Tank type block heater?

[Sycostang67]

I have noticed that most of these tank style engine heaters want you to tap in a freeze plug. I was wondering if one of these would work just as well on the IDI as you could tap into the hose that runs into the head, hoping it that it's low enough to work properly. My frost plug heater has burnt out and I would rather not replace it just yet, preferrably next year when it warms up again. I was just wanting something to keep it warm for this winter.

 

[86ford69jw]

I used a in line heater in my lower radiator hose from Napa and it worked good. I had problems of the stock style heater not working or leaking. I tried three different ones and they all leaked or worked for a week and went dead. Never had a problem with the in line deal. took about 10 mins to do.

 

[Sycostang67]

I was just hoping I wouldn't have to drain and recover all my coolant, I sure dont have the cash for 8 more gallons of the SCA treated stuff if something goes wrong and I lose it.....wait, I'm a fricken idiot. I suppose I could use that little petcock on my radiator to safely/slowly drain the coolant into a clean container. Can you tell I usually just pop the bottom hose off and watch it drain away. It was plugged on my last radiator but I have since replaced it so that shouldn't be a problem anymore.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Sure you can, just put a short hose on it or it will drain all over the place. Crack it open first sometimes they are really tight, then put the hose on, think it's a 3/8" hose.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Concerning draining the radiator, on all of my engines/vehicles, I remove the entire pit-**** gizmo and install a pitcock that has both sides threaded, then a long nipple, then an ELL that points down, a short nipple, and a pipe-cap.




As for the inline canister heater, I have had excellent results so long as they are plumbed according to instructions.

Mount the heater low on the left frame-rail.

Put a TEE in the radiator-drain, such that the open leg of the TEE feeds the INLET of the heater.

Route the OUTLET hose up and over to "Y" into the lower "return" heater-hose.

Cover the OUTLET hose with one of those split foam pipe-sleeves and then wrap with that shiny bubble-wrap insulation.


If you follow these instructions, on a sub-zero morning the temperature gauge will be up a mark or so.


If you just cut a heater-hose and put in the heater, you are just wasting electricity.

 

[icanfixall]

What about an oil pan magnetic heater. Just stick it on and it will keep the engine oil warm plus.. Its low in the block so heat raises. Or try to wrap a heater around the oil cooler on the side of the engine. They are fed from the rear of the block and the coolant flows towards the front. Just oppisite of the oil flow...

 

[Sycostang67]

Concerning draining the radiator, on all of my engines/vehicles, I remove the entire pit-**** gizmo and install a pitcock that has both sides threaded, then a long nipple, then an ELL that points down, a short nipple, and a pipe-cap.




As for the inline canister heater, I have had excellent results so long as they are plumbed according to instructions.

Mount the heater low on the left frame-rail.

Put a TEE in the radiator-drain, such that the open leg of the TEE feeds the INLET of the heater.

Route the OUTLET hose up and over to "Y" into the lower "return" heater-hose.

Cover the OUTLET hose with one of those split foam pipe-sleeves and then wrap with that shiny bubble-wrap insulation.


If you follow these instructions, on a sub-zero morning the temperature gauge will be up a mark or so.


If you just cut a heater-hose and put in the heater, you are just wasting electricity.

So you are just tapping into the heater hoses?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

So you are just tapping into the heater hoses?

Read it again.

The INLET comes from the bottom radiator drain port, through the heater who's INLET is in plane with the radiator drain, with the heater's OUTLET hose then being "Y"ed into the lower/return heater-hose.

Heat goes UP; if the heat cannot go UP, it will NOT circulate and does little good.


These are simply the basic instructions that come with a canister heater.

 

[Sycostang67]

Ok, I read heater and was thinking truck heater, not tank heater.

 

[RLDSL]

Read it again.

The INLET comes from the bottom radiator drain port, through the heater who's INLET is in plane with the radiator drain, with the heater's OUTLET hose then being "Y"ed into the lower/return heater-hose.

Heat goes UP; if the heat cannot go UP, it will NOT circulate and does little good.


These are simply the basic instructions that come with a canister heater.

Yup, those tank jobs have no pump, they rely on convection. Once the tank heats up, that water starts rising through the engine and some cold water falls back to the tank. It all has to be in a loop.

 

[rhkcommander]

Using a 600w Katz lower rad heater. 2" I think...

Works good so far, the whole radiator was warm but after the coolant is ran through the block it of course cools down. Still made it start alot easier.

I've heard that magnetic oil pan heaters and dip stick heaters aren't good to use because they won't evenly heat the oil or some junk. I've got a 1kw freeze plug heater from napa for the new engine. Found out that prior owner cracked the block and welded it poorly where it would've gone.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

I've been thinking that with My 7.3 getting close to 200K miles, I'm going to rebuild My 1985 6.9 with the the thin block casting. When I do it, I'll run dual 500 watt heaters. one on each side of the block. Instead of the OEM 1200 watt. Maybe the block will hold?

 

[Black dawg]

there are tank heaters with an internal pump for circulation.

I have used one of those 200w stick on oil pan heaters on my truck and it works pretty good. I forgot the numbers, I am a numbers (facts) kind of guy, but it seems like the oil was 30deg on a 0deg day with only the pan heater plugged in all night. With only the block heater plugged in all night, coolant temps were in the 40deg range and the oil was at 10deg. With just the oil pan heater on, the truck started easily at 0deg.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

When I had the big KATS tank-heater, 2500-WATT if memory serves, plumbed onto the old 6.9, it by far outperformed any freeze-plug heater I ever used.

When I pulled the engine, I cleaned and boxed it all, but have not yet had reason to re-install it on the 6BT, as the block-heater on the 6BT has thus far been more than sufficient.

Should the block-heater ever fail, I would not hesitate to re-install the big KATS.

 

[RLDSL]

Of course, if you REALLY want to get the thing warmed up good, then you could get an Eberspacher ( Espar ) diesel fired block heater. Those things are wicked. Small self contained furnace with a 12v circulating pump. Set it to turn on 20-30 minutes before you go out and you can also wire it in to your defrost blower and not only will the engine be up to operating temp, but the cab will be toasty and you glass will be clear Just don't ask about the price