Gents,
I guess I have had a different experience with mechanical pumps. (Diesel ((Trucks, Boats, and Generators)) or Gas.) I have never been able to kill my 2 batteries in my truck even when my glow plug controller was in safe mode in 40 degree mornings, or replacing my fuel filter, changing my return lines, or injectors. Never had a issue with the system re-priming due to air instrusion or running out of fuel. (Does take 3-5 crank runs.) So did not see the need to spend +$150 in parts and 2x the hours converting to an e-pump when my mechanical pump died. (Mechanical pump less than $35 and came with the block seal.)
Many have shared recently they are not having success. Going back in time Josh the Bear can share his wows. (Uses both styles now.) Sycostang 67 shared his wows, TTMan4 had issues with his first e-pump, and Lotzofgoodstuff stated that the well known Duralift might not be up to *****. But seems like the Holley Reds seem to be problem free for the two of you.
Cubey,
You were one of the “few” I was referring too that had good luck. Also the one who I was referring to as needing to add a pressure regulator to get your pump to work properly. Also running Holley Red.
Rock,
You do make a good point, there is a small percentage of pumps that do not leak out of the weep hole but rather into the block. But I have read in the past a member saying their arm wore out and fell into the oil pan because they left the old mechanical pump in place when going e-pump. So 100,000's miles later it wore through because it was not replaced at the EOL, say 80,000 miles.
But when your e-pump does not work it is harder and takes longer to diagnose. Is it the relay, fuse, wiring, ground, short, voltage drop, or pressure issue from a bad pump? Mechanical, hook up a pressure gauge to our schrader valve, and test for pressure at several RPM levels.
Also my local parts stores show the Holley Red as special order, but have the mechanical pumps in stock. Makes for a challenge if you are on a trip, might be stuck waiting for parts in BFE. Amazon Prime says I can get one Tuesday next week? (Down for 6 days? Guess you can keep a spare with you.)
The truth is to convert to a e-pump properly it is actually twice the time as putting on a new mechanical pump. -
1) Altering the fuel lines.
2) Drilling the frame for e-pump hold down screws.
3) Shopping, buying and installing a relay and associated wiring.
4) Running, covering, and zip tying all the wiring to prevent electrical shorts.
5) The ironic part having to remove the mechanical pump and making/buying a plate to seal the hole in the block. (Or risk what one member said. Their pump arm ground down over time and fell into the oil pan over time because it was never replaced/removed after it was EOL. That is shavings in the oil, potential engine failure if that pops out of the oil, and pulling the oil pan to fix that.)
So at face value it looks like the conversion is 2x the work, 3x the cost, and potentially more time to diagnose in the future to me. But if I had bad experiences like you mentioned with killing batteries, non-starts, priming issues, fuel filter changes, or go a step further killing a starter. Now nothing since converting, maybe I would be a convert to e-pumps too. But still don't see it as a upgrade? For many who did not use a Holley Red it was still just a failed experiment.
I think the lesson here is folks who tried Holley Red's seemed to have success. Those who bought random brands did not all have a good experience.