Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
That's an interesting thought, I may have to look into that just for the sake of it being a practical job. Thanks
Rock
4.56 gears???
- Thread starter Farmer Rock
- Start date
Rock
asmith
Full Access Member
just to throw my two cents in. I have 4.10s, ZF-5 and 35" tires. I can still start my truck off in 2nd even on a slight incline. I have towed some pretty heavy loads, not as heavy as that hay wagon, you mentioned, but it has pulled everything i have needed it to, and we have some pretty good grades around here. The biggest thing is Reverse. IT SUCKS!!! I dont even attempt to back up a trailer with out putting it in 4 low. it just smokes the clutch otherwise. IF you are moving that much weight around often, you may want the 4.56 just for reverse. I think otherwise you would be happy with a new clutch and 4.10s
03wr250f
Full Access Member
That^
If you are towing heavy often I would go 4.10s. Unless you are on big tires or towing 15k often I wouldn't go 4.56
Personally I went from 4.10s to 3.55s and couldn't be happier
A gasser zf5(wide ratio) with lower reverse and first would be awesome for me
For you 4.10s with a wide ratio in a perfect world
That would also give you a lower 1st equivalent of 4.56s and a diesel zf5
Me I towed 13k with my truck and 3.55s and only for initial take off did I use 4low then once on the road put in 2wd and shifted normally. But I also have more power than most. If towing that heavy everyday I would have kept 4.10s
I rarely every tow, so 3.55s are wayyy nicer
If you are towing heavy often I would go 4.10s. Unless you are on big tires or towing 15k often I wouldn't go 4.56
Personally I went from 4.10s to 3.55s and couldn't be happier
A gasser zf5(wide ratio) with lower reverse and first would be awesome for me
For you 4.10s with a wide ratio in a perfect world
That would also give you a lower 1st equivalent of 4.56s and a diesel zf5
Me I towed 13k with my truck and 3.55s and only for initial take off did I use 4low then once on the road put in 2wd and shifted normally. But I also have more power than most. If towing that heavy everyday I would have kept 4.10s
I rarely every tow, so 3.55s are wayyy nicer
TNBrett
Full Access Member
Rock,
Did you check out the Grimm Jeeper link I posted? It’s a gear ratio calculator. They have all the ratios loaded for the different ZF transmission models. You enter in tire size and axle ratio, and it will tell you road speed and RPM in any gear. I still think 4.56 is the way to go for your situation.
Did you check out the Grimm Jeeper link I posted? It’s a gear ratio calculator. They have all the ratios loaded for the different ZF transmission models. You enter in tire size and axle ratio, and it will tell you road speed and RPM in any gear. I still think 4.56 is the way to go for your situation.
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
It took me a little while to figure it out, but I just used it this morning.
You must be registered for see images attach
It looks like I can run 70 no problem, which would be great.
The only downfall to this, is when I run 70 mph in reverse, I'll be at 15k rpm,lol
Seriously though, I'm thinking about going through with regearing.
That calculator is great, really helped me out.
Thanks Brett!
Rock
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
I was a commercial truck driver/owner way back. I had a Kenworth with a 8V92TA and a 13 speed tranny and two speed rear ends. If I started out in 1st, I would move about 10 feet and have to upshift. Then I would go about 15 or 20 feet and shift again. I would only do this if I was heavy loaded. If I was empty I could start in 3rd or 4th. If I was at a construction site (dirt) I would shift into low in the rear ends and than use the tranny as needed. The whole point is having too many gears in my tool kit was much better than needing a gear or two and not having them.
Last edited:
TNBrett
Full Access Member
I think that may be a little high but I haven’t priced one lately. You could probably do it yourself and save quite a bit.
Yes. If you get a more honest shop than the one I got stuck using for my F250 in 2017, it might be $1200ish? It can be hard to find a shop who will do differentials too because it requires shimming properly which is time consuming and if done wrong will destroy the gears from not meshing properly. So, many shops refuse the job.
I highly recommend the solid pinion spacer instead of the stock crush sleeve. When its your first r&p setup, you'll have the thing apart and together up to a dozen times to get it right. The solid spacer means you're not junking a crush sleeve every time. Address your yoke also (maybe you want bigger/stronger) and any traction aid you want to add at the same time.
This is why 4.10 is attractive... because you can buy a used $100-$200 diff and check it over or freshen it up ahead of time. Swap it over in a few hours if you prep for it.
This is why 4.10 is attractive... because you can buy a used $100-$200 diff and check it over or freshen it up ahead of time. Swap it over in a few hours if you prep for it.
I regeared my off-road truck myself to 5.38 a few years back. Expect to pay at least $800 for gear, shim, seal and bearing kits for both axles. That's if you're buying the parts yourself. Lots of shops don't like it when you buy your own parts, so if you're planning on hiring someone to do it check with them first to make sure they're ok with it. Labor depends a lot on the area you're in, but I'd expect at least $1,000 in labor to do both. You'll be pushing $2,000 or more pretty easily if you pay someone else to do it.
My experience with this same setup was different. I had the zf and 35's with 4.10's, and I could take off in 2nd if I slipped the clutch a little bit. So I always started off in 1st. I now have tires that are about 32 inches in diameter and it's like a different truck. Pulls much better. And I still can cruise down the interstate.
david85
Full Access Member
Not sure if this helps, but I put together a spreadsheet some time ago to evaluate different gear ratios and transmission combos. Here's a ZF5/4.10 combo. You can manually enter a different axle ratio if you want to see what the 4.56 ratio would look like. Hopefully the attachment work.
Attachments
Cant Write
Full Access Member
So many things to consider,
and I am not near as experienced as most others commenting in this thread. But I love Grimm Jeeper as well as @TNBrett mentioned. You would need 4.88 gear's to match what 3.55's and wide ratio guts would do in 1st and R.
Gear swap would limit your cruising speed and hurt mpg, you mention its your daily work pickup, in my situation, the CC would be used more than the RC's or SC's (I have 4 in my family).
Based on my comparisons, and reading others' experiences/suggestions: without making a budget comparison spreadsheet; I would keep the gears, and add a turbo, manual hubs, and wide ratio guts. This is most likely time consuming and expensive vs a gear/axle swap. What about finding super duty axles with factory 4.88's/5.13's? Would they bolt in..? Is there a kit available? I just think 4.10's/4.56's would not be enough...... They always say "don't fear the gear"
Side Note: @david85 caught my attention with his mention of 3.08's with a E4OD. I need a turbo at my elevation, and it looks like my van will stay 2wd for awhile. (Trying to afford a 30x40 garage so I can get off the dirt). So turbo addition plus 3.08's sound like a hwy cruising win for my van.
Good Luck Rock!
and I am not near as experienced as most others commenting in this thread. But I love Grimm Jeeper as well as @TNBrett mentioned. You would need 4.88 gear's to match what 3.55's and wide ratio guts would do in 1st and R.
Gear swap would limit your cruising speed and hurt mpg, you mention its your daily work pickup, in my situation, the CC would be used more than the RC's or SC's (I have 4 in my family).
Based on my comparisons, and reading others' experiences/suggestions: without making a budget comparison spreadsheet; I would keep the gears, and add a turbo, manual hubs, and wide ratio guts. This is most likely time consuming and expensive vs a gear/axle swap. What about finding super duty axles with factory 4.88's/5.13's? Would they bolt in..? Is there a kit available? I just think 4.10's/4.56's would not be enough...... They always say "don't fear the gear"
Side Note: @david85 caught my attention with his mention of 3.08's with a E4OD. I need a turbo at my elevation, and it looks like my van will stay 2wd for awhile. (Trying to afford a 30x40 garage so I can get off the dirt). So turbo addition plus 3.08's sound like a hwy cruising win for my van.
Good Luck Rock!
