Super Duty Axle Swap

snicklas

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Little update from a day in thunderstorms at the pick-n-pulls. I was able to get the E-Brake cables from an 01' f350 and the 1350 yoke from a 95' F250. I also had to get some "new" U-Bolts because I had to cut two of mine off. For future reference the axle housings are basically the same size and the u-bolts will swap. Tomorrow I will pick up the new rubber brake hose that goes from axle housing to frame and and adapter to the hard line. Then to get some new tires on the SD rims. I plan on welding the diff for use on the farm but am a little concerned about the road behavior even though this truck is not primary transportation for any of us.

I hate to tell you this, especially if it's all back together, but, when you swap an axle, it is good practice to replace the U-Bolts, even if they come off. They are under a great deal of stress, and they will all "stretch" some. I think in every thread I've read on here about swapping an axle/springs they have replaced the U-Bolts.......
 

IDIoit

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I hate to tell you this, especially if it's all back together, but, when you swap an axle, it is good practice to replace the U-Bolts, even if they come off. They are under a great deal of stress, and they will all "stretch" some. I think in every thread I've read on here about swapping an axle/springs they have replaced the U-Bolts.......

i somewhat agree with this.
it is good practice to change the u-bolts when you do work like this.
but i have re-used u bolts in alot of vehicles, and as long as the threads arnt booger'd up, i ran them.
never had an issue.
 

jhenegh

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Is it an open carrier? Throw a cheap lock right in there.

Agree. Don't weld it, it seems too new/nice for that. Especially if you still plan on any pavement time at all. I have a lock-tight in mine, same one goes in the 10.25 & 10.5. Takes all of 30 minutes to install not counting cleaning up the cover, rtv silicone etc. I spin both rears whenever I want to, but don't scuff too bad (or really at all) on turns either.



On U-bolts, if mine are rusty or in any way sub-par, I replace. If they are good, no corroded threads, no pitting, I reuse them. Your call
 

Dieselcrawler

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I ran 5 years on a welded diff. From eastern pa to western Ohio a few times. Never had an issue. Yea right tirns make a tire chirp but owell
 

crash-harris

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I've also reused factory u bolts. As long as they're in good shape anyway. Anytime I've had to replace them it's normally been because I needed longer ones and ordered some from Ballistic Fabrication. Ruff Stuff sells nice ones as well. They both do fine thread u bolts and I always paint them before installing and I hate the standard thin washers that they come with (no top hat nuts like stock). Hardened washers or at least thick washers from Lowe's are a good idea especially with stock spring plates. I like the 1/4" thick plates from the pre-fab websites :D
 

pastorjeep

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Great info as always. On the welded diff, it really seems from all I have read that the driving experience between welded and lock right is about the same. So that equals a set of tires. This truck sees about five thousand mile a year running around the county. Maybe one or two trips to PA. or FL. to pick up stuff each year. THe bolts on mine were rusted and pitted in the threads so I got a very clean set from an E350 that were dusty but no real rust at all. I might order some but it was a time issue I have to have this together today to go pick up piglets a couple hours away.
 

IDIoit

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FYI, welded is locked.
a welded set of spider gears is refereed to as a poor mans Lincoln locker.
they act the same, they make both axles spin at the same rate, all of the time.
now in high HP machines, not only your tires wear, but your axles twist.
if this is not an everyday driver, i would weld em.
but its alot more fun with over 400 hp.

i have snapped semi floating axles doing this.

with the sterling and an IDI, i dont think youll have an issue.

then there is limited slip/positive traction, where the spider gears are clutched.
so when you go around a corner, it will allow for each axle to spin how they want, without tire chatter and axle twist.
but if you dont have one, they are not easy on the pocket book.

and there is open... and we all know those suck :D
 

IDIoit

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I put my axles through more abuse than any of you guys here do. Never had a shaft issue with being welded.


http://youtu.be/lbg-qS4TaQQ


you should reword that....
try playing on a sticky track, with clutch drops and trans brakes.
spinning donuts on dry pavement.

remember, if it dont break, you aint driving it hard enough :D
mud is a killer, but its also forgiving.
 

pastorjeep

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Old axle going to a resting place until I find a taker.
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pastorjeep

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The SD flange came off like butta compared to the 95' 1350 flange.
 

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pastorjeep

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This flange took heat and a big hammer. That was after it broke a three jaw puller! It was tough going on as well, I think it would stay on without a nut on it. But she got a lock tite nut anyway. :D
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Dieselcrawler

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you should reword that....
try playing on a sticky track, with clutch drops and trans brakes.
spinning donuts on dry pavement.

remember, if it dont break, you aint driving it hard enough :D
mud is a killer, but its also forgiving.
Forgiving yes, but I wasn't in the mud. When a 6300 lb truck goes airborn trying to pull another out and lands a 42 inch tire back down trying to grab, that load is more than any truck here will see. These guys are not drag racing on s sticky track. My front stub shafts have a 1 spline twist in them from this. Also snapped two t19 output shafts off, never hurt the rear. Snapped multiple driveshaft joints too.
 

pastorjeep

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So I opened the cover to let it drain over night to be welded in the AM an found this, It looks like a limited slip but when you look through the little holes it is just an open carrier...that has no room for welding! Has any one here welded a 10.5?
 

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