painting the idi

[redneckaggie]

ok so school is about to be out and Im getting ready to finish body work and get a coat of paint on the truck. I am doing a two tone white with a blue stripe down the middle. my question is would there be a problem with spraying a coat of white on the truck and then sanding all of that with some 600 grit or so after it cures enough to sand and spraying the blue stripe and then clear coating all of it. would the clear work fine over the sanded white or would the scratches show through. I have never tried to spray clear over sanded paint so I was nervous about whether the scratches would show through.

 

[BioFarmer93]

Wet sand with 600 then wash and wipe down well. One coat of clear and every 600 scratch immediately disappears... Let THAT dry, wet sand with 800, wash & wipe then put another coat of clear on it, 800 wet then buff & wax. People will be walking into phone poles and tripping over fire hydrants looking at it..

 

[Diesel_brad]

I am sorry but 600 and 800 are WAY to coarse for clear coat to hide those scratches.

NOTHING coarser than 1500 should be used before clear coat.

If you are using a base/ clear paint.

paint the center blue. Then give its flash time to set up. The tape off and cover the blue. Then spray your white on the rest of the truck. then untape your blue and clearcoat the entire truck.


If you are using single stage paint then clearing over.

Paint the center blue. let is sit 24 hours. Wet sand with 800-1000 where the blue overlaped where the white will be. Then wetsand the blue with 1500-2000. Then tape off the blue. Spray the white. Untape the blue and clear the entire truck

 

[93cc7.3]

1000 is to slick for clear to bond properly and be durable i used to work in a shop that the owner insisted in wetsanding with 1000 1500 to clear and more often then not the baked clear would flake off when we untaped it

 

[Diesel_brad]

Never had a problem with clear not sticking. I have been painting over 15 years

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

Never had a problem with clear not sticking. I have been painting over 15 years

x2 We use nothing less then 1000 for final finish

 

[BioFarmer93]

1000 is a ridiculous waste of time and sweat. That's what they make buffers for. If you don't think that clear fills a 600 finish then stand a little closer when you spray the first coat. 1500?! Are you serious? Why not just wipe it down with newspaper.. Oh wait, that might be too coarse. We're talking about putting a nice paint job on a daily driver not pimping out a trailered show queen, besides, he's working in a limited time frame- school break, right?
BTW- I started running a gun for a living in '74, how old were you then?

 

[OLDBULL8]

I just use a string mop for the color coat, then a sponge mop for the clear coat, 4 coats of clear. Makes for a nice shine. Brad seen my truck, he had to put his sun glasses on.

 

[88beast]

id paint the stripe stripe area plus some on the truck tape it off sand and paint the rest of the color
look into duplicolor paint shop extreme 4x4 and trucks use it a lot and it takes a good beating also ive seen it used and its stupid easy to spray lays even and smooth looks better than macco and costs less

 

[redneckaggie]

now I did not mean to cause problems but I agree with biofarmer here.

brad I know you have really nice trucks and if you paint them you must know your way around a gun but i am not looking for a show queen here, just a little shine.

I also need to be clear that I will be hand sanding. I mention this because you guys are talking about 600 being to coarse and I agree if you are using something with high rpms like an air powered orbital sander. I tried using one of those and even 800 grit would eat paint in a hurry. I am sorry I didnt clear that up in the first post.

And yes I am working through time constraints, I work weekends and will have to be able to pull the truck down and apart starting monday morning and have the paint on and ready to drive the truck thursday night. I dont mind having to spray then wait till the next week to do the next color, then a week, then the clear.

I must ask though why are you saying paint the blue first? I wanted to be able to do the white, then the blue because I have never sprayed mettallics or clear, but I have sprayed non metallic base coat before, so the idea was to get the white on the truck then get my dad and bro up here the next week for the blue and clear.

88- ill check on the duplicolor but I can normally get a good deal through oreillys with nason paint. we have painted three or four trucks with it so far and it shines about right for a dd but still takes some abuse.

 

[Agnem]

Before this gets into a whizzing match, just keep it friendly guys. Everybody knows there can be more than one way to do something, and you all are probably using different products anyway, which may produce different results. I think it's great that there is such cool painting advice here, as that is one skill I really wish I had. Anybody who does body work and paint has my utmost respect, regardless of what grit they use.

 

[7.3 powerstrok]

red neck just to be clear ,,,are you using single stage paint or base coat clear coat ? in any case you should not ureathane clear over single stage paint !!! it will surley peel out in the weather ,may be ok for inside show truck .in my opinion the easy,quick ,low cost ,best 2 tone paint job is single stage acrilic .prep the truck .sand 320-400 grit paper ,,paint in rought the stripes ,then fine line mask the stripes and cover ,then paint the rest of the truck ,after 48 hours wet sand w/1000 and light buff w/mirror glaze fine ,every one has a favorite that works for them

 

[redneckaggie]

I have always used nason basecoat/clearcoat from oreillys never even seen a single stage paint job done. sorry if I am a little slow on painting my bro and dad are the ones that are pretty good at it but being that I am about 300 miles from them I am trying to get it done without bugging them to be up here all the time.

with that being said would there be a problem with spraying the white, waiting a week, and then blue/clear or should this really all be done at once. I realize I will have to disassemble and mask twice If I wait a week but i really dont have many options besides that.

 

[riphip]

I've been watching this thread so I can try to do a decent paint job on my trucks. I've never attempted painting a vehicle but don't want it to show.

Rick

 

[Diesel_brad]

now I did not mean to cause problems but I agree with biofarmer here.

brad I know you have really nice trucks and if you paint them you must know your way around a gun but i am not looking for a show queen here, just a little shine.


Thanks, and Not everything I own is a show truck, but I do believe if you are going to do a job, you should do it right(the 1st time)



I also need to be clear that I will be hand sanding. I mention this because you guys are talking about 600 being to coarse and I agree if you are using something with high rpms like an air powered orbital sander. I tried using one of those and even 800 grit would eat paint in a hurry. I am sorry I didnt clear that up in the first post.

Sanding by hand i have found to leave deeper and less consistant scratches

And yes I am working through time constraints, I work weekends and will have to be able to pull the truck down and apart starting monday morning and have the paint on and ready to drive the truck thursday night. I dont mind having to spray then wait till the next week to do the next color, then a week, then the clear.

It will be ALOT less work if you keep the truck down for a couple of days. Paint the blue, then the white then the clear.

I must ask though why are you saying paint the blue first? I wanted to be able to do the white, then the blue because I have never sprayed mettallics or clear, but I have sprayed non metallic base coat before, so the idea was to get the white on the truck then get my dad and bro up here the next week for the blue and clear.


You want to paint the blue 1st because that will be less color to tape off(just the center of the truck, not the whole thing)

The trick to metallics is to NOT paint the same way twice, other wise you will get tiger stripes. By this i mean, 1st coat horizontal stokes, 2nd coat vertical strokes, 3rd coat on 45*, 4th coat on 45* the other direction, you get my drift.

Clear coat is just like painting any other paint. You want to keep it wet enough for a smooth finish, but not too wet to cause a run.

88- ill check on the duplicolor but I can normally get a good deal through oreillys with nason paint. we have painted three or four trucks with it so far and it shines about right for a dd but still takes some abuse.[/QUOTE]

NAson is dupont . Just their economy series, good paint at a cheap price. I have better luck with PPGs shopline but to each their own

I dont think you ever did answer, are you going to use a base /clear or a single stage paint then clear over? Dont worry about the clear not holding up going over on a single stage, I have been doing it for YEARS on farm tractors that never see the inside of a shed.

Also I will add that single stage paint is MUCH more forgiving for bodywork and sand scratches. The single stage paint is a color, builder and shine all in one.

With a base/ clear system, the color is JUST COLOR. there is no build properties, therefore scratches are much more visible. But nothing will quite shine like a Base/clear job