Transmission shop near Yakima? (or Puyallup)

[Cubey]

Executive Summary: Directly regarding the C6. Fluid temp leaving the trans (TC) should never go above 300F and Trans temp entering Pan should stay above 150F to properly clean and lubricate.

Somewhere I saw where someone got an extra sensor for their trans temp gauge and put it on a switch where one way showed the line coming from the trans and the other showing the pan, or maybe the line from the cooler, I can't remember which.

I have the trans temp gauge sensor put on the line from the TC, right below the starter because on a van chassis, that's about the only good place. Max temp matters more than anything else I think with my application. I don't drive in extreme cold, the vehicle is always under a heavy load, etc.

Although, the B&M gauge instructions tell you to put it on the return line to the trans after the cooler.

 

[Cubey]

Two steps forward, one step back. The turbo oil drain tube was either already cracked in half before hand (it was leaking oil, but that might have been the upper o-ring?) or it got cracked when we were undoing the turbo mount. It looks to be plastic but might be aluminum? It's not steel, a magnet won't stick. Plus the turbo mount won't line up now without basically completely taking off the turbo, air box etc. So now need to find an 085 turbo drain. Fun stuff!


A comparison of the old cooler vs new:

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[gnathv]

You’ll like that cooler, I have the same one and rarely see over 170 towing my camper or boat. They both weigh close to 10k each. I do have deep transmission pan also. Adds 2 gallons of fluid. Make sure your B&M gauge has a solid ground, if not the gauge will begin to climb and cause great anxiety. I know first hand lol.

 

[Nero]

Fun fact about the 085 oil drain, it's simply a barbed fitting on the bottom of the turbo, and a barbed insert into the valley pan, with just a piece of rubber hose in between

 

[Nero]

Got everything buttoned up today, 14qts later and it's registering on the stick now, bumps into reverse and drive normally. Going to let it sit overnight so the excess atf on the inside of the dipstick tube drips all the way down, then we'll warm it up and adjust the level after that. We can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Another episode of "Adventures with Cubey" is almost over.

 

[Cubey]

You’ll like that cooler, I have the same one and rarely see over 170 towing my camper or boat. They both weigh close to 10k each. I do have deep transmission pan also. Adds 2 gallons of fluid. Make sure your B&M gauge has a solid ground, if not the gauge will begin to climb and cause great anxiety. I know first hand lol.

Will do about the gauge.

Fun fact about the 085 oil drain, it's simply a barbed fitting on the bottom of the turbo, and a barbed insert into the valley pan, with just a piece of rubber hose in between

The new, very red oil drain hose. For future reference:

Multi Duty Hose - Part # NBH H-1712 - For Handling Lower Pressure Air, Water, Agricultural Spraying, Oil Or Grease.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBHH1712

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Just as well that it was bad, since we had to completely disconnect the turbo from the intake hat and air box. While it was off, I was able to exam the turbo, no end to end play and typical bearing wobble side to side play and air intake side fins look fine.

 

[Cubey]

Took it out for a short drive to heat up the trans to check the ATF level. It was too high, removed some then it was too low but then the dipstick tube was contaminated again so it has to sit and wait again for it to drain into the pan. The trailer was unhitched first, since it would be in the way to go to the trans shop tomorrow.

It ran a bit above 160*F in town while in motion once it got up to temp, but would cool down below that at stops. The radiator's trans cooler still isn't hooked up yet, since it needs flushing first.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I'm sure you guys tried this but I've found that if you look at both sides of the trans dipstick you often can find a clean spot to take a reading. I also totally get the contaminated tube...such an annoying setup. On our Allison 3000's at work(before we knew the trans had a self-check) it would drive me crazy to check fluid level. Then I realized it'll read just as good on the back...and bam usually it was clean enough to get the reading. Strange to me but hey it worked.

 

[Cubey]

I'm sure you guys tried this but I've found that if you look at both sides of the trans dipstick you often can find a clean spot to take a reading. I also totally get the contaminated tube...such an annoying setup. On our Allison 3000's at work(before we knew the trans had a self-check) it would drive me crazy to check fluid level. Then I realized it'll read just as good on the back...and bam usually it was clean enough to get the reading. Strange to me but hey it worked.

Yep. I just checked it that way. It's about mid way in the area where it says "ADD" and seemed to be slowly climbing, at only about 120*F at idle. I didn't take it for a drive, just let it idle about 5 minutes to show on the gauge some. I did run it through R/N/D then back slowly before I checked.

That should be good enough to get to the trans shop tomorrow (7 miles, stop and go, pretty flat driving) where they can adjust it as they want if it's still a tad low.

I found that it was upshifting a bit too early for my liking earlier, so I did about a 1/4 turn clockwise on the vacuum modulator to raise the shift points, but that was after we got back so I haven't road tested that since. I can stop and adjust that along the way if I need to.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Another episode of "Adventures with Cubey" is almost over.

This has been great! 11+ pages of Cubey and Nero creating memories and friendship. And from what I gather it sounds like there's enough aftermarket and add on gauges in that RV that it probably looks like you're piloting an aircraft when you're driving up a hill.
But seriously, I really appreciate the commitment to "doing it right", I'm still climbing that ladder. Right now I just do what I can afford.
And HEY!, Cubey, I worked you into my WMO thread as someone who "should NOT do WMO" mostly because you'd have to store it in your grey water tank and it would never settle since it would get jostled around.
GREAT JOB WITH THE TRANNY, GUYS!!!

 

[Cubey]

This has been great! 11+ pages of Cubey and Nero creating memories and friendship. And from what I gather it sounds like there's enough aftermarket and add on gauges in that RV that it probably looks like you're piloting an aircraft when you're driving up a hill.
But seriously, I really appreciate the commitment to "doing it right", I'm still climbing that ladder. Right now I just do what I can afford.
And HEY!, Cubey, I worked you into my WMO thread as someone who "should NOT do WMO" mostly because you'd have to store it in your grey water tank and it would never settle since it would get jostled around.
GREAT JOB WITH THE TRANNY, GUYS!!!

Only two gauges match (pyro & boost). I need to go back later and redo 4 of them them better in universal a-pillar pods so it's less messy. I have the trans temp gauge pod that it came with just stuck on with Velcro, for now.

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[IDIBRONCO]

I like that trans temp gauge.

 

[Cubey]

Was too lazy to take a pic of the dipstick but one like it is on eBay so I grabbed their pic. This is how it's marked.

It's mid way up ADD when barely warm. The arrow area is like crosshatch on later dipsticks, don't add any if it's there when fully heated up.

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[Jesus Freak]

Only two gauges match (pyro & boost). I need to go back later and redo 4 of them them better in universal a-pillar pods so it's less messy. I have the trans temp gauge pod that it came with just stuck on with Velcro, for now.

You must be registered for see images attach

As a courier driver for FedEx, we'd call that "distracted (but informed) driving"!!! The gearvendor is going to add some to the morass too.