That Time of the Year Again: I Think It's Battery Time

[lotzagoodstuff]

I'm using group 31s in a OBS. Cut a piece of aluminum plate 1/4" thick to lay in the battery tray so the edge of the tray wouldn't rub on the battery. I want to do it right one of these days and modify the tray to be the right length, and lose the aluminum spacer. The batteries stick up far enough to touch the hood insulation now, so I'd like to see if I could drop them down a little as well. I have them oriented so the ground posts are on the outside, as the shape of the hood is such that the positive posts will never touch the hood with them this way.

Just sayin, it does work, but I do need to make some modifications.

Thanks Sherwin. Between you and Snicklas, I am thinking Group 31s or Top Secret Group 65s

Any chance you have any pics of of your Group 31s in your truck you could share?

 

[madpogue]

The thing about 31s is that in most places, the warranty is only about two years. 65s, the warranty varies with what "grade" you buy (and therefore how much you spend). Farm & Fleet up in Rockton - Platinum group 65 is $90 apiece, 875 CCA, 7 year warranty. So far, every one I've bought has lasted at least 7 years.

 

[jwalterus]

I've had the same Delco group 31's in my truck since I dried it out, and they were in the truck before that, they are from 2009 and just ran out of freebie warranty, 72 month free replacement on the (older warranty) platinums, still 2 years on the pro-rate warranty.....
When it's time to replace them, I'll go with Delco's again, even though they revised the warranties this year, they no longer have a 96 month warranty battery, now it's an 84 month, BUT, they have more than proven themselves to me.

http://www.acdelco.com/content/dam/..._pdf/ACDelco-battery-warranty-information.pdf

http://www.acdelco.com/content/dam/...r/Battery_pdf/auto-battery-price-schedule.pdf

 

[fields_mj]

For example. https://youtu.be/z2y-EgVqllM
I doubt you could crank a idi over that long with brand new 65's.

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If mine were in really good shape, they MIGHT go that long. If I had the truck plugged in, they most likely would. If I didn't, and the truck hadn't run in over a day, then I doubt they would make it.

Thanks for the breakdown on the deep cycle vs standard battery. I knew most of it, but it was useful to have it explained that way. I knew that the plates in a standard battery had more surface area, and there for could generate more current for shorter periods of time, and generally had a lower over all Amp Hour rating, and that the plates in the Deep Cycle were generally thicker, had less surface area, and there for couldn't generate as much current, but could store a lot more energy. Just wasn't sure where the Group 31s fell in that pattern. Being physically larger, plates of the same design would have more CCA, but I wasn't sure how they held up to longer draws. Sounds like they hold up quite nicely to any abuse that I could throw at them.

My only hang up with the 31 at his point is that I just put a brand new $150 group 65 in it a couple days ago. If I can get Autozone to admit the previous battery was/is bad, then what I do will depend on how they warrantee the old battery. Money back (or credit back to my card for the new one I just bought), and I'll go get one of those Econo grades over in Terrible Haute (You'd call it that too if you had ever smelled it). In store credit and I'll have to stick with their battery. This round of batteries is only about 2 years old, and I had been told that their batteries were pretty decent. I've been ******* them, but just the same, future vehicles will get something else. As for this truck, if I can get another 2~3 years out of them, that will out last the truck as far as a daily driver goes. I will likely hold onto it for a backup, firewood and such.

 

[fsmyth]

Second all that on the 31's. That's what I put in everything I have to depend on.
Some take a little more bodywork that others to fit, but it's worth it to me.
Top screw posts on everything.

 

[fsmyth]

Should have added - for those of you who don't have a 4/0 crimp tool
go to your local electrical supply house (Home Depot or Lowes may also have them),
and ask for an SLU-225 solderless lug. I use them even tho I DO have a crimper -
it's just easier to carry spares and toss 'em on, than to dig up the stuff to crimp or
solder them.
I use 4/0 welding lead for everything. Actually, it's DLO cable. but much the same.
And generous amounts of Vaseline on all exposed surfaces. Vaseline seems to flow
back to cover the barks made by jumper cables much better than other coatings.

[edit] for you purists, I think you can get red insulated welding cable now

 

[paulzx]

if you shop around the truck parts store you might find them on sale also the group 31. if they can live in tractor/transport and put miles and miles everyday for years and that bouncing and a physical abuse, that deserves my vote. just hope you don't seize you engine while cranking, you might find your truck upside down....

 

[A48WillyzGuy]

Agreed on Group 31's. I run them in my OBS, but they are TIGHT.

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All I did was grind down the lip on the inner edges of the factory trays, and build new hold downs.

Here's a G65 next to a G31 for size comparisons

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[lotzagoodstuff]

Anybody out there got any pics of Group 31s in a OBS Powerstroke? I am really interested in doing the Group 31s if they are reasonable to install, I see they fit in an OBS IDI, but I don't have one of those anymore

 

[79jasper]

I haven't seen any pic's, but should fit the same.

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[riotwarrior]

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2/0 gnd to block
4 ga gnd to gnd bat to bat

3/0 pos to pos to starter bat to bat to starter
2/0 pos to main solenoid
2/0 pos solenoid to GP relay

G31 bat stud tops

All terminals crimped soldered heat shrink. 1 cable - to - 4 ga to redo

Grp 31 all day long


JM2CW

 

[laserjock]

That is some serious cabling.

Question Al,

Do you crimp then solder or solder then crimp. The few I have done, I usually solder then crimp but I always wonder about the crimp causing the solder to break loose. I heat the lug with a torch and fill the cup about half full of solder then stick the cable in it and hold it till it solidifies. That sound about right?

 

[riotwarrior]

That is some serious cabling.

Question Al,

Do you crimp then solder or solder then crimp. The few I have done, I usually solder then crimp but I always wonder about the crimp causing the solder to break loose. I heat the lug with a torch and fill the cup about half full of solder then stick the cable in it and hold it till it solidifies. That sound about right?

Thank you. I am not one for having cable / electrical issues for long...loath bad wiring.

You are looking at an investment in peqce of mind and it sure makes starting and diagnosjng issues easier....check out my battery cable Tech 101

For me

I crimp first for the good physical connection it provides then I solder.

I dip wire into a non acid flux and put a blob in the connector too.

Insert wire into terminal and shove hard then crimp terminal.

Heat end with torch hold solder to wire and once it begins to flow fill terminal with solder and watch and ensure that it wicks into wire as well.

Allow cool clean well and heat shrink. Best heat shrink has a hot melt glue inside to provide a phenominally good seal.

Just how I do it....other people do things differently.

 

[fsmyth]

Crimp first. Solder last. You always want a good mechanical bond.
And the proper way to solder is to add flux to the cable end and to
the terminal, and let the heat draw the solder into the joint. When
the solder quits drawing, it has enough in it. Don't ever depend on
solder for a mechanical connection.
Done right, it makes for a good terminal. Done wrong, it is just
trouble waiting to happen.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

You must be registered for see images attach

2/0 gnd to block
4 ga gnd to gnd bat to bat

3/0 pos to pos to starter bat to bat to starter
2/0 pos to main solenoid
2/0 pos solenoid to GP relay

G31 bat stud tops

All terminals crimped soldered heat shrink. 1 cable - to - 4 ga to redo

Grp 31 all day long


JM2CW

Great looking job Al, but just to clarify, that picture is of Group 31s in a bricknose correct?