Aftermarket All Aluminum Radiator?

Titojeep

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I just had to replace mine as well. After reading all the great info on this site from most of you, I had to make a quick decision. Interestingly enough, I found out that Autozone has an alluminum radiator for our truck that's NOT stamped Alluminum. Heavy duty thick welds on the tank, cap neck, and bungs. The cap neck is a thick machined piece and the thing only cost $305 and was instock in local warehouse. It's the same height, but slighly narrower and slightly thinner than the stock one but it has 5 cores instead of 4 and it has 16 fins per inch as recommended by many on this site. I'm in Hotlanta where we've had record heat this last week and I've run this thing with A/C at highway speeds, and in stopped traffic and so far temp hasn't gone above the center of the "o" in "NORMAL". I drove about 10 miles in my home town with A/C on, parked it, left it running for about 20 minutes, opened the hood and shot the return hose with the IR gun and showed 174. Ambient temp was 90 outside. If anything changes I'll re-post, but so far so good.
 

pennsylvaniabo

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I just had to replace mine as well. After reading all the great info on this site from most of you, I had to make a quick decision. Interestingly enough, I found out that Autozone has an alluminum radiator for our truck that's NOT stamped Alluminum. Heavy duty thick welds on the tank, cap neck, and bungs. The cap neck is a thick machined piece and the thing only cost $305 and was instock in local warehouse. It's the same height, but slighly narrower and slightly thinner than the stock one but it has 5 cores instead of 4 and it has 16 fins per inch as recommended by many on this site. I'm in Hotlanta where we've had record heat this last week and I've run this thing with A/C at highway speeds, and in stopped traffic and so far temp hasn't gone above the center of the "o" in "NORMAL". I drove about 10 miles in my home town with A/C on, parked it, left it running for about 20 minutes, opened the hood and shot the return hose with the IR gun and showed 174. Ambient temp was 90 outside. If anything changes I'll re-post, but so far so good.

Have a pn#
 

greg986547

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I just had to replace mine as well. After reading all the great info on this site from most of you, I had to make a quick decision. Interestingly enough, I found out that Autozone has an alluminum radiator for our truck that's NOT stamped Alluminum. Heavy duty thick welds on the tank, cap neck, and bungs. The cap neck is a thick machined piece and the thing only cost $305 and was instock in local warehouse. It's the same height, but slighly narrower and slightly thinner than the stock one but it has 5 cores instead of 4 and it has 16 fins per inch as recommended by many on this site. I'm in Hotlanta where we've had record heat this last week and I've run this thing with A/C at highway speeds, and in stopped traffic and so far temp hasn't gone above the center of the "o" in "NORMAL". I drove about 10 miles in my home town with A/C on, parked it, left it running for about 20 minutes, opened the hood and shot the return hose with the IR gun and showed 174. Ambient temp was 90 outside. If anything changes I'll re-post, but so far so good.

I'm interested in the part number as well....Have an '87 6.9 thats in need of a new rad
 

HuskerCoalRoll

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Give everyone an update: Found a used radiator on Craigslist over in Lincoln. Picked it up from an old farmer for $95 (he was parting out an 89). Took it to the radiator shop, they hot tanked it and pressure checked it, all was good. Mounted the dual electric fans on it last night and sat it back in place in the truck. Have to plumb in the new coolant filter this weekend, wire the fans and relays up. Add some coolant and away we go! Hope everyone has a great weekend!
 

Goose_ss4

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evans waterless coolant

what do guys think about running evan waterless coolant in a RED aluminum raidiator? they seem to think it is the **** for all the late model diesels.
 

icanfixall

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Evans waterless coolant is the best coolant you can run in these diesels. It wont boil and you run zero pressure on the system so all the hot hoses will last longer. Ever notice its the radiater hot return hose or the hot supply hose to the heater that blows out....:sly
 

Goose_ss4

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what's the benefit of run zero pressure? does it run cooler?
 

RLDSL

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Is electrolysis a problem in aluminum rads in our trucks?

That can depend on the coolant you are running and or scas used and water mineral content., it's a mixed bag. I'm running the Evans and my aluminum rad is squeeky clean inside
 

RLDSL

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what's the benefit of run zero pressure? does it run cooler?

It takes the stress off your hoses and solder joints, gaskets, well, EVERYTHING, then combine that with a 375 deg boiling point and if you ever have a problem you've got PLENTY of time to get pulled over without hurting anything.
Like everyone else, I used to run regular coolant, then one nice winter day I was driving back from Canada in one of my beautiful diesel cars along the NY throughway with temps in the low teens and snowing coming up to the buffalo tollgate and all the sudden a thermostat stuck closed ( heck the thing had probably been closed for the last couple of hours with the cold air running over the engine, but the slowing down for the tollboth suddenly built up underhood temps), temp gauge pegged and before I could get it over to the shoulder and the key turned off , the steam was flying out from under the hood. Hose was blown. Got towed into a motel near a parts store and got a hose and some stop leak and gave it a shot but only got anotehr 40 miles. Head gasket was gone. This is not a vehicle that can be repaired by just anyone ( back home the dealer used to send them to me and I have the only full set of tools and books in a three state area for them) so I had to rent a uhaul truck and car trailer to get it home to the tune of over 3 grand by the time it was all said and done ( and before someone says . he you could have got it hauled for less,,BZZZT WRONG,, First the local tow company claimed to have no long haul contacts but would haul it for $4 a mile both ways..plus lodging :backoff I was stuck at the only offramp on the turnpike and motel with no internet access and trying to talk my wife through finding my hauler contacts on my computer at home over the phone almost wound up with a trip to judge Whopner :eek: It was cheaper and easier to just rent the friggen uhaul -cuss )... then I had to rebuild the thing.

THAT is when I went on a hunt for something better. I just KNEW that there had to be a better alternative than something that kept you on the verge of disaster at all times, which is exactly what ALL standard coolants do.
Then I found Evans.. well, it's good enough for all the fancy race cars, ought to be good enough for my vehicles :D

If I had been running Evans that night in Buffalo, my night would have consisted of a pull over to the side of the road, a tow into town for a thermostat and finishing my trip, and since putting all my vehicles on Evans I've been saved a similar fate no less than 3 times. To me running anything other than Evans is simply playing with fire. Plenty of folks will argue to teh death, 'well I've been snuffin' up green stuff forever and aint never had a problem'.. till their engine blows, and then you never hear about that. Every engine will have problems sooner or later, that is a given, the difference is in weather or not those problems result in a minor inconvinience or a rebuild. A few extra bucks spent on this end can save you thousands on the other.
 

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