'94 IDIT runs rough, low power, nearly overheating after Moose IP

Thewespaul

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It’s possible, but I don’t see it failing and still pumping some oil. Pretty much sounds like an oil squirter issue to me. If your turbo feed line is coming from the factory location it’s coming off the same oil passage as the head plugs, which at this point is your only other location you could check without pulling the engine.
 

IDIBRONCO

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My advice is this. STOP. DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THE ENGINE. CALL PROMAR TO SEE WHAT THEY SAY (not yelling, but trying to stress the importance of this). I've never dealt with Promar so I have no idea how they handle these things. Some places can bee extremely picky about what happens next. I've heard of places that would say "well you tore into it and we can't tell what you may have messed with so there's no warranty". They may want you to tow it to a mechanic of their choice in order to have them tear into it.
 

SLC97SR5

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My advice is this. STOP. DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THE ENGINE. CALL PROMAR TO SEE WHAT THEY SAY (not yelling, but trying to stress the importance of this). I've never dealt with Promar so I have no idea how they handle these things. Some places can bee extremely picky about what happens next. I've heard of places that would say "well you tore into it and we can't tell what you may have messed with so there's no warranty". They may want you to tow it to a mechanic of their choice in order to have them tear into it.

You're right, I sent Promar an email when I discovered it and received a phone call from Mark the President 20 minutes later.

He asked me to try a few things and I sent an email yesterday detailing my findings. He emailed today and said he'd call tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You're right, I sent Promar an email when I discovered it and received a phone call from Mark the President 20 minutes later.

He asked me to try a few things and I sent an email yesterday detailing my findings. He emailed today and said he'd call tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Smart man!
 

SLC97SR5

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I'm trying to do my due diligence and be as informed as possible. I really don't want to remove the engine again.

I would attempt to inspect/replace the oil pump and pickup in frame before pulling the dang engine.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'm trying to do my due diligence and be as informed as possible. I really don't want to remove the engine again.

I would attempt to inspect/replace the oil pump and pickup in frame before pulling the dang engine.
You'll regret that. You have to get the engine up so high that it would be easier to pull it out. Plus it will be easier to pull the pump and pickup tube off with the engine out of the truck. Before the pan comes off in frame, you have to reach inside and drop the pickup tube. From what I've heard, there's not much room to reach between the pan and the block to do this. You do have to remove the radiator fan and shroud, disconnect the radiator hoses, disconnect the feed and return fuel lines, unhook the exhaust, remove the turbo, and probably other things that I've forgotten. By the time that you've done all of this, you almost have the engine ready to come out.
 

SLC97SR5

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I just removed the rear oil cooler header and inspected the psi regulator valve. It looks beautiful and slides smoothly. Dang it.

Promar asked me to start the engine with the header removed. I did and there was a spectacular gush of oil exiting from the oil ports in the oil cooler bundle.

I guess that eliminates the strainer/pickup and oil pump.

I am not sure where to go now. I'm going to remove the turbo oil feed line and look for any obstructions where the tapped hole exits the block.

Unfortunately I've got a heck of a mess under the truck and some work to do before I can start it again.
 

SLC97SR5

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Promar authorized me to troubleshoot as necessary.

They feel like it is one of the under cam front plugs.

Their reasoning is that the psi is so low that a oiler/squirter by itself would not cause a near 0 reading. They feel the cam plug is large enough to be the culprit.

What do you guys think?

If the cam plug is more likely what is the better way to go about it...do the timing cover in frame or pull the engine?
 

Black dawg

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I have seen 2 squirters fall out. Oil pressure was slow to build on a warm engine, but would still read oil 5 psi hot idle and basically full pressure running down the highway. Oil pressure showed normal enough cold to not even notice.
 

Thewespaul

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Yep, I’ve also seen both oil squirters and the cam plug cause oil pressure issues with promar engines, if they think it’s the cam plug you can do that in frame but if that’s not it you’re going to have to pull the engine anyways, so it’s up to you really.
 

Thewespaul

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You could just pull any oil plug out and feed air pressure through that, if you pull the oil feed off you can screw a quick disconnect fitting in (1/4” npt)
 

Black dawg

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I wonder if putting a blowgun (air psi) to the oil passage with the header off would let you hear where the leak is??


I would just go light with the air first, so that oil doesn't get blown out of the squirters….should be able to hear the leak?????
 

SLC97SR5

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Can anyone confirm the size or PN for the oil galley plugs behind the cam gear?

I think they are 1/2".

Dorman 555-074?
 

SLC97SR5

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I took a gamble and stripped down the front of the engine in frame. I really didn't want to remove the engine.

I was greeted by a passenger side oil galley plug that had popped out from behind the cam gear.
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