1993 F350 DRW 7.3 idi non-turbo - looking for steps directions on engine removal

[Goofyexponent]

Also, want to do as much if not all of this by myself. I've never done ANY bodywork, no experience on remounting fenders, getting them aligned etc....

Drill holes in the tabs where the fenders mount big enough to stick a old drill bit into BEFORE you take the fenders off. Thay way you just line up the holes by sticking the old bits back into the hole and tighten the bolts back up when you put the fenders back on. I done it when I pulled the motor out of my old powerstroke and it worked ok, then I changed to a 1990 front clip and .....that's another story.

 

[icanfixall]

I have been following this for some time and now I'm wondering if a valve dropped and that stopped the motor suddenly. Anything else would have made lots of strange noises when it let go. A broken crank would possibily turn from the front or back but somewhat less than a full turn. Heres hopeing its nothing really bad.

 

[ferrellmedia]

I had to cut the manifold to exaust flange bolts today, they were way too rusted and three days of soaking in WD40 they were still not budging even with a 1/2" impact wrench.

Bought a 7.00 air powered cutting wheel from harbor frieght, (love the selection quality is terrible) worked perfectly got the passenger side cut today, cut the drivers tomorrow. The tools works great, my ****** small compressor is being overworked and need to stop and let it catch it's breath, time for an upgrade!

Dropped the oil cooler, but unable to wiggle out in either forward or rear direction. I'm wondering if an engine can go in our out with that on? If not what is the process for ensuring a great seal when re-installing?

Will work on the tranny bolts tomorrow and I'm thinking due to the requirement that I pull the torque converter with the motor, I will need the transmission jack to raise as I raise the motor out. I was thinking jacks would work but in thinking it thru tonight, that transmission will raise with the motor at lease 4-8 inches as I begin to pull the engine, the tranny will need to come with it....any thoughts??

Also, the motor mounts look straight forward, but wanted to check, my assumption is to take out the 4 nuts from the underside and I expect the mounts will stay attached to the engine when I pull it, is this a correct assumption?

For anyone wanting to follow via pictures, I'm taking pictures as I go, not able to post them all and not all on time, but lots posted here:
http://community.webshots.com/user/ferrellmedia

"icanfixall", I hope your right, but I heard NOTHING, no metal/metal sounds, just a violent stopping which in turn shook the entire truck. I would say it acted just as I would expect if the cylinder was attempting to compress liquid.

My best guess at this point is EITHER stuck injector flooding cylinder with fuel, OR cavitation got to number 8 and anti-freeze entered cylinder....

I'm travelling tomorrow to look at this rebuilt 7.3 for 1700.00, (which I think is an incredible deal) and so far I feel realy comfortable with the "back-story" and I will trust my gut.

I don't think I could rebuild this motor for that price doing the work myself, (which I don't think I could do without the extremely likely risk of making a very expensive mistake). I can tear it down, but I know it takes experience to do a complete sucessfull and zero mistake rebuild.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes... The mounts can stay on the motor but... Remove them from the block bracket when you reinstall the motor. It makes it so much easier to makeup the motor to the trans... I learned that from Oldmrbill... Great guy too and thanks for learning an old guy a new trick......

 

[RLDSL]

Little hint ,wd40 is not really a penatrating oil, IT is a water displacer( hence the WD ) you could soak till the cows come home and bolts will still be stuck with that stuff. You need to get a can of Aero Kroil if you want to save on the cutting wheel work next time

 

[obinella]

Saw this over on another forum and thought some of you might find it useful:


Quote:
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.


They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

 

[ferrellmedia]

Got the motor out tonight

OK, the motor is out, WHAT A JOB!

Actually it wasn't too bad, just a very big engine.

Those new swivel box end ratcheting wrenches really paid for themselves today. Those work perfectly on the top transmission bolts, they were easier than the bottom bolts.

I will finally figure out what went wrong with this engine tomorrow, pulling the oil pan first, then the heads, crossing my fingers it's something fixable.

So far I've purchased a 2 ton engine hoist $170.00, 2.5 ton engine stand $120.00, 4 ton load leveler $ 29.00, $7.00 air powered cut-off wheel (used it to cut exaust bolts, $50.00 wrench set (needed them anyway), and really was able to get buy with my ALL TRADE socket set and lots of labor!
Plus some additional things like gloves, hand cleaner, etc....

Total probably around 400.00 or so.

Pictures turned out dark today.

 

[ferrellmedia]

JURY IS IN DAMMIT!!!!!!



It was cavitation in what I think is the #8 cylinder, further to back of truck on passenger side.

That cylinder was rusted and looked like it had been running like that for some time.

Truck had 156K miles and that is EXACTLY the timeframe everyone gives them without SCA's.

Now, should I buy the rebuild 7.3 for 1700.00, (which I have a good feeling about but cannot get the details on because the guy who built it is dead)....

OR

Try to find a machine shop somewhere here in south florida and have the block sleeved and the entire engine reworked?

I get the feeling, (although I must admit I have not priced it) that the sleeving and rebuilding will cost far more than 1700.....

Thoughts.......

It's sad to because the entire engine looks perfect, like the day it rolled off the showroom on the inside....

 

[Mat J]

glad you got it out ok. there are alot of people here who have had bad luck with sleeving blocks. the rebuilt 7.3 your looking at might be sleeved to, and you definatly dont want one bored over.

There is a 7.3 idi over by me in lake worth for i think 600 out of a van. its on the craigs list if you want to look at it.

 

[ferrellmedia]

I've read a lot both pro and con against re-sleeving 7.3's and after all the reading I think it can be done right if done by someone who has done it before, that belief along with the fact that EVERYTIHNG ELSE on this truck is in PERFECT CONDITION leads me toward re-sleeving.

Went to a few local shops, the local ford dealer, and found one machine shop kept coming up for the deisels.

Called said shop and went for a visit. This guys shop is spotless, the 7.3 would be the smallest he ever works on, had a crank on the floor, no kidding, was over 9ft long, it was amazing. Does a lot of LARGE equipment diesel work, large marine diesel rebuilds, etc...

He will bore and sleeve all 8, prepare block, new pistons, magna flux, etc, polish or turn crank (depending on current state), and rebuild heads for approx 3000.00 total including parts out the door.

That 3000.00 for a motor where I know EXACTLY what I have vs the 1700.00 for an unknown, (definately not cleaned and fluxed block/heads) rebuild, seems to be the way I'm leaning.

The shop, in case anyone knows it, is Terrill Machine in Ft. lauderdale off Sunrise blvd.

I met the owner, really nice guy, took me thru his shop and answered any/all of my questions, made me feel really comfortable that he not only knew what he was talking about, but his shop was immaculate and he had all the equipment in his shop, VERY NICE!

 

[Mat J]

cool sounds like a good shop.

 

[RLDSL]

I've read a lot both pro and con against re-sleeving 7.3's and after all the reading I think it can be done right if done by someone who has done it before, that belief along with the fact that EVERYTIHNG ELSE on this truck is in PERFECT CONDITION leads me toward re-sleeving.

Went to a few local shops, the local ford dealer, and found one machine shop kept coming up for the deisels.

Called said shop and went for a visit. This guys shop is spotless, the 7.3 would be the smallest he ever works on, had a crank on the floor, no kidding, was over 9ft long, it was amazing. Does a lot of LARGE equipment diesel work, large marine diesel rebuilds, etc...

He will bore and sleeve all 8, prepare block, new pistons, magna flux, etc, polish or turn crank (depending on current state), and rebuild heads for approx 3000.00 total including parts out the door.

That 3000.00 for a motor where I know EXACTLY what I have vs the 1700.00 for an unknown, (definately not cleaned and fluxed block/heads) rebuild, seems to be the way I'm leaning.

The shop, in case anyone knows it, is Terrill Machine in Ft. lauderdale off Sunrise blvd.

I met the owner, really nice guy, took me thru his shop and answered any/all of my questions, made me feel really comfortable that he not only knew what he was talking about, but his shop was immaculate and he had all the equipment in his shop, VERY NICE!

That's the kind of place you want working on a diesel Not a shop that works on everything under the sun. THis is the place that does all my machine work, and they do some beautiful work, and I'll bet everyone in that place has had at least two hernias from the size of most of the parts they deal with It's also where the IH dealer has all their rebuilds done

 

[ferrellmedia]

I would like to get this running again as economically as possible without needing to rebuild it again in two years.

I was originally going to bore and re-sleeve all 8 cylinders.

I've read too much already and I'm concerned over the failure rate of boring and re-sleeving a 7.3, and especially a 7.3 which was known to not have the SCA levels maintained.

Knowing that this block NEVER had SCA levels maintained, what is the path which others would take with this engine?

Background - engine has 156k miles, oil was changed reg and inside engine shows VERY WELL

WORTH NOTING:
Each rod has what looks to be a "blueing" of the metal seeping up the rod about 1/2" where it connects to the crank, never seen this before.

I'm thinking I might want to only bore and re-sleeve the back two cylinders with new pistons and replace the bent rod.

Dissasemble the rest of the block noting cylinders and rod direction, have the block cleaned, freeze plugs replaced and 7 and 8 cylinders bored and re-sleeved, heads rebuilt, add the two new pistons along with the 6 older pistons, re-use the crank, and rebuild the heads......

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

[Agnem]

Tough call. You could definitely get an already rebuilt short block for that kind of money. The shop sounds first rate. If you opt to resleeve, I would get all 8 done, and see if you can make a 7 liter out of it, or do something to get the walls thickened up some. Maybe use the largest oversize 6.9 piston or something.

 

[obinella]

from what i understand , some machine shops are gluing the sleeves in, not a good idea. sleeves should have a step machined on them that mates to a step machined in the block which locks them in. also wet sleeves have seals that prevent coolant from leaking at the top and bottom. your caveatted cylinder, to me , would be a wet sleeve and i would be suspicious of a coolant seep. antifreeze tends to leak through macroscopic pin holes where water wouldn't. check with your machinist for his thoughts on these points.