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2+2 does not equal 4

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by 1mouse3, Jan 21, 2021.

  1. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    What I come up with as a fixed point on the farme is the spring bolts, so took that point to the inner bead. This is what I come up doing that, used the inner most face. I was having trouble with the two rear bead measurements, could had got that one wrong but came up with close to the same thing twice.

    [​IMG]




    This is the dial indicator I have.

    [​IMG]




    Im going to have to look aroung for a better means to support, best I could come up with is a bit sketch at best.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    Because the side with a 12 stack pack is about level and the side with the 9 stack pack is ~2in low, so going with a oem f350 6 stack pack would put me ~4in below level of the front. I would like 1-2in more hight in the rear, so would need 7in blocks vs 5in ones for what I have. Dont think would be wise to run a 7in+ blocks, so would be looking into 6in lift springs for the rear. What Im finding for springs is rear oem spec is ~$250 off rockauto and lifted is $350 at the low end a side. That is a bit much to spend right now since got a advance from someone and dont want to borrow more.

    https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/skyjacker-softride-leaf-spring-rear-fr56s/_/R-BHNG-FR56S


    So need to get this resolved as cheap possable and kick the can down the road, but stay away from what will fail easy. What I am seeing as a kit for blocks with u-bolts in the 5in range are these, would also need top plates to go with these.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sja-buk5593/make/ford/model/f-350/year/1993


    Getting both the would run me about the same as above, so dont think would chose this path. May consider these blocks if was finding some 5/8x3-5/8x19 square bolts but dont see them as a option.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Tapered-...087645?hash=item4228aa3fdd:g:mM8AAOSw2qBgAy9P

    https://www.pmfsuspension.com/OBS-Ford-F-250350-Ubolts_p_44.html


    Would need top plates then and am seeing these.

    https://www.pmfsuspension.com/Adjustable-Alignment-Pin-Ubolt-Top-Plates_p_33.html
     
  3. Clb

    Clb Another old truck Supporting Member

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    Is measurement "c" the same front and rear?
    Yes = good frame rails are parallel.
    I see 2 figure "c"'s so I guess yes...

    I see multiple fig. "D" and "e" pinion flange to pivot pin aint bad+- 1\16" ...
    The others are suspect... Brb

    Fig. A 54 3\4 on the b side ( driver) 55 3\8 on A side looks at 7\8" out am I correct?
    This could be a typo in measurement (use a string then measure it)
    Or plumb bob it... (Req. Pulling the wheels off and hitting the wheel mounting surface for the spring pin to wheel distance...
     
  4. quickster

    quickster Full Access Member

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    what do you have from A to B, and D to E.
     
  5. Clb

    Clb Another old truck Supporting Member

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    Checking the spring packs "arch " height could help here...
    Springs off the truck time ...

    One reason for a 3 leaf difference could be an bed crane on the bumper ?

    If ya mix n match the 21 leaves side to side and toss the odd balls using new center bolts you could level the spring packs pretty close...

    Lift blocks will be to be determined.
    Are the shackles the same length?
    Are the center pin to front eye the same measurement side to side?
     
  6. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    C just means I took the mesurment from the center of the bolt, F is front and g is rear meserment between the perches.

    Im going to have to redo that these two with a helping hand, did get that twice so dont know in the juggling act.



    could be and will try it that way, would need to get some first.
     
  7. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    I wont be able to get measurement between the wheels with out a extra hand just using a tape measure
     
  8. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    yes they are the same


    F is at a lip that is 7/8 from bolt face, so 39-1/4 + ( 7/8 x 2) = 41 and is same a g
     
  9. oregon96psd

    oregon96psd Full Access Member

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    Looks like to much backspacing on the wheels moving the load to the inside of the tire.

    Just pull the axle shafts out of it, in the unlikely event that the axle is bent enough to cause the wear, you will know right away if it’s bent when you try to put them back in.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2021
  10. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    Got a extra hand and got close to the same for A/B, did see a difference in hight of J/L when M is set the same. I also a measurement between the steel wheels K/N, that was the same front and back.


    [​IMG]
     
  11. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    If so, would I also be getting the same wear on the front since has the same offset?
     
  12. BR3

    BR3 Full Access Member

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    Just as a side note, i have never seen obs trucks that weren't f-supers with lower u bolt plates and top bends. My money is that someone swapped out your whole spring assy. With f super duty stuff and just ground the bottom plate to match the axle.

    Also, is your front lifted at all? How many leafs? To keep level/slightly rear high with a stock front end, stock front rear springs with an appropriate block should work. The height has as much to do with arch as number of leafs.
     
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  13. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    I am using F-supersuty springs for the front, so there is some lift there and would estimate 3-4in over a f250.

    Edit: Center of the hub up to the fender arch is 26.5in on the front.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2021
  14. 1mouse3

    1mouse3 Full Access Member

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    That is highly plausible since there 3in wide packs, thanks for pointing that out and is looking like I'm on f-supers all around.
     
  15. BR3

    BR3 Full Access Member

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    I would estimate that F super is nearly a 6" lift up front over a stock 250, 4"+ on the stock 350 springs, Wich would work out to about 4" over stock needed in the rear to level, and would put you right at your estimated block height of 7" to get you 2" high rear, so cheap and tall usually does unfortunately mean stiff haha
     
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