Torque specs dana 50 hub.

notenuftime

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Any one have correct torque specs for the inner and outer hub nuts. If i can remember 50lbs inner then back off quarter turn, outer somthing around 100lbs. Not sure on these, need verification thanks.
 

Macrobb

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It's a matter of torquing it down while spinning the hub until a certain amount of in/lbs of torque is required to spin the hub.

What *I* do is simply torque the inner nut down while spinning the hub by hand - as you get it tight, you'll start to feel resistance due to the bearing preload. Back it off a bit - until you stop feeling so much resistance, it feels like it spins freely, and there is no play in the assembly.

The outer nut, well, I cheat and just put my dewalt impact on it, give it medium ugga-duggas until it stops. <_<

Put the tire and such on it, then push/pull at the top of the tire. If it's moving in/out, you may be too loose... or you might have a ball-joint going bad. Have a helper push/pull while you watch for what's moving around the back side.

Drive it around the block and check the hub for heat. If it's getting hot(and not due to riding the brakes), you might loosen it just a tad.
 

gerlbaum

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It's a matter of torquing it down while spinning the hub until a certain amount of in/lbs of torque is required to spin the hub.

What *I* do is simply torque the inner nut down while spinning the hub by hand - as you get it tight, you'll start to feel resistance due to the bearing preload. Back it off a bit - until you stop feeling so much resistance, it feels like it spins freely, and there is no play in the assembly.

The outer nut, well, I cheat and just put my dewalt impact on it, give it medium ugga-duggas until it stops. <_<

Put the tire and such on it, then push/pull at the top of the tire. If it's moving in/out, you may be too loose... or you might have a ball-joint going bad. Have a helper push/pull while you watch for what's moving around the back side.

Drive it around the block and check the hub for heat. If it's getting hot(and not due to riding the brakes), you might loosen it just a tad.


Exactly. I like it to spin at least 1 rev, but less than 2. There should be some resistance.
 

Clb

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From the 93 fsm
While rotating the hub back and forth, tighten inner nut to 50 ft lb. ,to seat bearing,
Back off and re tighten inner nut to 30-40 ft lb.,while rotating hub back and forth.
Back off nut 90*, install lockwasher and align pin to nearest hole while tightening.
Install outter nut and tourque to160-205 ft lb.
Check final end play of spindle ...
Should be 0.00-0.11 mm, 0.000-0.004 inch
Torque required to rotate hub and rotor is not to exeed 2.3 nm ,20 inch lbs
 

notenuftime

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From the 93 fsm
While rotating the hub back and forth, tighten inner nut to 50 ft lb. ,to seat bearing,
Back off and re tighten inner nut to 30-40 ft lb.,while rotating hub back and forth.
Back off nut 90*, install lockwasher and align pin to nearest hole while tightening.
Install outter nut and tourque to160-205 ft lb.
Check final end play of spindle ...
Should be 0.00-0.11 mm, 0.000-0.004 inch
Torque required to rotate hub and rotor is not to exeed 2.3 nm ,20 inch lbs
That seems like alot of torque for outer nut, i went 50lbs for inner 65lbs for outer, thats what i ended up reading the most. No play in hub.
 

Clb

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You asked for the "correct" specs...... And I gave you the fsm wording and specs, so you do whatever interpretation of the specs you want.
I got nuthing from the shadetree diy perspective for ya.

the above sugestions will all work....[/QUOTE]
 

notenuftime

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You asked for the "correct" specs...... And I gave you the fsm wording and specs, so you do whatever interpretation of the specs you want.
I got nuthing from the shadetree diy perspective for ya.
the above sugestions will all work....
[/QUOTE]
Looks like I'll go ahead and crank it down some more haha.
 

Macrobb

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The outer nut is just a jam nut - it needs to be tight enough to prevent it from ever wiggling loose. The torque here won't affect bearing preload.
 

notenuftime

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The outer nut is just a jam nut - it needs to be tight enough to prevent it from ever wiggling loose. The torque here won't affect bearing preload.
I figured it was something like that when i was looking at the hub for the first time, I'm still going to give it a little more lbs just to be safe. When i first did my wheel bearings a couple months ago i torqued the nuts to 50 and 65lbs and ran like that till now. It may not be spec but i was fine.
 

nelstomlinson

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From the 93 fsm
While rotating the hub back and forth, tighten inner nut to 50 ft lb. ,to seat bearing,
Back off and re tighten inner nut to 30-40 ft lb.,while rotating hub back and forth.
Back off nut 90*, install lockwasher and align pin to nearest hole while tightening.
Install outer nut and torque to160-205 ft lb.
Check final end play of spindle ...
Should be 0.00-0.11 mm, 0.000-0.004 inch
Torque required to rotate hub and rotor is not to exceed 2.3 nm ,20 inch lbs

That is roughly what my '89 manual calls for on my Dana 60 front axle. I thought that backing off the full 120 degrees that the '89 manual calls for was way too far, so I backed off about 45 degrees, and my hubs started to heat up. I loosened them, then tightened to 35 ft-lbs, then backed them off a little over 90 degrees, and so far so good.

I would definitely tighten that outer jam nut to the full suggested torque.
 

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