing the knock. I just REALLY want to get it running.

Is there a problem with like the gasket blowing out on the pick up?

SWS

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Just loosening up the crimp nut on the mechanical gauge isn't really going to get an accurate idea as that line isn't going to really give you volume but it should squirt out pretty good if completely removed.

Check for a kink in the mechanical gauge line as well. If not the line or a faulty gauge,I would definitely pull the pan to see what the pickup tube looks like. It very well could have a plugged screen or the nuts holding the tube on have loosened up.