1st post and question about rear gears

[rlb245]

My 1987 came factory with the T18 and a 4.10 rear. In 1st idle 2 MHr I put the ZF5 in and still had the Granny with a cruising speed of 60. Ya get the best of both worlds. To bad we don't live close we good just swap rear ends. I'm going to a 3.55 gear set in a couple weeks. ioi

 

[squirrel64]

Yeahhh 2 of them for a swap far away and I probably have a heck of a time finding one local.......... Thanks so much guys for the suggestions. I am going to look around for for a used rear. If I can't find anything close then mechanic friend said if I got a complete rear rebuild kit and new gears he would put them in. He said since he has it all apart anyway may as well put new bearings and seals throughout.

Just one more question from my first post on this thread. Will either one of these clutch kits work on my truck.

http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/inde...07-131n-mhdk-07131n-mhdk-kt07-131-n-mhdk.html

http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/inde...325-pn-s-07-131kdf-07131kdf-kt07-131-kdf.html

!985 f350 1 ton w/1988 7.3 T-19 tranny 4sp

Thanks

 

[franklin2]

I went to www-car-part.com and plugged in your truck and selected DRW, Cab & ch, (w/body code F37 & F38), Spicer, 11,000 GVW (70HD, 4.10 ratio) And this came up.

1985
Rear Axle
Ford Truck 350 111,998 A VA4344 $550 Virginia Truck Parts USA-VA(King-George) E-mail 1-800-390-2025

I then selected a later model which should fit, this is still a cab and chassis rearend.

1988
Rear Axle
Ford Truck F350 CHECK RATIO 123,569 A CC3588 $850 Estes Auto and Truck Parts USA-VA(Pilot) E-mail 1-877-616-4900 / 1-540-651-4637
1997
Rear Axle
Ford Truck F350 DULLY F0340 $750.25 Phoenix Automotive USA-VA(Culpeper) E-mail 540-825-2571


The cab and chassis rearend may be a challenge to find, a dually pickup rearend will not fit if you really do have a cab and chassis truck. To tell you the truth, I like the transfer case idea. You will need to buy a tranny AND a transfer case, but you can't beat the low range the transfer case gives you, it's really handy when you are backing up. You do not have 4x4 but who cares? And you could put a front axle under it at a later date if you wanted.

Here's a 4x4 4 speed.
1987
Transmission
Ford Truck F250 6.9,4 SP,4x4,Tilt,CRUISE,Floor 152,124 A D08587 $350 Estes Auto and Truck Parts USA-VA(Pilot) E-mail 1-877-616-4900 / 1-540-651-4637
1987
Transmission
Ford Truck F250 BOWIE/ CUSTOMER OWNED244-8614 ,STOCK NO. #023856 #023856 $Call Roger's Auto Sales & Used Part USA-VA(New-Market) Request_Quote 540-740-8733 / 800-377-8302 Request_Insurance_Quote

Here's a transfer case to go with it;
1985
Transfer Case
Ford Truck F150 4.9,4x4 102004 $350 Estes Auto and Truck Parts USA-VA(Pilot) E-mail 1-877-616-4900 / 1-540-651-4637
1985
Transfer Case
Ford Truck 250 NEW PROCESS, SLIP YOKE OUTPUT 0 A 11168 $350 Shenandoah Auto Salvage, Inc. VARA USA-VA(Stuart-Draft) Request_Quote 1-540-943-2300 Request_Insurance_Quote
1986
Transfer Case
Ford Truck F150 CK-SLP-O/PUT-SHFT VA0954 $300 Virginia Used Auto Parts USA-VA(Suffolk) Request_Quote 757-539-0520 Request_Insurance_Quote
1986
Transfer Case
Ford Truck F150 slip yoke output,STOCK NO. 003036028 101,386 A 003036028 $225 G & B Auto Parts, Inc. USA-VA(Floyd) E-mail 1-540-745-7401
1986
Transfer Case
Ford Truck F150 STOCK NO. #1072 #1072 $150 Greear's Used Cars/Parts, Inc. USA-VA(Coeburn) E-mail 1-276-395-3321
1986
Transfer Case
Ford Truck F150 GREY LONG BOX 4X4,STOCK NO. 000720029 000720029 $150 Greear's Used Cars/Parts, Inc. USA-VA(Coeburn) E-mail 1-276-395-3321

Of course you will need a driveshaft to go with it if you go the transfer case route.

 

[squirrel64]

hey franklin thanks for the input... I like TC idea too but a little more time and money than I want to put into this. I actually went to carparts too and found 1 exactly like mine with 4.10. It's about 2 1/2 hrs away from me. They have it listed for 550.00. I know a it's a little high but for direct bolt in I'm not gonna argue at this point. Also found one in New Hampshire 130K miles for 350.00 and 200.00 SH. My Axle assembly now already has new brakes so I figure all I'm gonna need is new U-Bolts.

If this truck didn't need to work everyday I might go with a different option. I may go with a different tranny in the future, just need to get this thing fixed and work ready again.

Thanks

 

[crewd]

I'll just throw this out. Do you have any pick a part places? I was visiting the pick a part in Fredericksburg, VA. They had 3-4 F350 Uhaul Trucks (gas, not diesel) when I was there a while ago. I would call before driving out (brush up on your spanish). Their standard axles are either $80 or 100, can't remember. Not sure if a uhaul axle would be same or more.
Pick a Part South LLC
8901 Jefferson Davis Hwy, Fredericksburg, VA ‎
(540) 693-1028

 

[squirrel64]

If I have to rely on my spanish I'd probably be walking out with a Volkswagen windshield wiper motor . A search on their website did not show any inventory of that exact axle assembly. But who knows. They are only little over an hour from me. thanks for the suggestion

 

[crewd]

I was mostly kidding. The people that work the front desk and answer phones speak english fine. The people running equipment and pulling parts have pretty broken english. They only have the late model inventory on-line and if you go there it is the "no u pull" section. Rest of stuff you can pull any parts you want. A lot of work to drag tools around and I haven't figured out if a generator is allowed (to run a grinder with cut off wheel). Cordless tools are okay. Worth a shot, but I would call first.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Here's my input, for what it's worth:

1) Leave your axle alone! Especially if it's in good shape. Direct top gear and 3.55s work VERY well for speeds of up to 55mph. With 4.10 rears you'll get more oomph, but even at 45mph the engine will be screaming. And screaming engine generally means frequent fuel stops. Additionally, your current 3.55 rear gears combined with a T18/19 with 6.32 first gear will make for 22.44 overall ratio, whereas keeping your current 4:02 trans and switching to 4.10 rears will get you only to 16.48 which is not all that great of improvement over your current 14.27 overall ratio.

2) Skip the 5-speed. Great transmission if you run on the interstate a lot, but little benefit for local low-speed driving. Yes it can be had in a wide-ratio setup which will work good for getting your heavy loads in motion, but you can achieve the same with the right 4-speed too. Plus with the ZF5 you may have to buy a new flywheel, not sure if its SMF clutch will work with your factory flywheel but I know a DMF clutch makes for somewhat dicey setup there.

3) Lose your current transmission. Keep the bellhousing and the flywheel. Install a T18 or T19 with creeper gear, those would have to come from a gasoline truck as all diesels have the same crappy 4:1 first as yours. Or just go NP435, again from a gasser (AFAIK all NP435 are creepers), then you get not just lower 1st gear but much lower reverse as well. Either of these will bolt up to your diesel bellhousing. And they're all quite cheap to have and are nearly indestructible.

4) Try to find a 4x4 transmission, then you can have a transfer case. You want the transfer case so you can outwalk your truck while it's pulling your chipper with a full load in the bed, uphill, while just idling in gear. A transfer case from an '80s bronco will have the fixed rear yoke you need to mate to your current driveshaft, you will only need to have the shaft shortened 2" or so. Or, even better, a NP205 case from a '70s truck, cast iron bombproof goodness. Actually you if you grab the transmission and transfer case from a '70s F-series gasser you will have both the creeper gears and the stupid strong transfer case. Plus the correct shifter linkage will already be there as well, so no guesswork involved. Remember a transfer case usually does not require a driven front axle, I actually use mine regularly in low range without locking the hubs in - I run it like that for the crawl ratio, not the 4x4 feature. Just make sure the case is not a NP203 and you'll be golden in that department.

Edit #1: nice looking truck! Also, any 4-spd clutch you put in now will be reusable with the creeper gear 4-spd trans later. As long as you don't burn it in the mean time

Edit #2: https://martinsburg.craigslist.org/pts/3962727141.html - here's a 4x4 NP435 close to you (Google says around 40 miles) for what I think is decent price. Just need a transfer case, here's one that should work: https://martinsburg.craigslist.org/pts/3992554303.html - seems like it's the same guy that's selling the trans, win which case he probably has the matching shifter as well. I run a NP208 myself.

 

[squirrel64]

Here's my input, for what it's worth:
4) Try to find a 4x4 transmission, then you can have a transfer case. You want the transfer case so you can outwalk your truck while it's pulling your chipper with a full load in the bed, uphill, while just idling in gear. A transfer case from an '80s bronco will have the fixed rear yoke you need to mate to your current driveshaft, you will only need to have the shaft shortened 2" or so. Or, even better, a NP205 case from a '70s truck, cast iron bombproof goodness. Actually you if you grab the transmission and transfer case from a '70s F-series gasser you will have both the creeper gears and the stupid strong transfer case. Plus the correct shifter linkage will already be there as well, so no guesswork involved. Remember a transfer case usually does not require a driven front axle, I actually use mine regularly in low range without locking the hubs in - I run it like that for the crawl ratio, not the 4x4 feature. Just make sure the case is not a NP203 and you'll be golden in that department.

Edit: nice looking truck! Also, any 4-spd clutch you put in now will be reusable with the creeper gear 4-spd trans later. As long as you don't burn it in the mean time

LCAM
Would there much fabrication involved ? Other than the shaft . Reason I ask is because I'm limited in the tool department. No welder or torches. And trying to avoid mechanic fees if possible

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I edited my post above cause I found these for you:
https://martinsburg.craigslist.org/pts/3962727141.html - NP435 trans
https://martinsburg.craigslist.org/pts/3992554303.html - NP208 transfer case
Seems like the same person is selling both, so he will probably have the t-case shifter and linkage, and if you're lucky the transmission tunnel cover plate and transmission crossmember as well. In which case your fab work is down to a minimum:

1) disconnect driveshaft from transmission, measure height from centerline of transmission yoke up to floor of cab above it.
2) remove your current 2wd transmission mount and crossmember, the tunnel cover plate in the cab, then the 2wd transmission (in that order)
3) bolt in 4x4 trans and transfer case, drop new tunnel cover plate in, install transfer case shifter thru it (in that order)
4) reinstall 2wd transmission crossmember and mount, the crossmember should line up with two holes already drilled on bottom of frame rails from the factory. You may or may not have to adjust the height, I had to drop my crossmember 2" below the rails but my setup is an assortment of various model years of parts and my crossmember and mount are from an auto trans to begin with. And even that mess needed no welder work, just longer bolts and some spacers. If you can get the 4x4 crossmember and mount that belong with this trans and case, everything should be a bolt-on affair.

 

[gatorman21218]

I'm in Richmond. If theres anything I can do I will be happy to help out.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Squirrel64, I'm looking at pics of that transmission, I can see the NP208 case on the ground behind it in one of the pics. If the person replies to you, ask him for the trans, the case, the shifters and boots for both, the tunnel cover plate they go thru on the floor of the cab, the crossmember, and the trans mount. I'd offer him $300 for the package deal. And here's some reading material for you: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np435.htm

Gatorman, generous of you to offer help. You're a good man!

 

[squirrel64]

Thanks gatorman this is new to me so just trying to learn all I can in a short period and get it right the first time. I may take you up on it ! And LCAM ....... thanks for your help ! I did sent a couple questions to the guy and will await a response. Hopefully get a deal on the whole package

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Aye, no problem, I recently put in a t19 with a NP208 where there once was a 2wd auto, so all that info is still fairly fresh in my head. Meaning if ya got questions ask away while I still remember how this mess fell into place

The one thing to watch out for with that transfer case is the rear yoke, you want a fixed one like so (ignore the tape measure number, yours may be different):

You must be registered for see images attach

The other variety has a slip yoke, the tail housing is very long and the yoke slides inside it and there is no nut on the output shaft for the yoke, it's free to slide in and out as it pleases - that one is supposedly weaker setup (in this particular transfer case type) and requires a different yoke and can make driveshaft work somewhat of a mess. I've seen both setups in pickup trucks, so just watch out.

Oh, one more thing - speedometer cable, you probably have to hit a junkyard for a 4x4 one cause it's longer than what you have now - sorry I didn't mention that earlier, I've been running the long cable for years now so I completely forgot your factory one won't quite reach the port on the case.

 

[squirrel64]

You must be registered for see images attach

Ok I will keep that in mind........ I usually don't fret over the small stuff much but I just got through putting a tranny in this beast and replacing a few hyd hoses and it just about tapped me out. I was coming down the road and didnt know one of the pto's had developed a real bad leak and ended burning up one of the main bearings inside

So I'm sure i'll have a few questions for ya