glow plug controller shut off w/ engine temp

[IDIoit]

heres the start of yet another glow plug thread.

some of you love the manual GP mod,
i however, do not.

i prefer to have the truck do it for me.

messing around on youtube this morning, and i ran across this guy...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gk06W-dvuqA

although i dont like his mod,but it got me thinking.......

what about another solenoid/relay install to the glow plug relay?
i dont want to draw the entire glow plug controller power from the switch. i dont think it would work for a long period of time.
with power feed from the high idle/ advance solenoid temp switch.
when the engine is cold, it would allow the glow plugs to cycle.
when the engine is warm, it would shut the glow plug controller off.

i do not have any issues except the fact that when i get home, and forget to roll my windows up,
i turn the ignition back on to roll the windows up, and the glow plug controller eats most of my power.

like anything else in this world, when you use something, they eventually fail.
just looking for something to make my GP's last a bit longer

whatcha think?

 

[franklin2]

You say you love the controller but then you want to modify the system? Of course I am a manual button guy.

Will your windows roll up if you turn the key backwards?

 

[IDIoit]

yup, and so does the GPC.
the internals of my dash are a wiring nightmare that i have not yet addressed.
i didnt say i loved the stock system, i said that i didnt love the manual GPB
but i do love modifications

 

[TahoeTom]

You could install a toggle switch to only allow power to the controller when you want it. Leave it on and the system would be the same as it is now. Now that I think about it, when I had my 6.9 GP controller in service, the wait to start lamp never came on when the engine was warm. The 6.9 controller is threaded into the water jacket so uses coolant temp to decide what to do. I guess the high idle switch/sensor does the same thing so maybe it could be used like you suggest.

 

[ironworker40]

You could install a toggle switch to only allow power to the controller when you want it.

That's the way a manual override should be done. This way you don't have to worry about leaving them on too long and if you let someone else drive your truck you can let it do it's thing and not have to change all your glow plugs when you get it back.

 

[laserjock]

Search for a thread me and another guy worked out the wire diagram. It's completely doable. I can't remember the guys handle but it starts with N.E.

Here's a quick sketch I made him.

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That should get you started.

Edit: Here's the thread.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...RMO-add-on-Anyone-done-this-something-similar

 

[BDCarrillo]

Roll your key backward from "Off" for Aux power to put the windows up... Most older Fords are like that.

The GPC on a warm/hot engine should already drastically shorten or eliminate the glowplug cycle. I've observed that behavior on all 3 of my running trucks.

 

[franklin2]

Roll your key backward from "Off" for Aux power to put the windows up... Most older Fords are like that.

The GPC on a warm/hot engine should already drastically shorten or eliminate the glowplug cycle. I've observed that behavior on all 3 of my running trucks.

Yes but he wants to do with the engine cold. I find it curious that his glowplug controller cycles the glowplugs when the key is turned backwards though, that doesn't seem right. But if that's the way it works, that could be easily changed by moving the power wire for the glowplug controller to another circuit that only has power when the key is forward. Looks like that would be the easiest cleanest way to do it.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Yes but he wants to do with the engine cold. I find it curious that his glowplug controller cycles the glowplugs when the key is turned backwards though, that doesn't seem right. But if that's the way it works, that could be easily changed by moving the power wire for the glowplug controller to another circuit that only has power when the key is forward. Looks like that would be the easiest cleanest way to do it.

Ah I missed that the key backward DID trigger the GPC, when it shouldn't... Sounds like the ignition switch isn't wired right.

I remember troubleshooting for another member and the R/LG coming off the key cylinder was incorrectly wired. It should only get 12v in run and start... If it gets 12v in accy the GPC will cycle. Accy circuit BK/LG should be juiced in Accy and Run only.

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[OLDBULL8]

If you would use the hot water tank t'stat, just hook the GPC black ground wire to the t'stat and then to ground, I don't know if the t'stat will adjust the temp that low so the GPC will turn on.

 

[laserjock]

Yeah, cycling glow plugs on accessories is no Bueno. I plan on a three position switch on mine. Normal operation, temp sensor control or full defeat. If I ever get there.

 

[IDIoit]

I don't want to f with a toggle or button,
Yes my electrical needs some attention,
It does cycle of its on acc and run.
Which according to you guys is incorrect.
I want to hook this up to make it completely automatic
When the truck is cold, the glow plugs will work normally, but when the truck is warm,
They won't cycle at all.
I'll be doing something like this later on in the week.
Thanks for all of your posts!

 

[laserjock]

Yep. You can wire it that was so that the water temp sensor will break the power to the gp controller. It's simple enough. I like having options hence 3 positions.

 

[Giddy-Up]

GM used a "glow plug inhibitor switch" on the 6.2 diesels they threaded into a coolant port, but I don't know what temp they were set at.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

GM used a "glow plug inhibitor switch" on the 6.2 diesels they threaded into a coolant port, but I don't know what temp they were set at.

The factory IDI cold-start temp switch is set to 112F according to the manuals. That can be a bit low to disable the glowplugs completely, if for whatever reason the engine is shut off shortly after the high-idle and cold advance have dropped off it will take some cranking for it to relight. Having a manual glow button will fix that easy, give her 3-5 seconds and boom she goes almost the second the starter is hit. But without that shot glow, she'll be cranking a bit longer than one may want. On the other hand if one pretty much never shuts the engine off so early, or they don't mind a few extra revolutions before she lights off in the off chance they do, then using the factory temp switch will work good for ensuring the plugs don't come on with the engine fully warmed up when they're not needed at all.