94 NA, changed starter, cranks won't start - Update

[Exhumis]

Hi folks,
94 NA with 220k, put in a new db electrical starter, ran and started perfect for a couple days. Have never had an issue with it starting before. Parked it and haven't driven it for a week, went out to start it and she won't start. Spins over fast, have excellent spraying fuel pressure at the Schrader valve. I did notice my tach is only showing 200rpms when I'm cranking. What are you guys thinking? Blown relay somewhere? First time having to diagnose an issue like this.

 

[Selahdoor]

Have you checked the batteries and alternator?

 

[Exhumis]

Have you checked the batteries and alternator?

Batteries were both purchased last year and have 12.6ish volts. Hmm didn't think to check the alternator as the batteries we both at full charge but I guess I could.

 

[Philip1]

Batteries were both purchased last year and have 12.6ish volts. Hmm didn't think to check the alternator as the batteries we both at full charge but I guess I could.

Checking battery voltage without any load wont tell you much about battery condition. The best way to test them is to check voltage under heavy load and with each battery isolated from the other.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[BeastMaster]

". Spins over fast, have excellent spraying fuel pressure at the Schrader valve. "

Geez, maybe the fuel solenoid on the IP isn't happy? Water get into the fuel?

Are your glow plugs happy? ( Do you note their load on the battery, as shown on the voltmeter, when you initiate a cold start?)

This may be as simple as a glow plug relay that still sounds right, but it's contacts have eroded into inoperability, which can happen quite fast. Mine has done that.

I do not believe neither engines nor IP's die like this.

If you have fuel, air, glow plugs hot, and compression, ignition is inevitable.

 

[Exhumis]

". Spins over fast, have excellent spraying fuel pressure at the Schrader valve. "

Geez, maybe the fuel solenoid on the IP isn't happy? Water get into the fuel?

Are your glow plugs happy? ( Do you note their load on the battery, as shown on the voltmeter, when you initiate a cold start?)

This may be as simple as a glow plug relay that still sounds right, but it's contacts have eroded into inoperability, which can happen quite fast. Mine has done that.

I do not believe neither engines nor IP's die like this.

If you have fuel, air, glow plugs hot, and compression, ignition is inevitable.

GP relay is good, just installed a new one last month. Same with new motorcraft glow plugs and connectors. Wait to start comes on, can hear gp relay click and they shut off after about 15 seconds(cold here in VA right now). Metered them just in case and they're getting power. There is a load on the voltmeter, sweeps whne I turn the key like it always does. Shouldn't be water in the fuel, just filled the tank last week from the same place I normally get fuel. Can't rule it out though. I'm going to meter the solenoid tomorrow.

 

[BeastMaster]

Can you tell by ( looking at / the smell of ) the exhaust if fuel is getting into the engine?

What I am getting at is could there be some obstruction in or around the IP that is impeding fuel delivery?

 

[Thewespaul]

When you change the starter did you disconnect the batteries? Could some thing have ground out and burned up a fusible link?

 

[Exhumis]

Can you tell by ( looking at / the smell of ) the exhaust if fuel is getting into the engine?

What I am getting at is could there be some obstruction in or around the IP that is impeding fuel delivery?

No exhaust. It's not even trying to start. But I'll sniff around the tailpipe(queue the jokes) and see if I can smell fuel.

 

[Exhumis]

When you change the starter did you disconnect the batteries? Could some thing have ground out and burned up a fusible link?

Yup, disconnected the batteries. When I reconnected them didn't hear any snap, crackles or pops. And she ran great for a couple days so there's that. I'll check for toasted links though.
That's what's got me so stumped. I literally only disconnected the batteries, swapped the starter and reconnected the batteries. Didn't touch anything else.

 

[franklin2]

You should have lots of white stinky smoke coming from the exhaust pipe. No need to go sniffing around back there, it will be a fairly good white cloud. If you do not have that, you do not have any fuel getting into the engine.

I would check for voltage to the injection pump.

 

[Exhumis]

I kinda figured but wanted to pick you'alls brains. It just had me stumped like what the heck it ran perfect last week. I'll do some testing and report back.

 

[frankenwrench]

Just a suggestion, turn the key on and disconnect the fss on the ip and reconnect and listen for click. If click is heard that rules out the fss. If click is not heard, take a 4 ish ft piece of wire and hold one side on the positive post of one of your batteries and tap the other to the fss spade on the ip. If click is present then then it's wiring/fusible link. If still no click, possible fss issue inside the pump.

 

[Exhumis]

Ok so here's where I'm at, sorry for the delay been raining then sick:
Checked FSS, got the click and good voltage. Load tested batteries, batteries good. Tried to start her again, just lots of cranking and not even an attempt. Puff fizz at the Schrader valve. Thought huh and pulled the filter. Fuel filter is like 1/4 full. While pulling happened to look down and noticed the lift pump appears wet, lines as well so looks like the lift pump died. Is it common for a lift pump to go **** up without warning? Question about pump quality: should I get the Carter, or the Delphi for $10 bux more? Also, a few questions about the fuel filter head. While I have it off I'm going to take care of any possible air intrusion issues so I'll be doing the fuel heater mod. As for the rest of the fittings, what sealant is good to use? When I pulled off the supply and return line fittings there appears to be a red colored sealant on the threads. The Schrader and other fittings had no sealant just wrench tight. Should sealant be added?
Finally, the little black plastic seals/rings on the supply and return lines appear to be leaking as both fittings at the fuel filter head were damp. Is there a way to get new one on past the flare of the line? Thanks for the troubleshooting help guys. Appreciate it.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Finally, the little black plastic seals/rings on the supply and return lines appear to be leaking as both fittings at the fuel filter head were damp. Is there a way to get new one on past the flare of the line?

These are the olives. You can buy new ones from Russ, Mel, and (I believe) Wes. International may still have them too. You will need to remove the old olives before installing the new ones.