Aftermarket oil coolers

[RLDSL]

Anyone got any good recomendations for some aftermarket oil coolers, preferably one with AN fittings and it's own fan so I can remote mount it and a good place to tap in a fitting or get a powerstroke sandwich mount ( I think I already welded an 8an fitting for a return in the pan, I'll have to look so just an out would probably work )
I have my oil temp gauge in the pan and was noticing the temps on the way from AR to CA grossing 18k last week and it was obvious that I was pushing my rad cooling capacity taking heat off the oil on long grades. I've never run into that at home in the Ozarks where the pulls are steep and short. out here the oil starts getting REAL hot and the coolant has to deal with it and it starts pushing the boundries on some long grades. If the coolant wasn't having to deal with all that excess oil heat it would be freed up to keep the engine cooler. As it is I was pounding those grades pretty hard in the middle of the day, in some high heat in August so I certainly can't complain, but a little extra margin of safety would make me feel better on the way back.

 

[idiabuse]

Anyone got any good recomendations for some aftermarket oil coolers, preferably one with AN fittings and it's own fan so I can remote mount it and a good place to tap in a fitting or get a powerstroke sandwich mount ( I think I already welded an 8an fitting for a return in the pan, I'll have to look so just an out would probably work )
I have my oil temp gauge in the pan and was noticing the temps on the way from AR to CA grossing 18k last week and it was obvious that I was pushing my rad cooling capacity taking heat off the oil on long grades. I've never run into that at home in the Ozarks where the pulls are steep and short. out here the oil starts getting REAL hot and the coolant has to deal with it and it starts pushing the boundries on some long grades. If the coolant wasn't having to deal with all that excess oil heat it would be freed up to keep the engine cooler. As it is I was pounding those grades pretty hard in the middle of the day, in some high heat in August so I certainly can't complain, but a little extra margin of safety would make me feel better on the way back.

What is the actual temps, you have OEM gauges or mechanical?
I have always found that the Evans coolant will cool off if you slow
down or even stop the vehicle.
I would find that 60 miles of towing at 70mph would bring the engine to it's
maximum temps around 240F and of course I would normally be one squirmy guy in the seat.
But those temps are normal for our engines using the Evans coolant.

I dont sweat the elevated oil temps, The AMSOIL has at least 150F worth additional temps over the competition.

I would like to add the same oil cooler as I use for the transmission, B&M 28,000 GVWR cooler, and tap into the OEM oil cooler and return that oil to the pan as you mentioned.

I dont see doing that anytime soon though, but definatelly a good idea.



Since you are using a bypass filter you could tap into the feed for the bypass to route to the cooler and back to your oil pan.
Dont know where you have your bypass mounted.
Know Im thinking of adding a cooler as well, I have plenty of coolers and AN fittings.

Bypassed oil headed to the filter is slowed down so the oil that is in the cooler will have time to really cool down, and will not interfere with the bypass system.

reasearch and development what it boils down to

Javier

 

[OB_WAN]

For those looking for a cheap alternate. If you go down to the local pick-n-pull, pop the hood on volvos and mercedes. might be primarily on turbo versions, can't remember.

next to the radiator you'll find something that looks like a small radiator. This is an engine oil cooler. Mercedes have a larger cooler(from what I've seen). You can take it home for ~$40 or less, flush it and tap it in to your oiling system. Oil pressure is low enough that you can use standard barbed hose connections if needed.

I have a volvo oil cooler running as a transmission cooler in an offroad vehicle and it works great. I run it in front of the radiator to pick up airflow. Even crawling super slow it helps with cooling.

Just a suggestion.

 

[pybyr]

( I think I already welded an 8an fitting for a return in the pan, I'll have to look so just an out would probably work ).

Please tell me more about how you welded a fitting into the pan.

I want to put an oil filtering centrifuge in as an additional bypass filter (have the centrifuge already) but the main sticking point is not having a big enough port, low enough, to return the oil out of the CF down into the sump.

Were you able to weld in the fitting without pulling the pan, or is this something you did while the engine was out or the pan was off anyways for something else?

Any other suggestions (on a low point to return oil) welcomed.

Thanks

 

[RLDSL]

What is the actual temps, you have OEM gauges or mechanical?
I have always found that the Evans coolant will cool off if you slow
down or even stop the vehicle.
I would find that 60 miles of towing at 70mph would bring the engine to it's
maximum temps around 240F and of course I would normally be one squirmy guy in the seat.
But those temps are normal for our engines using the Evans coolant.

I dont sweat the elevated oil temps, The AMSOIL has at least 150F worth additional temps over the competition.

I would like to add the same oil cooler as I use for the transmission, B&M 28,000 GVWR cooler, and tap into the OEM oil cooler and return that oil to the pan as you mentioned.

I dont see doing that anytime soon though, but definatelly a good idea.



Since you are using a bypass filter you could tap into the feed for the bypass to route to the cooler and back to your oil pan.
Dont know where you have your bypass mounted.
Know Im thinking of adding a cooler as well, I have plenty of coolers and AN fittings.

Bypassed oil headed to the filter is slowed down so the oil that is in the cooler will have time to really cool down, and will not interfere with the bypass system.

reasearch and development what it boils down to

Javier

Oil was getting up over 300-325 f in the pan before it hit the stock cooler. Running 15w-40 diesel marine it has a flash point of around 460 deg f but still, that's WAY higher than I wanted to see. It's going to shorten the service life something fierce abusing it like that. I was letting the water get right up to 240 before backing out of it and dropping a half a gear or a gear, that doesn't scare me with Evans.I know Im not going to hurt anything in that department, but I can't let the oil break down and I can't let the EGT's get too high. I have Isspro gauges all through. and I watch them like a hawk.

 

[RLDSL]

For those looking for a cheap alternate. If you go down to the local pick-n-pull, pop the hood on volvos and mercedes. might be primarily on turbo versions, can't remember.

next to the radiator you'll find something that looks like a small radiator. This is an engine oil cooler. Mercedes have a larger cooler(from what I've seen). You can take it home for ~$40 or less, flush it and tap it in to your oiling system. Oil pressure is low enough that you can use standard barbed hose connections if needed.

I have a volvo oil cooler running as a transmission cooler in an offroad vehicle and it works great. I run it in front of the radiator to pick up airflow. Even crawling super slow it helps with cooling.

Just a suggestion.

Those are good coolers, I have a few at home( I used to work on those critters ) Turbo volvos have some nice ones, but I need the big sucker with it's own fan. I went by PAW today and ordered one with an6 fittings to tap in to teh oil cooler header and back to the pan along with a new 16" pusher fan to replace my 10' job I use for my AC to help with the low speed cooling

 

[RLDSL]

Please tell me more about how you welded a fitting into the pan.

I want to put an oil filtering centrifuge in as an additional bypass filter (have the centrifuge already) but the main sticking point is not having a big enough port, low enough, to return the oil out of the CF down into the sump.

Were you able to weld in the fitting without pulling the pan, or is this something you did while the engine was out or the pan was off anyways for something else?

Any other suggestions (on a low point to return oil) welcomed.

Thanks

I had the pan off while rebuilding the engine, I suppose it could be done on the truck but it would be a hassle, you would have a time cleaning the shavings when drilling the hole. Summit sells some weld up bungs in assorted AN fitting sizes. Best to braze them on , electric welding usually leads to pinholes, the difference in metal thickness is tricky
Depending on how much volume the centerfuge processes, you might be able to rig a return through the side of the dipstick tube, but thats a very big if. I've done that on breather setups before.

 

[OLDBULL8]

360F isn't unusual in the pan with what you were doing. Dyno testing the 460, the oil temp off the cylinders ran as high as 390F -400F, that was running the engine wide open under full load, stopped only for oil changes, and ran the engine for self destruction test. Can't remember how long they ran but it was a long time before they blew up. Used to have a picture of the dyno window cracked, they had five layers of glass 3/4" apart.

Look under the PSD forum for the adapter.

 

[Devilish]

What about a cooler can? Coil some metal tubing in a can and run coolant through the can. You could even run an enclosed coolant system using a high flow electric fuel pump and a remote mount heater core or ac condensor.

 

[Devilish]

Even a remote filter setup would help and keep the oil cleaner

 

[Black dawg]

so you had to back out of it to keep under 240 even with the rodney red?

 

[icanfixall]

Using any of the header plugs for an oil supply is directing dirty oil from the filter supply. Can you run that amount of unrestricted supply away from the filter and still have enough for the motor.., I don't know. At 3000 rpm the pump is pushing 18 gallons per minute. Hope this helps some. Maybe an orffice in in order here.....

 

[RLDSL]

Using any of the header plugs for an oil supply is directing dirty oil from the filter supply. Can you run that amount of unrestricted supply away from the filter and still have enough for the motor.., I don't know. At 3000 rpm the pump is pushing 18 gallons per minute. Hope this helps some. Maybe an orffice in in order here.....

I got to thinking about that ( after ordering an elbow to tap into the header . My dingbat alarm started going off. I had better tap into my turbo feed line instead. I'ts already an An-6 so I'll be able to tap right in

 

[RLDSL]

so you had to back out of it to keep under 240 even with the rodney red?

Grossing around 18000 pounds in over 100 deg heat out in the Mojave desert on these endless grades in the middle of the afternoon. A time of day back when I was a kid that nobody in their right mind crossed that desert in a vehicle in August, let alone one loaded down like that. But I needed to get to my niece's wedding so I was pushing ahead, otherwise I would have waited till after dusk like a sane person to make that crossing...Oh, and that was with both AC units on, we weren't exactly suffering I could have shut the AC down and made it ride on up a lot easier on the temps but with three young'uns in the back, have to make compromises.

 

[idiabuse]

Oil was getting up over 300-325 f in the pan before it hit the stock cooler. Running 15w-40 diesel marine it has a flash point of around 460 deg f but still, that's WAY higher than I wanted to see. It's going to shorten the service life something fierce abusing it like that. I was letting the water get right up to 240 before backing out of it and dropping a half a gear or a gear, that doesn't scare me with Evans.I know Im not going to hurt anything in that department, but I can't let the oil break down and I can't let the EGT's get too high. I have Isspro gauges all through. and I watch them like a hawk.

be glad the AME is there at 325F holding steady and staying a lubricant.
Just like the Evans has it's saftey margin, no boilover, the AME was intended
for extreem enviroment.
Turbine engines have oil sump temperatures running about 100F more at operating temps than gas/diesel engines.
Amsoil was built using turbine engine lubricant technology adapted for automotive use.

I have demonstrated with a propane stove and a stainless bowl how AME will handle 500F+ temperatures without catching fire or sludging up.
Where as conventional diesel oil lights on fire at 340F

Javier