Fuel Pump Woes

[Cubey]

I pulled the Racor one from a junk yard banks turbo IDI years ago for my F250 but never installed it. The RV lacked it entirely while the truck still has it's factory one, dunno if it's even hooked up or not though. So I put the Racor one on the RV ~2 years ago. I got a couple of NOS Racor elements on ebay for pretty cheap at that time and I don't have many miles yet on the first one yet. Once I go through the second one, I might look into getting something else, if I even still have this thing that far in the future. So anyay point is, it was cheaper to buy a pair of the NOS Racor elements for the head/bowl I already had than to buy a new system. My factory filter is due for replacement miles wise (7500 miles is the suggested replacement interval, I'm at 8,600) so I'll see about doing that next month. O'Reilly's cheapest 6.9 filter is the Motorcraft one, so I'll get another. It's been almost 3 years too, so it's about due for replacement I guess.

Oh and the goldenrod elements look to be $10 not $5? Still cheaper than Racor MSRP though.

I don't see a way to mount those either.

 

[Farmer Rock]

I pulled the Racor one from a junk yard banks turbo IDI years ago for my F250 but never installed it. The RV lacked it entirely while the truck still has it's factory one, dunno if it's even hooked up or not though. So I put the Racor one on the RV ~2 years ago. I got a couple of NOS Racor elements on ebay for pretty cheap at that time and I don't have many miles yet on the first one yet. Once I go through the second one, I might look into getting something else, if I even still have this thing that far in the future. So anyay point is, it was cheaper to buy a pair of the NOS Racor elements for the head/bowl I already had than to buy a new system. My factory filter is due for replacement miles wise (7500 miles is the suggested replacement interval, I'm at 8,600) so I'll see about doing that next month. O'Reilly's cheapest 6.9 filter is the Motorcraft one, so I'll get another. It's been almost 3 years too, so it's about due for replacement I guess.

Oh and the goldenrod elements look to be $10 not $5? Still cheaper than Racor MSRP though.

I don't see a way to mount those either.

I bought that whole assembly for under $30 at rural and $5 for an extra cartridge. They are $5 at rural king, but they are a little more at other stores like TSC at least in my area. I welded up a very simple bracket out of 2 pieces of angle line back to back and drilled 4 holes for U bolts. I'll get you a picture in a few minutes of how it's mounted.


Rock

 

[Farmer Rock]

I pulled the Racor one from a junk yard banks turbo IDI years ago for my F250 but never installed it. The RV lacked it entirely while the truck still has it's factory one, dunno if it's even hooked up or not though. So I put the Racor one on the RV ~2 years ago. I got a couple of NOS Racor elements on ebay for pretty cheap at that time and I don't have many miles yet on the first one yet. Once I go through the second one, I might look into getting something else, if I even still have this thing that far in the future. So anyay point is, it was cheaper to buy a pair of the NOS Racor elements for the head/bowl I already had than to buy a new system. My factory filter is due for replacement miles wise (7500 miles is the suggested replacement interval, I'm at 8,600) so I'll see about doing that next month. O'Reilly's cheapest 6.9 filter is the Motorcraft one, so I'll get another. It's been almost 3 years too, so it's about due for replacement I guess.

Oh and the goldenrod elements look to be $10 not $5? Still cheaper than Racor MSRP though.

I don't see a way to mount those either.

Here's some pics. I forgot to take them before I left for work this morning.

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Rock

 

[Cubey]

Here's some pics. I forgot to take them before I left for work this morning.

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Rock

Yikes, that hangs down a bit low, doesn't it? I suppose if you stay on pavement, it might be ok although I'd still be worried about big speed bumps. I have the Racor mounted up way high so it's higher than the lowest stuff.

 

[Farmer Rock]

Yikes, that hangs down a bit low, doesn't it? I suppose if you stay on pavement, it might be ok although I'd still be worried about big speed bumps. I have the Racor mounted up way high so it's higher than the lowest stuff.

It's nowhere near as low as it looks. And my truck spends quite a bit of time off-road in in fields, so I wouldn't have bothered if it was too low. Eventually I will make a skid plate for it, but just to give an idea, it only hangs downs about 3 inches lower than the transfer case skid plate, so it's not a problem. It's an optical illusion,lol.


Rock

 

[YJMike92]

In 40 years I have NEVER had fuel leak out of the top mating surfaces of a mechanical fuel pump. I've worked on a lot of junk over this period of time. I've never been compelled to tote around a spare fuel pump. I've got 5 of these trucks, and none have them had a fuel pump fail in this way. None of them have ever had electric pumps added. I realize there's are a ridiculous number of threads on this topic. Just looking for a little concise guidance.

Why not get a Ford pump? Use aftermarket when nothing else is available. There is so much still available from Ford for these trucks.
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Mechanical-Fuel-Pump/51307587/E3TZ9350B.html

 

[79GLIDE]

I'm pretty sure I checked my local Ford parts counter, and was told it is obsolete. I'll check again tomorrow.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Why not get a Ford pump? Use aftermarket when nothing else is available. There is so much still available from Ford for these trucks.
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Mechanical-Fuel-Pump/51307587/E3TZ9350B.html

I also ponied up for the Ford lift pump a while back after being unimpressed with the Facet. Kept the Facet on a parallel line for priming and emergency backup.
The Ford mechanical keeps 4-5psi inlet to the IP all the way through the RPM band on my maxed-out turbo setup, which the Facet couldn't even dream of doing. Which makes for much more consistent performance.

 

[Big Bart]

The mechanical pumps get a bad rap, but I read a lot more about electric fuel pump issues on this site. It does not seem like a uprade, seems more like a downgrade to go electric.

 

[Farmer Rock]

The mechanical pumps get a bad rap, but I read a lot more about electric fuel pump issues on this site. It does not seem like a uprade, seems more like a downgrade to go electric.

I completely disagree. It's really a matter of opinion more than anything when it comes to which is best. I'll say this, if you gotta prime the lines you would eat those words,lol.
To be clear, I never use an E pump to mask air intrusion, however as I have previously said, when air intrusion comes in like a school bus driver, I won't be the one out on the driveway cranking like there ain't no tomorrow,lol.


Rock

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

So, is it a fact that Airtex owns Carter, and the Carter pump is no better than the Precision brand at O'Reilly's? The pump on the truck now I purchased at my local O'Reilly's 2 years ago, and has a lifetime warranty. I'd pass up the warranty to purchase a superior quality pump.

I think these two press releases explain the ownership of both Carter and Airtex:

Trico Group Acquires The Performance Pump Business From UCI

“We are excited to add Airtex Fuel Pumps and ASC Water Pumps to our current Carter Fuel Pumps portfolio,” said Jay Burkhart, president of TRICO Group. “We will now provide to our customers the industry’s strongest program in the pump category.”

www.aftermarketnews.com

First Brands Group (formerly TRICO Group) ACQUIRES Brake Parts Inc. (BPI) and Champion Laboratories Inc. (Champ Labs)

carterengineered.com

Don't feel too bad: I specifically wanted a Carter replacement mechanical pump for my powerstroke, so that's what I bought. When I got it I thoroughly inspected it and there was not one single thing in the casting or any other part of it that would have distinguished it as a Carter specific product.

 

[Big Bart]

Rock lets just agree to disagree. There are a few that have had good luck.(IE a few like you.). Some have added other things like fuel regulators in order for their pump work.

But many have ended up with new issues and not great results. What I have not seen on this site is “Put a new mechanical fuel pump in now having new issues.”

I had leaking return lines, it did take an extra crank for 15-20 seconds to start each time. When my fuel tank sending unit went out it ran dry, maybe took 4 cranks to re-prime and one minute to run the air out. But that is less time than it would take wiring and installing a electric fuel pump. Worse yet uninstalling and now not likely able to return due to diesel in it if I did not get right one. Then go buy a mechanical one to boot.

I was not inferring it does not work, just it does not seem to be worth the effort. I rather spend the time and money to fix it as it came from the factory. Make it reliable and keep it simple, that is why I bought a IDI.

As mentioned more folks suggesting a electric fuel pump did not work well for them recently.

 

[Cubey]

The mechanical pumps get a bad rap, but I read a lot more about electric fuel pump issues on this site. It does not seem like a uprade, seems more like a downgrade to go electric.

It all depends on your setup.

Holley Red has been good on my RV with the primitive 085 turbo kit.

My NA F250 as a wimpy Mr Gasket 12D type of pump that some people here say is horrible and is too low GPH, and it seems fine to me. I pulled a 27ft travel trailer with it around the midwest but an NA truck for a tow vehicle for that was unbearble at times, but that's just the nature of NA IDIs. The pump was on there when I got the truck has hasn't died yet so I haven't messed with it, besides replacing the plastic in-line filter once.

If you like mechanical, stick with it.

 

[Farmer Rock]

Rock lets just agree to disagree. There are a few that have had good luck.(IE a few like you.). Some have added other things like fuel regulators in order for their pump work.

But many have ended up with new issues and not great results. What I have not seen on this site is “Put a new mechanical fuel pump in now having new issues.”

I had leaking return lines, it did take an extra crank for 15-20 seconds to start each time. When my fuel tank sending unit went out it ran dry, maybe took 4 cranks to re-prime and one minute to run the air out. But that is less time than it would take wiring and installing a electric fuel pump. Worse yet uninstalling and now not likely able to return due to diesel in it if I did not get right one. Then go buy a mechanical one to boot.

I was not inferring it does not work, just it does not seem to be worth the effort. I rather spend the time and money to fix it as it came from the factory. Make it reliable and keep it simple, that is why I bought a IDI.

As mentioned more folks suggesting a electric fuel pump did not work well for them recently.

I wasn't trying to imply mechanical pumps are bad in any way, in fact I run dozens of pieces of heavy equipment that use mechanical pumps and haven't been a problem, however, to even the scales here, when the mechanical pumps go the diaphragm fails and pumps all that fuel into the oil pan and obviously thins the oil a lot. That doesn't happen very often, but I personally have seen this happen 4 times. That isn't necessarily the reason I put E pumps on my trucks and some equipment, but it's worth mentioning. Also, it takes a lot longer to install a mechanical pump than an electric pump, so that's not really an issue. The Holley red bolts right up to the frame under driver's seat and only takes a ground to frame and hot wire. I also like hearing the fuel pump come on every morning when I cycle the gps, but that's just me. Like @Cubey said, if ain't broke don't fix it.
I'm not trying to sell you on E pumps, just saying that are pretty much equal and it comes down to preference. I am not looking down on mechanical pumps at all, I like them in most applications, but not particularly in my trucks. It's nice to be able to change fuel filters on the side of the road and not have to prime the lines with the starter, worrying about killing the batteries/starter

Rock

 

[Cubey]

Like @Cubey said, if ain't broke don't fix it.

My RV's probably original mechanical pump was weeping fuel to the ground after ~35 years so I decided to go electric for the benefits it brings. It seems like it's a bit harder to get at the mechanical pump on a van chassis vs a truck too, like many things, so I didn't want to mess around with the risk that a new mechanical pump might be junk and need replacement again. The Holley Red is easy to reach on the frame rail and I got it for a very good price in early 2020.