Using Glow Plugs to super tune the engine

Old Goat

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Stumbled across this thread over on FTE from quite a few years back,
while searching for something else.
Any one of you ever read about this type of timing?



Goat
 

IDIBOBS

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Ummm. I just get in a drive. When I needed more power I turned up the ip a little and timed the pump correctly. When I need more i push the skinny pedal when I need less I push it less. I get 25mpg empty and 15mpg pulling 10k trailer. Everything else is going to depend on ambient temp, humidity type of fuel, tires (type, tread, psi,) weight of rims and tires, grease in bearings, if it’s waxed or not,…ect. I just have better things to do then super tune a 30year old truck.
 

Old Goat

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I hear ya. I tune mine the same way more or less.
Was getting 19 - 20+, and once in a while 21 empty.
Loaded/Car Trailer was like a Boat Anchor and really dropped off.
With new IP & Injectors, dropped down to 17.4 - 18+, 16 on one
tank empty. Set the Timing with my ferrit meter.
Put 10K miles on her since Aug.
Thinking I was too far advanced, she was a little doggy on
acceleration, few days ago i finally moved the Pump to retard a bit. Improved the get up and go, and stopped the smoky cold
morning starts I was getting lately. Kind of like an old 2 stroke
Detroit.
This next tank of fuel see where Iam at, lot of hwy miles on this tank.

I just came across that thread and neve seen some one that
high tech way to time one.


Goat
 

Clb

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Disclaimer
I made it to his 3rd post and bailed....

So I remember a guy posting how awesome a thing was, ( see if you can guess what) and several hundred people got on board, followed his lead ....


Fast forward to this....
























:flipa

You must be registered for see images attach


Someone can check his cred's for me.
It's time to hit the lake.
 

Cant Write

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I read a lot of that thread and by God, I ain’t got the time.

@IDIBOBS how do you get 25 mpg outta a 7.3L engine? Best I have achieved is 21mpg at 55 solid with no stopping. High elevation (WY) flatland.
 

Clb

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But there's soooooo much variance in these trucks.
My 88 was loud as h e c k in stock form.
My 93 is real quiet.
88 ran hot pulling mtn. passes.
93 not so much.
Drivers a hunnert percent of 1 facet of the equation...

Sorry goat
Couldn't resist
 

BeastMaster

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I think using the glow plugs as thermocouples for cylinder combustion temps is interesting.

I am quite intrigued by the concept, although I will have to think about it a bit to determine exactly where the "hot" and "cold" junctions really are, as I have to consider the glow plug itself canceling out it's internal Seebeck effects as it's base screw insertion into the block is apt to be within a few degrees of it's top terminal, albeit the top connector of the glow plug is a dissimilar metal than the engine block.

Note that thermocouples make use of the Seebeck effect to measure temperature differentials:


So far, I see this as a roundabout way of measuring block temperature where the electrical connection is made between glow plug and the block ( hot junction ), which is between two cold junctions ( engine block to copper test lead ) and another thermocouple formed at the connection between glow plug power connector and the other copper test lead.

I believe this will work, as far as giving a reading as the engine heats up, but I see a problem with the other unintentionally formed thermocouples formed at all the junctions of dissimilar metals of unknown alloy making such a mess of extraneous Seebeck inputs as to render this approach untenable, when one could just use an off-the-shelf type K thermocouple with known Seebeck characteristics and thermal environment of the "cold junction".

Just about any joining of dissimilar metals makes a thermocouple...but the ones you buy ( e.g. type K ) use known stable alloys with thoroughly researched calibration curves that relate temperature difference to the voltage difference they develop. Thermocouples are made from many different alloys...for our uses, type K is commonly used.


But I find it intriguing nevertheless.

I have a tiny soldering iron for microcircuit assembly whose tip heater temperature is controlled by this method. They appear to be using two dissimilar metals bonded together as a heating element, then about once a second, the current is switched off for a few milliseconds and the millivolt Seebeck voltage is measured, compared to setpoint, then latched. If Seebeck voltage was below setpoint, another shot of current ( approx 1 second ) is delivered, if above setpoint, no shot, waits a second then tests again. The iron runs from a 19 volt DC "brick" same as those that power laptop PC's.
 
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