2+2 does not equal 4

[1mouse3]

I have ran 867 miles so far and noticed that something is more off than thought. The rear tires are wearing on the inside and dont find play in the rear wheels.

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I am also seeing that the right side is sitting lower than the left, was thinking just because the spring packs where not the same. The left pack is 12 leafs and the right is 10 leafs not including the helper, these packs are a bit stiff.

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This truck was in a accident under ownership of the past owner, so making me wounder if am dealing with a bent axle along with the mismatched packs. Center of the front axle to the bottom of the fender is 26.5in and would like the rear to be 2in higher than that, one side is about level but the other has a mad lean. What spring and block combination would be ideal for this, would 08+ spring be easy and simple?

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[Clb]

1 wheel bearings
2 bent housing from gross overloading (smiley face axle = decambered wheels)

 

[quickster]

Those springs look like the set I have on my 97 dump body. Check the axle for offset. Check the frame for straight.

 

[quickster]

Two spring equal like close to 1 inch. Are the top 2 springs going to the shackles the same length? Looks like you have 2 dif packs.

 

[1mouse3]

1 wheel bearings
2 bent housing from gross overloading (smiley face axle = decambered wheels)

1: Will find someone bigger than me to play with them, there a bit big for me. I can roll and scoot them about just fine, do need to get a means to get them in and out of the bed.

2: Well there is what looks like black goo all over the inside of the bed that has turned rock hard, some spots got graval as well, so overloading is not far fetched. Do need to switch it from 4:10 to 3:55 and this would off set the effort to accomplice it, the front is 3:55 and would let me run better than 55 mph. Just what not thinking to change it just yet.

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Those springs look like the set I have on my 97 dump body. Check the axle for offset. Check the frame for straight.

I have no clue what these spring came on the truck and looks like was used to run tar or equivalent. What would the points be to check the offset?

Would this not be correct resolutions?

|| Front                         wear on the insides cased by toe/camber?
/\ Rear

|| Front                         wear on both left sides being the axles not aligned together?
\\ Rear"

Two spring equal like close to 1 inch. Are the top 2 springs going to the shackles the same length? Looks like you have 2 dif packs.

They are dfferent and two less long long leafs, think could run bigger blocks and pull leafs out the packs.

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[Clb]

Jack tire 2" off the ground,set on jackstand , put a long prybar under tire from the rear, an inch in from the side and rock it up\down....
Gently and feel for the clunk.

 

[quickster]

Man, I've never seen that before.Try taking 2 leaves out on the left and tighten up the u bolts. Watch that brake line. I would think if they were wearing on the inside like that both tires would be toed out. You could take a tape measure and measure from the inside of each tire front and back. Like measure up 16' from the ground and make a mark on the tire before the axle, and after the axle on the sidewall. Then measure across the front and back. See if there is a big difference. That would be a quick way to eliminate the question of toe in or out.

 

[quickster]

Looks like the PO used to pick up asphalt in the back of the truck.

 

[1mouse3]

Jack tire 2" off the ground,set on jackstand , put a long prybar under tire from the rear, an inch in from the side and rock it up\down....
Gently and feel for the clunk.

Will try that tomorrow.

Try taking 2 leaves out on the left and tighten up the u bolts.

Im thinking pull 4 from the left and 2 from the right and replace the 2in blocks with 4in ones. Did some diging and found these, would ether these be good?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Tapered-...e:Ford&hash=item4228aa3fdd:g:mM8AAOSw2qBgAy9P

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ReadyLift-...016252&hash=item48f75c8e23:g:5KoAAOSwthtfqsuW

 

[mblaney]

For the cost of a new set of springs why not just replace with new u-bolts? That way you get new bushings... all done. Start to finish that would only take a couple of hours (using a blue wrench to get the old stuff off).

Buy yourself a cheap laser level - the kind with a bubble on it and a flat bottom like this https://www.boschtools.com/ca/en/boschtools-ocs/wall-and-floor-covering-line-lasers-gll-1-p-50826-p/
You can use that to project to the front and back to see if something is wacky. I do my own front end alignments with one of these and every hardware store sells them cheap. You can also use a vertical level or a straight edge to see if you have a camber problem (bent axle). If you want an easy digital device to do this, check out a "tilt-box" digital inclinometer. This just makes it very easy for you to detect where the problems are.

 

[1mouse3]

Buy yourself a cheap laser level - the kind with a bubble on it and a flat bottom like this https://www.boschtools.com/ca/en/boschtools-ocs/wall-and-floor-covering-line-lasers-gll-1-p-50826-p/
You can use that to project to the front and back to see if something is wacky. I do my own front end alignments with one of these and every hardware store sells them cheap. You can also use a vertical level or a straight edge to see if you have a camber problem (bent axle). If you want an easy digital device to do this, check out a "tilt-box" digital inclinometer. This just makes it very easy for you to detect where the problems are.

I will look into all that and had found a past post from you with more detail.

Dana 60 wearing outside of tires

For the cost of a new set of springs why not just replace with new u-bolts? That way you get new bushings... all done. Start to finish that would only take a couple of hours (using a blue wrench to get the old stuff off).

I am going to start by pulling two leafs from the driver side pack but do need 4in blocks with new u-bolts before I do that. These u-bolts are going to be a odd thing to find since have non oem bottom plates as aposed to top ones, these are still the 3in packs so need to find 5/8x3-5/8x19 bolts.


Also here here are more picks of the spring packs, unsure if can make them close to matching for now but will try.

Edit: I miscounted the passenger side pack and is 9, so 3 would need pulled from the driver side and would need 5in blocks I think.

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[1mouse3]

Jack tire 2" off the ground,set on jackstand , put a long prybar under tire from the rear, an inch in from the side and rock it up\down....
Gently and feel for the clunk.

I tred that and did not get a clunk.

You could take a tape measure and measure from the inside of each tire front and back. Like measure up 16' from the ground and make a mark on the tire before the axle, and after the axle on the sidewall. Then measure across the front and back. See if there is a big difference. That would be a quick way to eliminate the question of toe in or out.

I made a marks on the same oposing lugs at same hight, this gave me a equal distance front and rear. Would think toe is good, so grabed a gauge I dont care for. I have trubles getting a true 0 and dose not seem to have accurate curve, did not like the readings off the bmw to say was accurat. Ether way giving this gauge another shot since just need a yes/no answer, I got a reading that was not the same.

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I then spun the wheel 180 and got the same reading, so there may be something up with the camber.

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[Clb]

My .o2
Take the frame to tire measurements off the steel wheel.
(This only works on a frame with parallel rails...)
Measure the "in front\behind the axle" frame width to see.
Ever seen a tire with runout due to belt shift?
The fact no play in wheel (with prybar) sounds normal.
The axle flange could be "not at a 90* to the shaft" something to look at, (got a dial indicator?)
Ok so the spirit level won't repeat?
Ok all done.

 

[1mouse3]

Ok so the spirit level won't repeat?

That level will repeat but dont think the scale is correct, as in 1=1.25 degrees. Both wheels would give the same reading rotated 180 but is a different reading left vs right. I trued it to 0 off a post that a standard level said was true, so 0 is close but not exact.

Take the frame to tire measurements off the steel wheel.
(This only works on a frame with parallel rails...)
Measure the "in front\behind the axle" frame width to see.

I dont think will give a accurat mesurement since difference of right hight due to different springs, so would not think is parallel then.

Ever seen a tire with runout due to belt shift?

Not that I can remember but have seen at lot with bubbles.

dial indicator?

Yes I do.

 

[Clb]

Jack up low side, to be level.
Old trick to check a beam level
Set on wall get level or plumb
Strike line
Flip level end for end and top to bottom (level), set on previous struck level line...
Strike line again, should be ONE line visible.

It is possible to suck air into the vials(thus fubaring the optic)
Dial indicator on axle flange outer section rotate and check for run out, (spirit level on hub check).
Hope this helps.