E4OD-what did I do to it

[nostrokes]

So I talked to a stealership around here. Parts guy was no help. Gave him the part numbers and all he did was look up my truck info and just tell me the e9tz is it. Asked him if the f2tz was the updated part number, he told me he doesn't know because all he could look at was the old part compared to my truck info. Told me it's obsolete, I said so is everything else for it, his reply was well its old...

Such a waste, these guys just stare at the computer and say I don't know. Seems they just want to sell you hats and crap and not really do their job.

Upside is I stopped at a tranny shop on a whim and asked them. Guy spent 10 minutes in the shop and walked through the door with one in hand. Asked him how much and he replied how much cash you got? Walked out with the part for 10 bucks..... Now to just find time to get it back together.. too bad my tags expired at midnight Thursday....

 

[nostrokes]

Alright guys, got the "new" detent spring in. Trans is all buttoned up, adjusted the mlps and the shift linkage still no start. Went back and adjusted everything again still nothing. Adjusted it all again, nothing. Bumped the starter by jumping the solenoid and it turns over fine.

I pulled the mlps and it has the updated connector. Stuck a dvom to the internal (trans side of the case) front and rear pins and got no reading. Is the mlps shot?? I tried finding a test but all I found was what I did already.

Everything worked fine before, now I have nothing. Switch in the cab was new 3 years ago and working fine.

 

[franklin2]

In the harness going down to the trans switch from the ignition is a red/lightblue stripe wire. Right at the switch it changes to a white/pink. Coming out of the trans switch to the starter relay is another red/lightblue wire. If you can twist or jump these wires together, see if it will crank then. If it does, then you know it's the trans switch.

 

[nostrokes]

Wish I wasn't color blind and of course I'm the only one here...


I'll have a look

 

[franklin2]

That is tough. Even if you weren't, it' still hard to see the colors sometimes, they get old and the colors fade out and are hard to make out. Take a look at the wire going to the s terminal on the starter solenoid. It's red/blue, maybe you can recognize it underneath the truck.

 

[nostrokes]

You must be registered for see images attach

8 & 5???

 

[nostrokes]

That did it... Must be a bad switch

 

[nostrokes]

Any suggestions for where to get a new one?? Thinking NAPA??

 

[trackspeeder]

Napa will work. Any of the parts joints will have it.

 

[saburai]

Wish I wasn't color blind and of course I'm the only one here...


I'll have a look

Oh that's gotta suck
Maybe you could snap a picture and post it? Don't know if that's a practical or possible thing, but I'm sure one of us might be able to identify the wires...

Edited to add:

I didn't read to the end, glad you got it covered!

 

[nostrokes]

Oh that's gotta suck
Maybe you could snap a picture and post it? Don't know if that's a practical or possible thing, but I'm sure one of us might be able to identify the wires...

Edited to add:

I didn't read to the end, glad you got it covered!

Yeah it really sucks most of the time, makes wiring fixes fun.. Had to have my daughter help id wires when I did the trailer plug.

 

[nostrokes]

Well we're back up and running. Still not road ready, my tags are over expired so now I've got to get a temp tag to really get her out and hammered...

Did take it for a short trip (shhhh don't tell the sheriff) seems to have a slight vibration while going down the road, think I may need to flip the drive line 180. Or it could just be the fact it hasn't moved much in quite a while and everything is stiff like me..

Also noticed it's getting hot, about 210* and is taking a while to cool off. New t-stat about a year ago so I'm not suspecting it at this point. Haven't dipped the coolant yet to test sca and may have an air bubble that needs bled out but I'll have to wait to do that when it's daylight out..

She definitely needs to be run out, lots of black smoke when I wrap up the rpms at a standstill witch is a new situation.. but it did that before when it sat for a long time and cleared up after running it for an hour at a time multiple times..

Thanks everyone that chimed in to all my uneducated questions, it really helped work through my lack of anything with auto tranny's. I'm sure I'll have more after I get to take her out and shake her down for more issues so be prepared for the *** thoughts.

Once I get it all tagged up it'll probably be off to the tranny shop for a pump seal, should've done it before, but it wasn't leaking untill now

 

[nostrokes]

Well guys like I said get ready for more *** questions...

I ran my truck the other night. Checked and checked and checked the tranny fluid.. as far as I can tell it was good. Truck ran for over an hour, should have been plenty warm. Looked good as far as I could tell, the high side of the fluid was within range as best as I could see (hard to see it with new fluid).

This morning after work stopped over to clean up my mess at my brother in law's welding shop, fired her up and let her run for about 20 minutes while I cleaned. Went out and put it in reverse, nothing.. put it in drive and nothing.. gave it some throttle and bam into drive it went and moved. Drove it around the yard and no issues going into gear. I didn't check the fluid because it was still cold, can't get it out yet cause of the expired plates.

It does not have the check ball in the return line, never has since I've owned it, probably hasn't for a long time. Worked fine with no lag going into gear before. I did adapt in some 3/8 lines but haven't found a check valve yet, not sure what opening psi it needs...

I'm thinking the converter is leaking down causing it to not engage till I get the rpm up and it refills. If I put a loop in the return line, rubber line going coming from the cooler, could that possibly help till I find a check valve??

 

[Thewespaul]

Are your cooler lines still going through the radiator? If so then the coolant should heat up the trans fluid enough to check it I would think, I would try to make it work with how you plan on using the coolers instead of bypassing them and then having to go through more changes once you hook up the coolers.

 

[trackspeeder]

The converter will leak down without a check valve.

If you are upgrading to 3/8" lines. You a 4R100 bypass. It will give you the required valve and 3/8" parts.