adding 94 turbo to my truck

[BBB]

i bought a rebuilt 7.3 not sure of year, installed and runs great. i have bought a turbo truck,stripped turbo and parts to add to mine i have 2 questions

should i swap the injectors? ordered the banks downpipe wondered if i should use injectors that came out of turbo engine ran fine.

second question
the oil supply from the sending unit fitting is much smaller on my block will it provide enough oil flow to turbo

thanks

 

[Macrobb]

Generally speaking... no and yea.
The injector(codes) don't matter; it's best to keep a good working set if you already have it in the engine.

The oil supply fitting, even at 1/8 NPT, will supply plenty of oil. Also, the oil pressure gauge should be off the turbo, so you can see from there that you are getting enough.

 

[tbrumm]

The oil supply fitting, even at 1/8 NPT, will supply plenty of oil. Also, the oil pressure gauge should be off the turbo, so you can see from there that you are getting enough.

Since I am also getting ready to install an OEM turbo kit on my N/A truck, I have an interest in this question. So, the N/A blocks were drilled and tapped for a 1/8" npt fitting to supply the oil pressure sender and the turbo blocks were drilled and tapped for 1/4" npt fitting for the oil feed line? I guessed that the blocks were all drilled and tapped 1/4" npt and the difference was in the hexagonal adapter fitting that screws into the block. Below is a pick of the fitting from the turbo motor - haven't looked at the one on the N/A block my truck.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Macrobb]

No, pretty sure that the hole that that part screws into on a N/A motor is a 1/8 NPT thread - that adapter would be different between N/A and Turbo blocks.

 

[79jasper]

That is correct. It's drilled different.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[tbrumm]

Thanks for clearing that up Macrobb and Jasper! So, has anybody drilled out and re-tapped the N/A block for the 1/4" npt fitting with the engine still in the truck, or is it even necessary? Will the 1/8" npt fitting supply enough oil to the turbo using the OEM oil feed tube? If the 1/8" npt fitting is okay, then only an 1/8-1/4" npt adapter would be needed in order to use the OEM oil feed line on an OEM block. Just to throw this question into the mix- Is this undersize fitting perhaps the reason that other aftermarket turbo kits use a braided stainless oil feed hose coming off (I think) one of the oil gallery plugs on the side of the engine?

 

[mblaney]

I recently put a turbo on my NA and the fitting (pictured above) fit fine. Stole it from a turbo block and put directly on the NA.

Maybe double check if there is a bushing reducer in the NA block... My memory is good but short! I definitely did not drill and tap though.

 

[BBB]

thanks that answers my question, now im wondering if i should turn pump up a flat or 2 before i put it on. i replaced the flat down tube with the banks pipe. i am also putting in a pyrometer and boost guage dont want to tear anything up just perk it up.

 

[gnathv]

I know when I took the plug out by the oil cooler to feed my turbo I cleaned it out before I hooked up line to turbo. I had 230,000 miles of crud in the oil galley behind the plug. Look to be sure it’s clear.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Or instead of buying an adapter, you could just remove the brass fitting off of the top of the longer, hex shaped piece and then screw it onto the one on the N/A engine which is already 1/8" NPT. If it makes you feel better about using the 1/8" adapter, then you could carefully driil out the hole SLIGHTLY larger to allow a little more oil volume to flow through it. The biggest issue that I can see with drilling and tapping this oil port is the fact that you'll get a lot of metal shavings down inside thee hole. Then where would they go? directly into your turbo where DON"T want them to go. Remember, this is the highest point in the oiling system and also the farthest away from the filter so the shavings have absolutely zero chance of being aught in the filter before causing damage. The only time I'd say that it's ok to drill and tap this port is when you're rebuilding the engine, before the block goes to a hot tank.

thanks that answers my question, now im wondering if i should turn pump up a flat or 2 before i put it on. i replaced the flat down tube with the banks pipe. i am also putting in a pyrometer and boost guage dont want to tear anything up just perk it up.

Yes. I'd recommend turning the pump up at least one flat. I'd probably go two to start off with.

 

[WIZ-KID]

Dumb idea. But if the donor is a factory turbo engine, why not just swap engines? (Stronger, bigger rods, etc)

 

[79jasper]

Dumb idea. But if the donor is a factory turbo engine, why not just swap engines? (Stronger, bigger rods, etc)

What is it with all the attitudes and sass around here lately?
Those "stronger" parts aren't proven to magically make the engine last longer.
I would say likely the turbo engine was shot. Hence why he pulled the turbo system.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[BBB]

yeah the donor engine was shot but he had just put new turbo and a pump on it not too long ago my engine was rebuilt 25000 milea ago im not a dumb kid hot rodding my pickup wiz bang just would like a kittle extra pull at about 7 psi

 

[WIZ-KID]

I wondered what was up with it. That's a shame because with the turbo block you get the larger oil cooler, I believe the heads have some mods, and whatever. I myself am hoping those differences Ford made do help (like with the bottom end, wrist pins rods) Because real soon here I am going to be rebuilding one of these to put in my '93. Like you I want to build it to adequately pull my 5th wheel. And I think there might have some misunderstanding. I did not mean your idea was dumb, but that my question might seem dumb. Sorry to all if I failed to convey that.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You can use a Factory Turbo oil cooler on any 6.9/7.3 engine. I'm fairly sure that it uses the same end caps as the N/A 7.3 does. There are a lot of people on here who use a turbo on a N/A engine for pulling and don't have a reliability issue. If you really crank out some SERIOUS power, then those extras will most likely help. As for the anodizing on the pistons, it seems like an unfinished thought. I know that the center of the top of the piston is the thinnest part, but apart from something seriously *****, like putting gasoline in the tank, I've seen VERY few pistons that were cracked in the center. The biggest problem that I've seen with pistons and a turbo is burning down the side of the piston tops. This was from engines in trucks with no intercooler and no "properly" mounted EGT probe that ran too high of EGTs. These cylinders also had a lot of wear in them to go along with the burned pistons. I would say that the anodizing is a good idea if it covered the whole piston top, not just most of it. All of the anodized ones that I've seen (in real life or just in pictures) had an unanodized ring around the outside of the tops. In my opinion, it's a waste of money.