I know that there is LOTS written about hard starting issues with IDIs, but this has us a bit puzzled. We are dealing with a late 86 that we never heard run in it's original vehicle, as it was a swap into a 1979 that we are completing. We have checked or done the following:
1)-All Glow Plugs all replaced with Motorcraft. Controller cycles for seven or eight seconds, then afterglows. If I take a GP out and ground the body and turn the ignition on, they get hot, but do not quite "GLOW". Should they actually get hot enough to glow? If they are NOT getting hot enough to glow, could that cause a no-start condition? Could that cause the problem even if it is 70 degrees outside, ie, does a "cold" engine need GPs to start even in warm weather?
2)-We have replaced the OEM injectors with "refurbished" (sorry, but funds are a bit tight) injectors. It smokes a bit, but we attributed it to it not having been run for a year, and thought it may clear up.
3)-Installed a DIPACO return line kit from Mel, so I assume no leaks there.
4)-Installed new "olives" at the fuel filter head to lift pump connection, both ends of the fuel filter head to IP connection, and the return line to ip connection. Are there any others?
5)-Since we needed a "cold idle solenoid" and a nearby junk had an 86 'running engine' f-250, we were able to purchase the entire pump for a very reasonable price. We swapped the pump, setting the "static timing" to line up the two marks. We Know that we need to do dynamic timing, but are they that sensitive to timing that setting it statically would cause a "no start"?
There is a slight diesel smell when cranking. Cranking speed is pretty good. Pair of newer 1000 CCA batteries, new 2/0 cables. I know it is frowned upon, but a 1/2 second shot of ether into the snorkel of the air cleaner, and it fires right up. Seems to run and drive o.k., once it is warm. Based on the above, any ideas of what we may be missing? I have never owned a Diesel before, and appreciate the group members being so generous with advice.
Edit: Another pertinent detail is that the truck WILL start on it's own when left overnight, but only after cranking it for about 10 seconds, and at least 3 rounds of that. So, it'll start, but not nearly as easy as it ought to.
1)-All Glow Plugs all replaced with Motorcraft. Controller cycles for seven or eight seconds, then afterglows. If I take a GP out and ground the body and turn the ignition on, they get hot, but do not quite "GLOW". Should they actually get hot enough to glow? If they are NOT getting hot enough to glow, could that cause a no-start condition? Could that cause the problem even if it is 70 degrees outside, ie, does a "cold" engine need GPs to start even in warm weather?
2)-We have replaced the OEM injectors with "refurbished" (sorry, but funds are a bit tight) injectors. It smokes a bit, but we attributed it to it not having been run for a year, and thought it may clear up.
3)-Installed a DIPACO return line kit from Mel, so I assume no leaks there.
4)-Installed new "olives" at the fuel filter head to lift pump connection, both ends of the fuel filter head to IP connection, and the return line to ip connection. Are there any others?
5)-Since we needed a "cold idle solenoid" and a nearby junk had an 86 'running engine' f-250, we were able to purchase the entire pump for a very reasonable price. We swapped the pump, setting the "static timing" to line up the two marks. We Know that we need to do dynamic timing, but are they that sensitive to timing that setting it statically would cause a "no start"?
There is a slight diesel smell when cranking. Cranking speed is pretty good. Pair of newer 1000 CCA batteries, new 2/0 cables. I know it is frowned upon, but a 1/2 second shot of ether into the snorkel of the air cleaner, and it fires right up. Seems to run and drive o.k., once it is warm. Based on the above, any ideas of what we may be missing? I have never owned a Diesel before, and appreciate the group members being so generous with advice.
Edit: Another pertinent detail is that the truck WILL start on it's own when left overnight, but only after cranking it for about 10 seconds, and at least 3 rounds of that. So, it'll start, but not nearly as easy as it ought to.
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! One peculiarity, though, is that the WTS light (we mounted and wired one into the dash of this 79 F-150) goes off after 7 seconds, but the relay doesn't go into 'afterglow' until 10 or 11 seconds. If you try to start when the light shuts off, it still is hard. If you wait until the relay shuts off then goes to afterglow, it starts (cold) on the second try. Does everybody else's wts light shut off at the same time as the relay, or do we still have a problem? Thanks for everybody's help. There's hope for this beast yet!
