Shag Wagon Revival

genscripter

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Thanks guys for all the positive feedback!!!

Side note:
Just picked up all the supplies needed to paint the beast! Once this rain stops It's getting a metallic blue finish rolled on with bedliner across the bottom.

Skip the money for paint and invest in good fuel lines, return caps and seals. They aren't that expensive, even for a california college student. :)
 

Ianthomas59

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My 84 E350 did not come with cruise control. I pulled the stuff of another van. The servo has full vacuum, there is no dump valve. The brake light disingages it.

I just replaced mine with this. I have had one on my 65 Mustang for a couple years. The only part in the engine compartment is the cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZCQD9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I too replaced my van diesel filterhead with the R&D IDI Performance Stage 1 filter setup on the frame rail. It's so nice to free up room in the engine bay to get better access to the driver's side injectors.

Link to filter setup: http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p62/R&D_Fuel_Systems.html



You guys are giving me great advice! However, I am extremely poor at the moment lol... In a few months I'll have started my first job out of college and can scroll back through to order up all the parts out of budget. Hell, then I may even pay a diesel mechanic to do a quick diagnostic for me!

Until then, It's 50-100 mods :cool
 

Ianthomas59

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https://www.mcmaster.com/#viton-fluoroelastomer-rubber-seals/=1bycjlg


Edit: I don't know what is going on. I post the link and it always defaults to the wrong size.

Search for "brown viton seals size 111"

That'll get you the seals you need. If you don't want viton seals, then just use the regular seals in the kit you bought from rockauto.


Ordered up the seals. Painful getting two of the same thing but I trust the "viton" seals are a worthy upgrade to avoid redoing whatever headache of a job I just signed myself into lol

Will these injectors be at their best after new O rings? Or do they deteriorate in some other way?
 
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genscripter

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Will these injectors be at their best after new O rings? Or do they deteriorate in some other way?

Hard to say. Did the PO tell you how old the injectors are? I'm sure doing new return lines and seals and caps will help with the hard starting, cuz you might be losing your prime.

Since you are on a budget, I'd say try running the injectors as is and hope they last. But if the injectors are at or above 100K, you are running on borrowed time.
 

Ianthomas59

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Hard to say. Did the PO tell you how old the injectors are? I'm sure doing new return lines and seals and caps will help with the hard starting, cuz you might be losing your prime.

Since you are on a budget, I'd say try running the injectors as is and hope they last. But if the injectors are at or above 100K, you are running on borrowed time.

He didn't. The PO was a young college kid who lived in Santa Barbara. Judging from his failed attempt at replacing the power steering pump I'd say he didn't replace them in his year of ownership. The owner before him spray painted his and his girlfriend's initials on the roof so doubt he did much maintenance either besides the new batteries lol. I'm betting they're original. I'm seeing injectors going for a pretty penny. Do you guys have any recommendations for reasonably priced/reliable ones I can install with the seals and return lines?
 

IDIBRONCO

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There's only three places to buy good quality pumps and injectors for these engines. Justin at R&D IDI Performance, Mel (member Agnem on here) at Conestoga Diesel, and Russ (me,member Typ4 on here) who does them on his own. ANY other place you can get them or have them rebuilt will not have the quality of these three. These may be the absolute cheapest places to buy from, but it's better to spend a little more the first time then to try to go cheap and then have to buy quality. Yes that's experience talking here. I WON'T make that mistake again.
 

Ianthomas59

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I know all about that mistake. I’m afraid to ask how much you sell them for?

Viton seals and return line kit came in the mail today. At a standstill now until I get new injectors.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I’m afraid to ask how much you sell them for?
If I understand the question right, I think I paid about $900 to have my pump and injectors rebuilt and around $1200 for a Moose Jr. and a set of new BB injectors. It's been a while and I could be off some on the prices.
 

Ianthomas59

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If I understand the question right, I think I paid about $900 to have my pump and injectors rebuilt and around $1200 for a Moose Jr. and a set of new BB injectors. It's been a while and I could be off some on the prices.

My mistake, I misread your post and thought you said you were one of the sellers. I looked up one of their websites and it looked like a good 300$ for the set. Going to have to wait :/


On another note, took off the front wheels last night looking for a way to lift up the front end 2 inches. The coils have sagged over the years. Seems like I can weld a spacer into the lower coil pad if I buy a longer bolt. Unfortunately its going to be a pain to get a socket in there to loosen it up. I'm sure the bolt hasn't moved since it left the factory.
 

Ianthomas59

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Hey guys, quick update...

Recently I installed a new trailer brake wiring kit and that worked flawlessly when I towed a u haul up to Santa Clara!

Now onto a new question:
When I first start the van almost every time it revs up pretty high for about 10-20 seconds before peaking and then returning to a somewhat normal idle. Looking at the injection pump there are some random return springs on the throttle that don’t look correct and don’t pull the throttle far enough closer imo.

Does this sound like I need replacement springs or (god help me) a rebuilt injection pump? Thanks in advance!
 

Ianthomas59

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Also more updates:
Working on making two cylindrical spacers to mount underneath the front coil spring. I got a section of 3.5” OD tube and am welding thick plate on each side with a hole on the middle for the mounting bolts. I got 2” longer bolts from fastenal yesterday so just waiting on time to finish cutting/welding the blocks before installing them. Super ready to get rid of the annoying tire rub when turning.

Also still waiting on a good time to paint the beast. Have all paint and materials so it’ll probably happen late next week.

Thanks again in advance to responses to my question above about my injection pump!
 

Thewespaul

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Can you take a picture of the return spring configuration? You could have a sticking metering valve in your pump, you can try filling a new fuel filter with atf then starting and running it till the atf is in the pump, then leaving it overnight to sit and help lift any contaminates.
 
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