7.3 idi build for my S1654

[IDI-IKE]

How does it perform with only getting half the thermal energy?

It will have all the exhaust going though the turbo. It will have a crossover pipe between the 2 original manifold outlets just like a 6.5 gm or the turbo engineering Rajay turbo kit in my 7.3 bullnose. With the SAE bell housing and motor mounts in the way in the rear a valley mount turbo is definitely something that would be a pita and require a ton more fab and custom manifolds/headers to get that all done. I'll be wrapping the crossover pipe in header wrap to help keep the heat in it as well as the down pipe to keep under hood temps lower

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Just because that RayJay turbo is so different and welded right to the header, I wonder if there would be any performance gain if you connected BOTH ends of each header together. So 2 crossover pipes.

I'm sure it wouldn't be much, and only at upper RPMs, but I do wonder.

 

[IDI-IKE]

Just because that RayJay turbo is so different and welded right to the header, I wonder if there would be any performance gain if you connected BOTH ends of each header together. So 2 crossover pipes.

I'm sure it wouldn't be much, and only at upper RPMs, but I do wonder.

Would have to get creative to do that and allot more cast iron welding since these are factory cast manifolds. I'm sure it probably won't be as efficant as a valley mount with 2 up pipes. Now on the Rajay style kit in my bullnose the turbo flange is near the very front of the drivers exhaust manifold making 7 cylinders cram all the exhaust up to the front of the driver side. On the stuff I built for this international the exhaust already dumped out the front side on the passenger side but the exhaust manifold swooped downwards leaving the bolts on the top side. I used a driver side pickup manifold on the passenger side and the downspout came out in the same spot as the international manifold on the front end and the turbo flange is mounted allot closer to that so its in-between 3 exhaust ports on one side and 5 on the other side so its allot better balanced in-between so my thought behind that is it should breathe a little easier.

 

[nelstomlinson]

Isaac, are you going to run the crossover pipe under the front of the engine?

 

[IDI-IKE]

Isaac, are you going to run the crossover pipe under the front of the engine?

Yes I will be doing that. It will be wrapped in header tape to help retain heat. Driveshaft is in I took it for a spin naturally asperated because it does not have exhaust yet.

 

[IDI-IKE]

Well its been a hot minute since I've been here been stupid busy with other stuff. Got the exhaust done awhile ago got permanent registration on it, I've put 100 miles on it so far according to the new odometer. It has quite a bit of power its actually kinda "stupid" it is for having so much power in a medium duty truck being they are all gutless turds old or newer for the most part. My biggest issue is at peak torque rpm I'm almost positive it slips the clutch if I let it but not having a tach makes it hard to tell. Going to guess off sound it will slip between 1700-2400rpm if the turbo comes live and your into it. Hoping the clutch can hang in for time being i have around 15 farm tractors to move I'm just going to be easy on it. I haven't loaded it yet but pulling my 5000lb gooseneck around the country block I can't even feel it back there at all. Friday I'll be hauling my buddys 2nd gen dodge roller to the next town over that will be its first "load" then we'll see how the clutch does with some added weight. I put together a quick video

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[ihc1470]

What type of clutch push or pull? Is the free play correct?

 

[IDI-IKE]

What type of clutch push or pull? Is the free play correct?

It's push yes has plenty of play.

 

[ihc1470]

Is it a flat flywheel or steeped?

 

[IDI-IKE]

Is it a flat flywheel or steeped?

Flat flywheel

 

[ihc1470]

Well there goes all those ideas! If the flywheel is truely flat and not warped and you have free play I would suspect you have some weak springs in the pressure plate. What else could it be?

 

[IDI-IKE]

Well there goes all those ideas! If the flywheel is truely flat and not warped and you have free play I would suspect you have some weak springs in the pressure plate. What else could it be?

I had the flywheel surfaced on it so its definitely flat and good surface. The truck had a 13 inch ceramic 4 puck clutch that was original and quite worn with a 500ftlb rating. The 3208 I pulled the transmission from had a brand new 14 inch organic disc clutch but it was twin disc and the flywheel was dished. Well the medium duty idi flywheel is flat not dished with the fingers for the intermediate plate. I opted to use the new 14 inch because I had it and you'd think new and bigger is better right? What i did to use it was removed the intermediate plate and second disc and I'm using it as a single disc. It compressed the springs good when I tightened the pressure plate and it works great other than I can slip it. The pedal pushes easier than the original clutch. I'm not sure what route to go if I get a stock 500ftlb ceramic button clutch to go back in for what it came with and hope its underrated enough to handle 700ftlb give or take or if I should try to take the pressure plate out I'm using now and see if I can add some more springs or put heavier springs in it or my third option would be to contact a place that deals with custom clutches if I can't find something rated higher off the shelf.

 

[ihc1470]

I would think it is the pressure plate myself. All the twin disk clutch's I have been around have been pull style and recessed flywheel. In looking on the web tonight I see they do make twin plate for a flat faced flywheel and they look to be push style. When specing clutchs you want to look at the amount of surface area. Sometimes 13 inch is better than a bigger one crazy as that sounds.

 

[IDI-IKE]

I would think it is the pressure plate myself. All the twin disk clutch's I have been around have been pull style and recessed flywheel. In looking on the web tonight I see they do make twin plate for a flat faced flywheel and they look to be push style. When specing clutchs you want to look at the amount of surface area. Sometimes 13 inch is better than a bigger one crazy as that sounds.

Yah for heavy stuff I've been around allot more pull clutches but my bell housing doesn't have the holes to put the pull style fork in it so i'll stick with the push style that way I won't have to also change up the linkage. I'd like to find a twin disc that will bolt up to the flywheel and fit the 1.5'' 10 spline input shaft. Otherwise all I can find is 14 inch single disc push with 4 button ceramic friction disc and they are rated for 500ftlb I'm not sure if it would hold or not IDK how under ratted they are but Justin said I'd be right in the neighborhood of 700ftlb on this engine.

 

[IDI-IKE]

Here's pictures of the clutches. The grimy one is original to the truck the new one was from the 3208 that used to be a twin disc but lost a couple parts. The bigger one (3208) used the outer bolt circle on the idi flywheel the original clutch used the inner bolt circle