6.9 won't start

[Okumaguru]

I traded it for a 1988 F-250 4X4. The truck came out factory with a 7.3 but it had problems so they put a 6.9 diesel in it. They were in the process of installing a new front timing seal in it when the guys dad had a heart attack so that is how I traded for it. It needs the timing cover seal installed, radiator, belts, etc installed.
I put the harmonic balancer on it and tried to start it yesterday. They told me that the engine had been ran out of fuel so the first thing I did was to loosen the fuel lines at the injectors, then crank it over for a few seconds, wait, then crank it more until the nuts were starting to get wet. I then re tightened them and tried to start it. When it wouldn't even hit I squirted starting fluid into the air intake and it still wouldn't hit. I then poured a little diesel directly into the air intake. It first sounded like they normally do when you use to much starting fluid, then it sounded like it might have hit once or twice but then wouldn't start.
I'm not even certain it is hooked up correctly although I expect it is. I looked thru my Chilton's manual this morning but it really didn't have much information on diesel's so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't know exactly what should have voltage and how much voltage there should be on a diesel.
Thanks in advance.
Tim

 

[Diesel JD]

I would not try pouring anything down the intake,not even diesel. You could bend a rod or cause a runaway or a hydrolock. Sounds like you got lucky and nothing too bad happened. First of all, you need to get fuel to the injectors. That pump may either be bad or have a massive air lock in it. Try loosening the lines at the injector pump itself and at the inlet to the injector pump. You have to have fuel at the IP and then at the back of the pump before you can get fuel to the injectors. My gut feeling is that it is just massively airlocked. Do the glow plugs work? How fast does it crank over? Also to answer your question you need 12V at the FSS, but it will operate properly down to around 10.5V. Also with the key on, take the red wire off the IP, you should hear an audible click when it is replaced and removed. That's the fuel shutoff solenoid doing its thing. With a project truck that has sat awhile and was traded for family/health reasons like that it could be a myriad of things, most not serious. I'm really surprised that it didn't at least run for a few seconds or so when you used the either. Usually they do then act like they ran out of fuel when you have no fuel present. A small whiff of ether is also acceptable just as long as the glow plugs are not on.

 

[Okumaguru]

update

I knew it was a bad idea but I was running out of ideas. I next disconnected the fuel line before the fuel pump, put a piece of hose on it which I know to be good, then tried starting it again. With either, I could get it to hit but not start. I apparently got a little overzealous and forgot about the 2 minute cool off rule for the starter so now I get to replace that.
As soon as I get it turning over again I am going to re-bleed the injectors I think. I have a feeling the water separator was allowing it to suck air as I read about happening so hopefully I just need to get the rest of the air out of the system.
Thanks for everything so far and in advance and I will keep everyone posted.
Tim

 

[icanfixall]

Any chance the front injection pump cover was removed for the seal work? Thats the half round cover the injection pump is bolted to. If it was then my feelings are its not gear timed properly. Otherwise I'm out of ideas other than air locked.....