1st timer pulling idi turbodiesel

[GOOSE]

Ok, enought putting it off, I started wrenching on my truck. About an hour yesterday and an hour and a half today. In proper Oilburners ethics, I will post pics and have plenty of questions. Also bear with me as I learn how to post pics.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29697&stc=1&d=1270782255

That is oil on the intake side of my turbo. Worries? Also was oil on the underside of the air cleaner cartridge. What could that be from???????? CDR?

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29699&stc=1&d=1270782794

Yes, that is my coolant, mostly water, ugly none the less. I'm sure SCA count is off.



Take a close look, someone cared about this truck enough to highlight the bolt heads and pinstripe some parts of the motor red at one point. I'm thinking about reversing it and going IH red with grey highlights.

Look at the air cond condensor. Seems like the engine was pulled before with that left in place. The round indentations match the size of the water pump shaft.

Blue painters tape to mark and ease install of belts.

Question of the night: How much of the turbo needs to be dissambeled and how do you do it? Seems to me like the turbo and up pipe assembly may be able to stay put but how do you remove the exhaust outlet pipe???

Also, does the upper rad support come off? Chiltons mentions this and it may work. Then you could flip the condensor up and over towards the windshield and remove the engine at a lower stance.

Many thanks in advance. This site rocks!!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

When we pulled the turbo-charged 6.9 out of my truck, I didn't even evacuate the A/C; I took the compressor loose from the brackets and there was enough slack in the factory hoses to lay the compressor over on the fender out of harms way.

The condensor didn't even get a nick; nary an ounce of refrigerant was lost.

I did completely remove the turbo in it's entirety.

The clutch/pressure-plate assembly stayed on the fly-wheel, but things would not have quite been so tight had I removed it.


The radiator and hood was removed, but all fenders, grille, etc. remained intact.


Hope this information is of some help.

 

[GOOSE]

I have the accessories flopped over and tie wired out of the way. I did make a mental note to protect the condensor with 1/4 plywood for safe measures.

Good note on the clutch, I'm gonna try to leave it also.

Thanks Midnight Rider, all of this info is very much being used here. 12-15 years ago things were different. Now with 4 kids in a tight economy, every bit of planning and info are of a greater importance as time and money are much more valuable today.

 

[nyteshades]

Also, does the upper rad support come off? Chiltons mentions this and it may work. Then you could flip the condensor up and over towards the windshield and remove the engine at a lower stance.

Yep it comes out. I actually prefer this to over the top. I did over the top with my 351, and that was a PIA with a cherry picker. I couldn't/don't want to imagine it with the 7.3.

 

[icanfixall]

If you attach the chain close at the intake you can lift these motors out with the hood on the truck and the core support in place.... I did this 5 times in one day once.... The torque converter pilot was size on size to the crank adapter spacer.... That was a day on hell.... Then I figured out if you take the hood springs off the hood you can open it much more so the motor can lift out easier too. Just need to use a 2x4 to prop open the hood.... Otherwise it wont stay open..... Yes... Its kinda scary lifting the motor over the
core support but it can be done with the correct hoist....
P.S..... The starter and oil filter needs to be removed before the motor has enough clearance to come out. When you install the motor remove the ruber motor mounts from the block but leave the metal brackets on the block. Set the motor in and bolt to the trans. Now lift the motor enough to install the mounts. Oldmisterbill taught me that trick. It sure makes it easy to attach the motor to the trans with the mounts out of the way.... BTW the mounts are marked left and right but check them. They also have an up and down direction that they need to be installed by.... I made that mistake and had one in upside down... Sure was a tuff fit till I found what was wrong..... The things we learn by doing the things we do.....

 

[nyteshades]

But it's just soo much easier to stand in front of the motor to hook/unhook everything up without having to hang over the core support, fenders, crawl under the truck, etc.

 

[GOOSE]

I got a compression tester today so I'm gonna put the starter back in to get some numbers before I pull the motor. Hopefully this will give me an indication as to where I need to search for my issues. I believe that when you do a job like this, taking the time to research and note things will go a long way to better understanding future problems.
I will post compression numbers and hopefully pics of the engine removal by the end of the night.
Posts are forwarded to my cell phone as they come in so feel free to send directions on how to remove the turbo. Thanks again.

 

[GOOSE]

Figured turbo out, motor remains in truck.

Yahoo, who knew the exhaust pipe just falls out from the underside??? Found ATS install directions on line and reversed info I needed for removal. Turbo is out.

Look at picture of gp's, looks like cyllinder #2 may be the culprit due to the tell tale rust on the glow plug. Also you can see the driver's side head and rocker cover is nice and clean because that side was rebuilt and as my cousin and I predicted that side is showing signs of the problem. Coincidence???

Junk Harbor Freight compression tester let me down, saw that coming from a mile away!!! The adapter does not fit into the GP hole. I knew it was against my better judgement to even entertain the notion of going to that cesspool of a store. Monday I will up the ante and get a US version of the same tool for about 5 times the price and sleep well knowing one of my fellow citizens has a job making said tool and I'm helping him keep said job.

I still want to compression test bad motor so I will tear out parts motor tomorrow and start to clean it up.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I've got a HF compression tester, but it 's got the adapter for the diesel. You can use 1/8" pipe that will thread into the GP's and make adaption from there. Get a long, like a 6" nipple.

See my avatar, that's how I work on them, and I'm 81. Was just installing an engine in the 92 IDI.

You must be registered for see images

Home made top side creeper mounted on the engine hoist, makes it so much easier working on them, no cracked ribs or hood latch stabs in the guts.

 

[GOOSE]

Glow plug threads?

What is the actual threads for the GP's? The HF tester says its a metric 10mmx1.00 thread. 1/8 pipe just doesn't feel like it fits properly to me.

 

[GOOSE]

Started compression testing, and then......

Got my good compression tester today and started to take some readings. Started with the drivers side which has the rebuilt head and the rusty GP.

Front cyll.(#2): 400psi
Cyll. #4(rusty GP): 225psi
CYll #6: 405 psi

Everything was going great. My 4 year old girl was handing me tools that were out of my reach, having a good time and then whamo, the IDI gods struck and I accidentally pulled the quick connect off before I relieved the pressure in the tester. The superficial flesh wound was no big deal however, the little 0 ring blew out of the quick connect and that brought my testing to a schreeching halt!!! Bummer!! This project obviously is gonna fight me the whole way. Thats ok, I have been slowed down before, never to be stopped though!!

Just as I suspected, the cyllinder with the rusty GP is low on compression. Crazy the engine ran rather smooth for such a low reading. Head gasket please, no worm!!! Isn't 400psi a good reading for this engine? Gonna try to reference a replacement o ring tomorrow so that the saga can continue.

 

[Diesel JD]

I think you found your problem Goose! Good detective work. Now, is it a head gasket or the big C? I'm not really sure the best way to tell to be 100% honest with you, the knowledge is here though. Just wanted to give you some encouragement and bump the post so some of the more experienced guys will see it. And yes...the other 2 cylinders are very good. Book spec is 195-440, with the lowest cylinder at least 75% of the highest. In truth most guys here would call anything below 300 really wore the heck out. 400-500 is very common on good motors, although if I had one with all in the 300s an within limits for variance I don't think I'd condemn it. Get you a new oring and get back to it.. make sure that's the only bad one. That head was pulled/rebuild for a reason, and many times people have thought block worm was just a bad head gasket BUT it is real easy to screw up on head gaskets, mostly by being in a hurry, not getting the mating surfaces perfectly clean, or having atorque wrench badly out of calibration/using incorrect torque specs. Lots of pitfalls.It sounds like you can afford to have the truck down for awhile which is good news.

 

[GOOSE]

Compression test done, motors coming out.

While the truck is down my driving is split between the wife's Excursion and the '87 Chevy c-70, both in my signature. Dump truck is not exactly a pleasant daily driver but gets the job done.

Went back into the garage to look for o ring. Looked all around the engine and glanced down to the floor where the radiator is supposed to be and who knew a cute little o ring was resting there in perfect condition. Here are the results, I double checked everything.

7: 420 8: 425
5: 445 6: 440
3: 465 4: 245
1: 425 2: 415

The 245lbs on the bad jug worries me. Can a bad head gasket still hold that kind of pressure? My gut feeling is a cavatation hole a bit more than half way down the wall allowing a percentage of the compression to be made. I do hope I am wrong. Tomorrow the engine gets pulled and the heads come off. I am going to make a test plate out of 3/8 or 1/2" plate, put a schrader valve and a pressure gauge in it, o ring it down to the deck, and do a leak down test. This plate will go onto one cyllinder at a time. The seven good cyllinders should give you an average leak down rate and if the #4 cyllinder matches, big C may not be an issue. Sound about right in theory?

The left head was rebuilt because the gp and the injector broke off in the #8 cyllinder. Funny how the gp in that cyllinder came out hard and the comp. tester screwed in hard likewise.

 

[Death85e]

No disrespect and i dont mean to Hi-jack your thread but the oil in the turbo intake could that be coming from the valve cover breather tube? My 7.3 turbo has a breather tube that attaches between the turbo intake and the air filter which causes some minor oil to be deposited in the same place as what shows in your picture. If this is a bad thing i would like to know myself.

 

[GOOSE]

Thats not hi jacking, I already hinted towards that question and obviously have discovered bigger problems. I am hoping the oil issue is no big deal myself. Welcome to the site by the way, looks like you have a hard working truck in your avatar, nice!!