mexicanjoe
Full Access Member
Mine leaks a quart every 500 miles, and I dont charge my employer for seal coating the parking lot with 15w40 Rotella! 
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7.3 IDI excessive oil usage
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Cant Write
Full Access Member
I usually order it online, but have noticed local auto parts stores are starting to carry it.
Check the website for usage, but I’m pretty sure fuel only and NOT to put it in the crank case. I just went and read the label on my can and it mentions only to mix with fuel or run directly through IP.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I don't know for sure, but here's my take on it. First, remember that we're talking about dealing with the government here. It's a government agency that does the testing to enforce government rules. My feelings is that they're looking for signs of non taxed fuel being used. We all know that it's red. All they're looking for is a reddish tint. If they find it, you'll be charged with running fuel that hasn't had road taxes paid on it. I'd bet money that it would be up to you to prove that it's actually fuel out of a pump and had those taxes paid. It would be an uphill battle at the least. All the government wants is to get your tax money. They don't care about testing to see what's in your fuel. That would be how they pull people over and that person leaves with a fine. It would take time and money to test every sample of fuel that they pull, which the government doesn't want to spend. They only want quick, easy money and that's the fine. You'd have to leave your vehicle parked until that test came back negative and none of us want that. That's why I won't put anything that's red in my tanks. Right or wrong, I still won't take the chance.
ttman4
Last Nite's Dream..
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Well I was poking round on internet & found some Liqui Moly Diesel Purge here on EBAY:
Diesel Purge-Liqui Moly | eBay
Explore a wide range of our Diesel Purge-Liqui Moly selection. Find top brands, exclusive offers, and unbeatable prices on eBay. Shop now for fast shipping and easy returns!
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So @Cant Write & you others that have tried it, have you noticed any difference afterwards using it on our IDI's?
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
ROCK HARVEY
Full Access Member
I can vouch for the diesel purge for cleaning the IP. I had an issue where my truck would die when I let off the gas after accelerating or just revving the engine. I read that this tends to happen when your metering valve gets gummed up in the IP. I ordered two cans of diesel purge off Amazon, and ran it through the engine with the feed and IP return lines routed to the jug. I ran the engine till it had burned it all, then let it set overnight. The next day I fired it up and the problem was gone. I didn’t pull any injectors to see if it had cleaned the carbon off the tip, but I’m told that it helps with that too. I would not recommend mixing it with your oil, but I bet it could help free a stuck ring if you pour it into a cylinder. I would probably change the oil shortly after.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
I have never used it on my IDI, only on my ALH TDI’s (2003 VW)Well I was poking round on internet & found some Liqui Moly Diesel Purge here on EBAY:
Diesel Purge-Liqui Moly | eBay
Explore a wide range of our Diesel Purge-Liqui Moly selection. Find top brands, exclusive offers, and unbeatable prices on eBay. Shop now for fast shipping and easy returns!www.ebay.com
So @Cant Write & you others that have tried it, have you noticed any difference afterwards using it on our IDI's?
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Linctex
Registered User
I have the SAME problem.
Engine runs smooth and has good compression, almost no blow-by.
Started about 2 weeks ago, using a quart every 100 miles....
then within days, started chugging it. 3 quarts in 100 miles 12 days ago, then a gallon every 80 miles...
My last trip home took over 2 gallons to do 100 miles.
I have another engine to swap in... Then will see what this one looks like inside once I tear it down.
Engine runs smooth and has good compression, almost no blow-by.
Started about 2 weeks ago, using a quart every 100 miles....
then within days, started chugging it. 3 quarts in 100 miles 12 days ago, then a gallon every 80 miles...
My last trip home took over 2 gallons to do 100 miles.
I have another engine to swap in... Then will see what this one looks like inside once I tear it down.
TheBirdman
Registered User
post pics of the cylinder wall when you do
DougBoy66
Full Access Member
Guys, I haven't dealt with a lot of different issues with these motor so far but, it seems like if a turbo seal were leaking by, is there a path for it to feed oil through the turbo and the intake? Seems like you could go through alot of oil that way. Assuming the engine was turbo charged
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes it certainly could.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Take the intake off the turbo and feel the up and down and side play on the impellers/Shaft.
If the bearing goes and oil then gets into the Exhaust side, you can get a good fire going on inside it.
Blew a Turbo on a Dump Truck hauling a load of hot Asphalt for a paving job. Climbing up a log steep winding mountain road. heard this pop sound, all the gauges looked good, Pyrometer etc...
looked in the mirror and everything behind the truck (Both lanes) were buried in white smoke.
Pulled over and stopped and so did the engine. popped the Hood and the Turbo was a ball of fire, the cast iron side of the turbo had a hole melted in it and the Down pipe was glowing red.
Goat
If the bearing goes and oil then gets into the Exhaust side, you can get a good fire going on inside it.
Blew a Turbo on a Dump Truck hauling a load of hot Asphalt for a paving job. Climbing up a log steep winding mountain road. heard this pop sound, all the gauges looked good, Pyrometer etc...
looked in the mirror and everything behind the truck (Both lanes) were buried in white smoke.
Pulled over and stopped and so did the engine. popped the Hood and the Turbo was a ball of fire, the cast iron side of the turbo had a hole melted in it and the Down pipe was glowing red.
Goat
WrenchWhore
Full Access Member
He stated in his 2nd post that it's NA.
TheBirdman
Registered User
if I were a betting man, Id wager the cylinder walls are wiped mirror smooth from excessive idle hours. Pretty common in old diesels, especially in cold climates or ambulance use.
Sounds like my 91… only 40k miles, but all the idle hours…
I didn't realize this thread had gotten all this mileage. I was getting emails when a new post went up, but haven't gotten any. Been meaning to update everyone.
After the Seafoam soaking I put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in and ran it, then added another. Ran the truck hard. For a while it seemed to be using a little less oil, but is back to 2 gallons to a-hundred miles now.
The compression, as I said at the start, is pretty good, but 310 in one cylinder. I bought a new Motorcraft CDR, but haven't put it in as I'm sure that's not it. There's no oil in the intake and I've completely plugged that opening in the past with no difference.
I could keep trying these other products. Honestly I don't have faith. I could try some Liquid Moly Diesel Purge and other stuff that's been mentioned, but my guess is, with the compression as good as it is, it's probably glazed cylinder walls.
Still doesn't quite make sense to me the compression would be as good as it is ~ 385 to 460 except for the one 310, the engine runs perfectly except having to crank it quite a bit when it's cold ~ yet just the glazing or oil rings could allow that much oil to get by, but I'm understanding that could be the case.
Years ago I tried sprinkling a water mixture with Borax, I think, into the intake on my 6.9 and didn't find it to make any difference. If there were a way to rough up the cylinder walls without a teardown... but I think at this point the shortcuts aren't going to work and it's a matter of doing the real work. Wish there were a shortcut and maybe I'll try some more additives before giving up, but that's where things are now.
After the Seafoam soaking I put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in and ran it, then added another. Ran the truck hard. For a while it seemed to be using a little less oil, but is back to 2 gallons to a-hundred miles now.
The compression, as I said at the start, is pretty good, but 310 in one cylinder. I bought a new Motorcraft CDR, but haven't put it in as I'm sure that's not it. There's no oil in the intake and I've completely plugged that opening in the past with no difference.
I could keep trying these other products. Honestly I don't have faith. I could try some Liquid Moly Diesel Purge and other stuff that's been mentioned, but my guess is, with the compression as good as it is, it's probably glazed cylinder walls.
Still doesn't quite make sense to me the compression would be as good as it is ~ 385 to 460 except for the one 310, the engine runs perfectly except having to crank it quite a bit when it's cold ~ yet just the glazing or oil rings could allow that much oil to get by, but I'm understanding that could be the case.
Years ago I tried sprinkling a water mixture with Borax, I think, into the intake on my 6.9 and didn't find it to make any difference. If there were a way to rough up the cylinder walls without a teardown... but I think at this point the shortcuts aren't going to work and it's a matter of doing the real work. Wish there were a shortcut and maybe I'll try some more additives before giving up, but that's where things are now.
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