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1988 F250 4x4 auto trans ya Know What Sucks > > >

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by HammerDown, Feb 19, 2021.

  1. Randy Bush

    Randy Bush Full Access Member

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    That is like mine, and the casting the large bolts screws into is broken. So guess I was not off base then.

    Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk
     
  2. HammerDown

    HammerDown Full Access Member

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    Thanks so much for the pictures!
     
  3. HammerDown

    HammerDown Full Access Member

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    3. There is also a side pivot arm (controls entry into low range) that may have come loose from the main bracket. This would have similar symptoms to #1.

    ^^^ are you able to elaborate a little more about your #3 description?
    We got hammered again with now so, I wasn't able to get under my truck.
    I wonder if this bolt came out???
     
  4. HammerDown

    HammerDown Full Access Member

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    What would that cast part with the large bolt be called?
    Trying to see if Rock Auto etc may offer it.
     
  5. david85

    david85 Full Access Member

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    No problem. Let's try this:

    Transfer case shift linkage discriptions.JPG

    Alright, I kept the numbering the same like before to try and avoid confusion. I also labelled more of the components, since I'm having hard time finding a correct era drawing online that shows all the part numbers. I keep finding plenty of pot-metal 1992-up setups, but nothing for these, because apparently they never fail (ok, bad joke....)

    1. Big pivot bolt. This is what allows the shift knob to swing forward and backward. If this came loose, everything tries to fall down without much of a snag until it hangs up between the rubber boot, and the link (#5).

    2. This is where the shift lever attaches with two bolts (6mm, I think...). Those bolts thread into the side pivot mechanism. Honestly, I'm not sure what it's called. Like I said, I can't seem to find a diagram online for this era.

    3. Side pivot mechanism. The pointer is aimed at the sideways pivot bolt I described earlier. If this comes loose it will easily lift up, but will seem to snag on something if you try to put the lever back where it should be. This assumes the main swing arm (#1) is still in position.

    4. The steel plate has a spigot that prevents you from shifting straight from high range into low range. To clear this detent, you pull the lever to the driver's side by pivoting on item #3. Mine's worn out, but this basically sets your mechanical neutral position on the shift linkage for the transfer case. A rubber spring under the side pivot arm maintains tension toward the passenger side. This steel plate isn't likely your problem.

    5. Link from shift lever to transfer case. If the shift lever is still held in the same position and can swing through it's normal range of motion, but without any resistance, chances are this fell off. There are plastic bushings that wear out after a while, but the help section of the autoparts store may have them. I just order some on Amazon the other night:

    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CO96R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    6. Don't think this item needs too much explanation, but if all else fails you might be able to knock this into 4H with a mallet from underneath the truck. You can use the shift ball as a guide to which detent does what, but remember the sequence will be reversed (2H at the rear of travel, and 4L at the front). Make sure to secure the truck VERY well if you attempt shifting it while underneath, because if you pop the transfer case into neutral, your transmission is also in neutral!
     
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  6. david85

    david85 Full Access Member

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    One more thing. Have you tried to unscrew and lift up the shifter boot yet? You should be able to gain good access from the top, rather than tunneling through all that snow under the truck. Have a look at the video below:



    EDIT: LOL Looks like he had "fun" with it:

     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2021
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  7. HammerDown

    HammerDown Full Access Member

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    David, you ARE THE MAN!
    I pulled the boot and the two small bolts are GONE!
    However, the female receiving threads are still there.
    Are they metric, do you know the size?
    It seems like 5/16 or 8mm but I don't have metric taps to clean up the holes.
    20210223_155707.jpg
     
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  8. HammerDown

    HammerDown Full Access Member

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    Ugh... see above thread.
    I need bolt size and thread pitch, I believe they may be metric but I don't have metric tap set to clean up the holes.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2021
  9. david85

    david85 Full Access Member

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    Well, that's an easy fix.:Thumbs Up

    I'm 100% sure they are metric. I can't check on my truck because I ended up welding mine on. Got tired of it coming loose!

    I originally tried to re-tap it to 1/4" but didn't work, so I welded instead (Yes, I used to hack things when I was younger). I wouldn't have been able to cut anything off with a 1/4" tap if the hole were 8mm, so I'm pretty sure its 6mm, but not sure of the exact pitch. My guess is 1.0mm pitch.

    Just be sure to get the high grade 10.9 strength, or you could end up here again real soon.
     
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  10. HammerDown

    HammerDown Full Access Member

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    I'm thinking M6x1 ... don't think Home Depot will have
    Why didn't the retap work, it's just metal?
    I'm too thinking M6x1.0 ... don't think Home Depot will have grade 8 in the metric cabinets.
    You're efforts are appreciated, thank you.
     
  11. david85

    david85 Full Access Member

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    Retap didn't work in my case because the channel on the lever mating face was already sloppy and would work the screws loose. And 6mm is pretty close to 1/4", so there may not have been enough bite in the threads. At any rate, welding solved the problem permanently and I can still remove the linkage with a little more time.

    Easiest way is to still go with the M 6x1.0, if you can find them. Try Napa or some other auto parts store. Amazon can be fast with delivery as well, depending on how close you are to a major center.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2021
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  12. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    When you replace the bolts, be sure to put some Lok Tite on them so they don't disappear on you again.
     
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  13. HammerDown

    HammerDown Full Access Member

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    You guys are awesome; replaced the two metric bolts and used red loctite and all is good again.
    Great tips and awesome pictures...I thank you!
     
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  14. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    The worst part was waiting for all the snow to melt out from beneath your truck so you could see what actually happened.
     
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  15. HammerDown

    HammerDown Full Access Member

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    It was iced up pretty good!
    I should have removed the interior rubber boot first, but didn't know what let loose or busted off.
    Could have been much worse.
     
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