The wife would divorce me lol she is a speed additic but has a cost effective mind she flipped on the price if things I want for a spare rigYeah but, we all know you really want a Baja idi
Coil over springs on a obs idi ?
- Thread starter Jason1377
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BR3
Full Access Member
Speaking with quite a bit of coilover experience having rebuilt/installed several setups over the years working at a 4x4 shop, I can say they can be set up to handle weight well more than an obs could dream of, actually owned a setup at one point I was gonna run, but didn't like the extra lift it would have put on my already 9" over stock dually. Take a look at fabtechs dirtlogic 4.0 kit. That's what I had.
The real problem with a coilover setup on an old body style and using it for work is the characteristics being so much different than what people are expecting in a work rig. They soak up bumps rather than translate them, and if you make the spring stiff enough to alleviate body roll,don't actually make the ride Comfort better.As well as cost effectiveness. It's just not logical really to put a $10k suspension on an $8k work truck. And those are realistic numbers even for cheaper true setups even with Fab skills.
Ive beaten the ttb tire wear horse to death, there are no bad ttbs, only bad/misinformed ttb owners.
If you're looking for a cost-effective way to improve turning radius, follow Ford's example with the later "widetrack" super duty trucks. Get some very high quality wheel spacers, a stock f350 (strait, instead of factory 250 minor drop) pitman arm, and shorten the steering stops. Then you turn great, and handle better too.
I personally just put a super duty could sprung 60 in my truck. Turns circles around my ttb, but not an install for someone with no Fab skills and a light wallet. You have to have one or the other haha
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The real problem with a coilover setup on an old body style and using it for work is the characteristics being so much different than what people are expecting in a work rig. They soak up bumps rather than translate them, and if you make the spring stiff enough to alleviate body roll,don't actually make the ride Comfort better.As well as cost effectiveness. It's just not logical really to put a $10k suspension on an $8k work truck. And those are realistic numbers even for cheaper true setups even with Fab skills.
Ive beaten the ttb tire wear horse to death, there are no bad ttbs, only bad/misinformed ttb owners.
If you're looking for a cost-effective way to improve turning radius, follow Ford's example with the later "widetrack" super duty trucks. Get some very high quality wheel spacers, a stock f350 (strait, instead of factory 250 minor drop) pitman arm, and shorten the steering stops. Then you turn great, and handle better too.
I personally just put a super duty could sprung 60 in my truck. Turns circles around my ttb, but not an install for someone with no Fab skills and a light wallet. You have to have one or the other haha
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austin92
Full Access Member
Would different offset rims be ok in place of the wheel spacers? I’d love to pick your brain on d50 mods but I don’t wanna hijack the thread lol
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Maybe one of us would be slick enough to start a new D50 Improvement thread! In the meantime, quick question, how much of a spacer is needed? And where do you recommend the high-quality spacers come from? Is the 350 pitman arm a direct bolt on? Sorry for the hijack
BR3
Full Access Member
Yea different rims would be fine, they are just more expensive.
Fred goersk makes billet steel spacers. Pricey,but cheaper than new rims. I think the standard size is 2"
Yup f350 pitman arm just slides right on
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Fred goersk makes billet steel spacers. Pricey,but cheaper than new rims. I think the standard size is 2"
Yup f350 pitman arm just slides right on
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Thanks friend! I found the Goeske spacers. $370 is pricy but but quality stuff is. I've got a 94, any idea what year range pitman would fit?
BR3
Full Access Member
The ones you want came off the solid axle trucks only, 85'+ trucks. I believe actually the e99 super duty pitman arm works too, but I'm gray on that one.
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So safe to say any 85 to 95 solid front axle 350 pitman arm will work? I'm pretty tight on cash, would just the adjustments and the Pitman arm gain me anything?
BR3
Full Access Member
Yes, but it would also be negligible, because your tires would rub the leaf springs and especially prevent any additional angle. That's your limit factor in the factory setup really.
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Thanks!
Okay so I guess I did hijack the thread
So my big question is, is a solid axle D60 swap much better then the improved D50?
So my big question is, is a solid axle D60 swap much better then the improved D50?
If the goal is coil springs, one could copy the 1/2 ton design. Use oem coil spring buckets and coils. Radius arms would not be terribly difficult to fabricate, but a 2wd f250 or half ton radius arms might be worth starting with.
BR3
Full Access Member
In regards to coil springs look at this link
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...-dana-50-full-swap.html#/topics/198373?page=1
On the 60, kinnda depends on your goals. Cost effectiveness? Not really if you already have a perfectly good working 50. In real terms, you might notice a slightly better ride, but in true terms if you broke something on ttb 50 you probably would have broken the same thing on a solid 60 too with what you were doing. And you can make them steer as well with what we had said.
You just don't get to say "I did a 60 swap" hahaha
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...-dana-50-full-swap.html#/topics/198373?page=1
On the 60, kinnda depends on your goals. Cost effectiveness? Not really if you already have a perfectly good working 50. In real terms, you might notice a slightly better ride, but in true terms if you broke something on ttb 50 you probably would have broken the same thing on a solid 60 too with what you were doing. And you can make them steer as well with what we had said.
You just don't get to say "I did a 60 swap" hahaha
so basically if I want to save coin/talk the wife into letting me have a 3rd rig for well testing different things that would in the end be the f250 frankistien.
a d60 or d50 with Fab work will be just fine for a farm/8 miles of rough dirt/pot hole/ chit asphalt would not eat tires that are way high price. A stock front axle would be ?as well as back axel would be.
since we have stock limited slip axle can it be made into full on duel tire roast if wanted to sling rubber, with out changing the axel.
Also why are the back wheel hub n studs so deep can u run dual tires.
a d60 or d50 with Fab work will be just fine for a farm/8 miles of rough dirt/pot hole/ chit asphalt would not eat tires that are way high price. A stock front axle would be ?as well as back axel would be.
since we have stock limited slip axle can it be made into full on duel tire roast if wanted to sling rubber, with out changing the axel.
Also why are the back wheel hub n studs so deep can u run dual tires.
BR3
Full Access Member
Let's see if I can hit this in order
- a Dana 50 or 60 that has been well maintained (i.e. bushings incl.) would be just fine with a decent set of shocks for the task at hand.
- 80-96 f250 will have a ttb 50, 85-96 f350 will have a 60
- you can weld/spool/lock the rear end quite easily without axle removal, however, if you live in an area with frequent snow that you need to drive through, I would advise against a non slectable type ( that turns on and off)
-probably cheaper at the time Ford was buying studs to buy that size in bulk. Dually rims/tires will rub the leaf springs if you try to run them. As for the hub,that's just what full floating axles look like
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- a Dana 50 or 60 that has been well maintained (i.e. bushings incl.) would be just fine with a decent set of shocks for the task at hand.
- 80-96 f250 will have a ttb 50, 85-96 f350 will have a 60
- you can weld/spool/lock the rear end quite easily without axle removal, however, if you live in an area with frequent snow that you need to drive through, I would advise against a non slectable type ( that turns on and off)
-probably cheaper at the time Ford was buying studs to buy that size in bulk. Dually rims/tires will rub the leaf springs if you try to run them. As for the hub,that's just what full floating axles look like
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