84 6.9 wacky throttle issues./ Electric diesel fuel pump mod

Shawn MacAnanny

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That pump and filter combo on the right is $185, the pre filter was like $30, the stainless line is 5ft stainless Jic 5 and connections to to injection pump plus fittings were about $100 but you could just run rubber hard line in place of them. The connections on the filters are #5 1/2-20. I just added a tee at pump to auto bled air and ordered a swag lock nupro 5psi poppet valve to keep 5psi back pressure on pump to prevent it from losing pressure from returning too much
 

84diesel6.9nonturbo

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Yeah thats what i think i want to do once she makes me some money. For now ill go back and check my fuel line work and bypass the water filter. Do you know how to adjust the vacuum fuel pressure valve on the injection pump? I know how to loosen up the 4 bolts but is tilting it forward going to give you a harder shift or softer shift? My truck has a c6 automatic transmission.
 

84diesel6.9nonturbo

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I found that Tilting the vacuum a bit forward on the injecton pump makes a harder shift, tilt it back a bit for a softer shift. (Only applies to automatic tranmission trucks.) My issue is still that my truck has NO towing power. Ive deleted... the tank selector valve... the fuel warmer... the water seperator... the lift pump... the lower hard fuel lines -(under the block)... After all that i have solved my air intrusion issues and have gained no power. I have cleaned my valves and put in a 7.3 return line kit.... could be an issue??? Larger size lines???, same o rings, same copper washers, it all fits nicely. No leaks. I have some inline fuel filters where i deleted my old stuff for now so i can see if i have bubbles. (Ill replace the h20 flter and warmer once i can get her to tow my backhoe up hills. )*** im not off a tooth on timing, i checked my gear timing without issues. If anyone needs help with that i can walk you through it. If you pull off the upper gear housing (4 easy bolts) and dont mark it first your timing will be all screwed up. Yesterday i pulled the injectors out and added a shim to each one (inside the injector, between the bushings, above the spring. ) and put them back in. It sounded a little stronger and had a bit more pronounced diesel clatter (normal for 6.9s)... but It didnt help the power. Then i pulled the injectors out to check them on the drivers side and noticed chunks of pressed carbon on the copper washers where they seat in the bores on three. but the back one, copper washer and bore was cleaner and the injector was noticabley hotter.. and it was the only dry one. So i figured maybe its the dirty bores? I cleaned them by spinning a short dull chissle in the bore then a flathead wrapped in micro cloth. I blew air into the bores to clear out debris from the bores after cleaning them. After that i started it up and wow it got a louder more consistant clatter! Still has no power? I am going to try moving the ip timing around. The lower bolts were loose on it and one was missing a washer and unknowingly threading halfway into the ip housing hole. Now i have to try to adjust timing i guess? Maybe try to quiet it down a bit? I have no money to spend on this at all so any ear timing help would be great. Also, does anyone know roughly how far from the top my fuel screw in the pump should be? 2 or three flats back? Thanks in advance! I love this site!
 

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