Yeah meters are real great for timmin if it works and you hook it up right know the exact Cetain of the fule wich will be diffrent every single time you fill up the quality of the fule how to convert thouse to figure out the correct timming. have had your engine apart to confirm the marks on the ballancer are in the right spot, I've heard they can be but have never seen it or met any one who has. Your transfer pump presure and housing presure in the pump are correct and evering thing in the engine is as it would brand spanking new Ie. no carbon deposits perect compresion. so if you know all of that the the meter is a great tool or for a lot less you can time it by ear, I would strongly advise having a Pyrometor installed period regardless of timming method you use or even if you leave it alone because it can save your engine in the event of a injector failure or such, any how timing it by ear also isn't a good method the best way is by sound, smoke, performance and EGTs. First mark the pump this way if you have a oops you can go back to where you started make sure the top IP bolt is tight then lossen the other two then run the engine up to operating temperature and shut it off. Next Loosen the top bolt just enough to be able to turn the pump by prying on it. then turn it passanger side just a hair if you think you need more advance or twards the drivers side if you need to retard it and tighten the top bolt. Next run 12v to the cold start advance solinoid start it if your in the right area it will have a bit of a powerstrokish ratle remove the 12v wire and it should sound like an idi onec you have that down snap the throtle a few times while watching the tail pipe if its turbo'd wou want to see a pff of dark black smoke if N/A you want light grey haze. if there is too much black smoke, you have to use better judgement on this but later you pyro will tell you weather or not your judgement was good, retard the timing a bit and retry the snap test if there is too litle black smoke, turbo'd, advance it a bit and retry. If there is no grey smoke or hardly noticeable amount, N/A, then advance it a hair and retry. Once you get the smoke right drive it see how it feels then go from zero to 60 full throtle and wach the smoke and EGTs if its turbo'd you want it to be black at first but not a howl lot of smoke then once you start building boost it should transition to a light grey haze if its N/A it should give a dark grey pus as you take off then quickly transition to a light grey haze. The EGTs depend on how you drive where you want them most agree that the pistons melt a 1250* and you well build higher EGTs with more wieght in the truck so leave some room since so many factors efect EGTs I fell I should leave it to you to figure out what works best for tuning by EGTs.
I hope this helps and FYI I have some saved round on the reasons the meter is a waste of money.
I hope this helps and FYI I have some saved round on the reasons the meter is a waste of money.
