Retorquing ARP head studs

[IDIoit]

i have about an hour or so on my engine on the test stand.
its gone through 4-5 heat cycles.
figured its a good time to get it up to temp 1 more time, and then retorque to 125 ft lbs.
WHILE WARM.

id like to do this out of the truck to save myself the hastle.

do you think im good to go, or should i put actual miles on it?

 

[jwalterus]

YES
















take it how you will

 

[Hydro-idi]

Never felt the need to re-torque the studs. If it was a crutial step, I'm sure ARP would have mentioned it in their installation instructions. Just my .02. Lots have done it without any probs tho

 

[BioFarmer93]

Which grows more when hot- head studs or cast iron? When building two stroke racing engines we always heat cycled them twice then let them go dead cold before re-torquing them. I can't imagine that the tendencies of expansion and contraction of our engines would be so different as to warrant a warm re-torque. If you're turboing this one then you might want to go ahead and take them on up to 145 ft lbs.

 

[tbrumm]

I thought the re-torque on the ARP studs was no longer necessary when using the special ARP lube. A re-torque is certainly not part of the ARP instructions that come with the stud kit. However, since the engine is still out and easy to work on, I would say it is not a bad idea either. Not everybody has an engine run stand to heat cycle the engine a few times after stud install.

 

[IDIoit]

i dont know why, it cost me 30 dollars
money well spent IMO

 

[OLDBULL8]

Don't know if your planing on backing them off then retighten. How I would do it would just torque them up like in the 3rd 4th steps sequence, just bring them up to whatever torque your planing on.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

I wouldnt break them loose...

I would use the ARP lube... torque to spec in sequence. If you feel the need, give it a heat cycle and then go through the sequence again at full torque (just to make sure nothing lost clamping force during the heat cycle). Other then that, dont see much point.

When I build a high boost engine (typically import gas burner), I would torque to spec... break the cam(s) in... change the oil and put 100 miles or so on it then change the oil again and retorque the studs without loosening them. Never had a failure doing this. Loosening them chances disturbing the gasket.

 

[79jasper]

Just be careful. Was reading about some breaking lately from trying to go higher torque.
Justin said he had one guy that had 6 break.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[icanfixall]

Just be careful. Was reading about some breaking lately from trying to go higher torque.
Justin said he had one guy that had 6 break.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Well I need to ask what torque value "this guy" was attempting to achieve and when was the last time the torque wrench was calibrated. Also what lube and what studs were these.. This comment leaves way too many questions for me to "let it go" without getting more information.

 

[Clb]

I have a friend who can break a steel ball in a rubber room.
That said , I've been a " retourque after initial assembly, and after cam and heat cycles "guy.

 

[IDIoit]

so i read the ARP instructions.
oki doky silli oky. IM A MORON.
no need for heat cycle and retorque.
the ARP thread lube makes that possible.

 

[jwalterus]

I have a friend who can break a steel ball in a rubber room.
That said , I've been a " retourque after initial assembly, and after cam and heat cycles "guy.

to this day my mother says I "could make mud pies in a hospital clean room"

 

[Clb]

Brian' I did not know squids could read

 

[IDIoit]

Brian' I did not know squids could read

im not a squid sucka fish!

IM A SEABEE, A DIRT SAILOR, AM ARMY GEEK EMBARRASSER

AND A JARHEAD DESTROYER!

the chair force and the gnatguard cant even tread water with me