90 F350 Build Thread (Sort Of)

[Giddy-Up]

This isn't really going to be a build thread so much as a place for me to put pictures and document the changes I make over time. As it sits it's a rust free 2wd EC/LB dually with a 7.3/E4OD 4.10 gears the body has 127,000, motor has 60,000. My plan is to make it into a reliable/comfortable daily driver that I can use to pull around car trailers when needed. So far I've put over 1,000 miles on it in the first week just to get the feel of it and find out what needs changing/fixing.

My list so far:
Install factory box/fix wiring
Bucket seats from a bronco
Serpentine belt
Sound deaden the cab
Swap in 94 frame
4wd conversion
Build custom bumpers
Turbo/intercool


I got the old flat bed ripped off and am working on repairing the butchered wiring harness along with installing a B&W hitch. The beat up drop bumper is getting replaced by a factory chrome contour bumper and custom hitch, until I have the time and money to build proper bumpers. I'm going to look at a D60 for it this weekend I was told it is a 97 complete hub to hub, sway bar to steering don't know yet if it's the right gear ratio.

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[IDIoit]

regarding sound deadening.
boy does it make a difference.
i used heater dukt insulation.
1/2 the price of dynomat or any other "automotive" sound deadening

works just as well
i lined the interior of mine with it, and i love it!

if that D-60 is more than 1k, i would suggest looking for a parts truck.
i needed a d-60 and found a 460 powered F350 for cheap with a bad engine.
plus parts for days!!!

good luck!

 

[Giddy-Up]

He's asking 1200 it's definitely higher than I want to go but they don't come up often around here, I've been looking since I bought my 83. About a month ago there was one for 900 but I didn't have the money then, and right now I still have the money from selling my 83. If it's how he says it is and has 4.10s I'll probably just spend the money though I know I'll regret it.

 

[IDIoit]

i dont care where you are, a D-60 is scarce and always come at a pretty penny.
deals come around. it all boils down to what you got and how bad you want it...

 

[junk]

Yeah if the axle isn't all wore out 1200 sounds fair. Make sure you get all the springs and misc brackets. They aren't the easiest to find.

 

[Giddy-Up]

Well I guess I wanted bad enough ended up paying $1200 but I got about a $150 worth of other parts thrown in. The axle itself does have 4.10 gears so it'll match my rear and it came with the trackbar/frame bracket and the drivers side lower U-bolt plate both of which I intend to sell. Unfortunately it did not come with the sway bar so I'll have to try and track one down, the brakes look brand new just have surface rust from sitting. I got it under my 94 frame with F250 springs for now till I have the money for a PMF reverse shackle kit. I stuck a D44 I have in the pic just for a size comparison.

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[IDIoit]

Well I guess I wanted bad enough ended up paying $1200 but I got about a $150 worth of other parts thrown in. The axle itself does have 4.10 gears so it'll match my rear and it came with the trackbar/frame bracket and the drivers side lower U-bolt plate both of which I intend to sell. Unfortunately it did not come with the sway bar so I'll have to try and track one down, the brakes look brand new just have surface rust from sitting. I got it under my 94 frame with F250 springs for now till I have the money for a PMF reverse shackle kit. I stuck a D44 I have in the pic just for a size comparison.

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looks like your frame is bent from that angle

if you find a track bar, cool... if not, speedwaymotors.com sells inexpensive pan hard bars with rod ends. for a little more they will make you a custom length one.

 

[Giddy-Up]

The frame does have a bend under the cab on the drivers side that's throwing everything off. I was waiting untill I got both axles bolted in before I took it to the local body shop to be pulled straight.

I have the track bar and it's bracket but don't plan on using it. It's the sway bar that I'm looking for.

 

[Giddy-Up]

Two steps foward one step back got my box mounted up for the second time had the wrong goose neck hitch the first time. Still only have one fuel tank that can be used, and I almost ripped one of my new tow mirrors off on friday night so now I have to get my door fixed. Also removed the back seat which had some sort of homemade riser built out of pressure treated lumber. And for you sharp eyed people, yes that is duck tape on the lower legs of the mirrors I was trying to protect the paint untill the body shop got more of the threaded mirror rivets in.

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[Giddy-Up]

Little bit of progress this weekend, got some replacement cab lights installed, soldered in a non-melted headlight switch connector and fixed all my burnt out bulbs just need to get the dually lights installed under the tailgate. I also for the first time I have a fully functioning trailer harness and brake controller. Tonight I managed to get my bed caps installed and start on a headache rack.

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[Giddy-Up]

Progress is slow, but I got a new project that I'll fix up and sell to fund my ZF-5 swap. It's a 86 f-150 4x4 4-speed with a 300, just a simple, low mile, minimal rust truck. Just going to do a good cleaning and slap on a 4 barrel and better flowing exhaust.

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[Giddy-Up]

Headache rack is done until I get lights, and got the diesel cross member installed on my new frame

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[laserjock]

Welds are pretty. It shouldn't go anywhere. Im probably behind, but why the new frame? 2wd to 4wd is not too hard. Problems with your frame?

Sorry if I'm late to the party on the questions.

 

[Giddy-Up]

Easier to mount a RSK to the 92+ frames and I already had it. Also it allows me to get the super duty suspension, air bags, traction bars and such installed before I disable my dually. The plan is to have it finished mid to late summer of next year.

 

[Giddy-Up]

Just figured I'd add these pictures to show cross member differences, when I first realized my 94 frame had the wrong cross member I could barely find any info about the differences so hopefully this helps someone. The cross members are held on by 13 rivets, and about 10 inches of weld per side from the factory plus the 302/351/460 motor perches are riveted to them and bolted to the frame so it's not real simple to replace one. Unless you work in a welding shop, then it's easy.

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