The old guy next door insists that's how he's always done it.
I'll try torqueing it with the 3/8" drive torque wrench since I've never used it for heavy duty stuff, from what I can remember. Maybe it'll still be good.
Buying 85 IDI ATS turbo motorhome!
- Thread starter Cubey
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The old guy next door insists that's how he's always done it.
I'll try torqueing it with the 3/8" drive torque wrench since I've never used it for heavy duty stuff, from what I can remember. Maybe it'll still be good.
Booyah45828
Full Access Member
It doesn't matter the drive of your torque wrench, as long as it's accurate for the 20 ft lbs your after. A 3/8 drive would probably be more accurate then your half inch drive at that level.
Prodemand instructions for your rv.
Tighten nut to 22-25 ft. lbs. while turning rotor. Then back off nut 1/8 turn and install retainer/cotter pin. Final bearing end play should be .001-.010".
Prodemand instructions for your rv.
Tighten nut to 22-25 ft. lbs. while turning rotor. Then back off nut 1/8 turn and install retainer/cotter pin. Final bearing end play should be .001-.010".
The Chilton manual says something like: torque to something like 17-25 foot-pounds with turning, back off half turn, retorque to something in inch-pounds, adjust the nut back off just enough so you can install the retainer and pin.
Black dawg
Registered User
Don't need to tighten till the rotor wont turn, but it is a good idea to tighten the bearings really tight and then back off to do the adjusting. Just makes sure everything is seated
Damn rain making me have to wait. I'm about ready to just put the front wheels/spindle nuts on as best I can and have it hauled to a shop to have them fix that spindle/nut problem. Or hire a mobile mechanic to come deal with it. But, I'll wait for the neighbor I guess first. His wife said his next day off is Friday.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I wish you good luck even if you have to put a tarp over the front of your RV to stay dry.
YJMike92
Full Access Member
Rain rain go away. It will dry out soon. I'll bet the spindle thing won't be as bad as you think.
The rain is supposed to (mostly?) stop now. Friday is supposed to be the start of a nice many days, unless the forecast changes.
The outer bearings might get trashed trying to get the stuck nut and washers loose, but they are the cheaper than the inner bearings, at least. I think the RH washer rotated on the spindle a bit which is why it's stuck without a nut. LH nut will probably have to be cold chiseled to split it. At least the spindle has the flat spot on the bottom so that's where the chisel can be used to avoid further damage to the spindle threads.
I just noticed that those steering knuckles on ebay have FREE return shipping at seller's expense within 30 days. I'm tempted to go ahead and order them just in case. If I don't need them, I can return them at no cost to me. $147.xx for both with tax and shipping. I guess I'll just hope they are still available on Friday, after the neighbor is available. The seller might not refund the $25 shipping to get them to me originally?
If I don't just go buy a small cold chisel tomorrow and try splitting the nut myself. I need to make another trip to O'Reilly to pick up the other caliper that came in today anyway.
I just emailed the seller asking what all is with the knuckle and if they have a pic. They only have a generic exterior (below) and odometer shots of the RV were on. And go figure, they are from an older year/model but same make as mine (El Dorado).
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I bought a $14 set of 3 USA made Mayhew cold chisels at O'Reilly while I was there getting the other caliper. They worked nicely. I used them on the flat area of the spindle where it has no threads. The threads from the nut were stuck in the spindle's threads, so I think the spindle threads are okay.
The remaining problem on both sides is that the OEM (bad design) washers have rotated, making them act like nuts. Are the washers a softer metal than the spindle, like the nuts?
If so, I might have to use a large jaw puller to just pull the washer over the spindle threads with the hub. At least they are available as "free" rentals:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...67022/4700242/1985/ford/e-350-econoline?pos=0
That or try to split the washers with the chisels too.
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The remaining problem on both sides is that the OEM (bad design) washers have rotated, making them act like nuts. Are the washers a softer metal than the spindle, like the nuts?
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If so, I might have to use a large jaw puller to just pull the washer over the spindle threads with the hub. At least they are available as "free" rentals:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...67022/4700242/1985/ford/e-350-econoline?pos=0
That or try to split the washers with the chisels too.
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YJMike92
Full Access Member
Making Progress, that's a good thing.
Yep. Thinking about how to proceed with the washers though, without damaging the outer bearings and spindle.
The sway/stabilizer bar bushings look like crap, so I ordered a Moog set from Crapazon today (Sat. delivery).
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Hopefully the nuts will come off of the old bars ok. I'll run a wire cup brush over the threads and spray it with some WD40 first. If not, I can return the bushing kit and and get the whole assemblies for about $30 more. ($13 bushing kit vs $45 for complete arms)
I'm not gonna mess with the front ones up on the radiator support right now since money is overly tight. (Dipping into savings some) These are the ones that I wanna do now, while the front wheel is off. Also the lower ones on that arm that has a bolt going through it.
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YJMike92
Full Access Member
Maybe you could use your chisels to spin/unscrew the washers from the spindles?
Yeah if I can get them to rotate back to normal, they might come off properly. I tried that on the RH side one before I splt the LH side's nut but it didn't seem to want to cooperate. It's in a bind, so it might just need to be split. Maybe I could drill into the washer to give it just enough of a round notch so that I can stick in a huge nail to use as a punch to rotate it. If the outer bearings get trashed, it's not the end of the world. I am trying to avoid that though.
I think it's safe to say the spindles are ruined. So, I just ordered the used knuckles on ebay. Seller said they come with the rotors and hubs and all too.
I also ordered a new Moog king pin set from Crapazon ($69.xx with tax) since I might as well replace those too while it's apart. If, for some reason I don't need them, they can go back.
The rethreading die is gonna go back since I can get $15 back from that and there's probably no saving those threads.
I also ordered a new Moog king pin set from Crapazon ($69.xx with tax) since I might as well replace those too while it's apart. If, for some reason I don't need them, they can go back.
The rethreading die is gonna go back since I can get $15 back from that and there's probably no saving those threads.
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The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Isn't that what you did in the first place? I thought the shop messed up the brakes?
I tell you what if it was me I'd be really frustrated. There is exactly ONE system that you MUST have working on a vehicle, and it's the brakes. They should always be done correctly, and if you didn't already know have IMHO the highest labor rate of anything on a vehicle because of the importance of them, and how relatively easy they are to fix. I haven't been to a shop for about 18 years myself but I'm always shocked when I hear the prices people pay for a shop to do brakes. It's such a racket. I usually end up say something like, "For $850 you should have brought it here and paid me 2/3rds that price for better work!" Shoot I'd be stoked to make $300 for 3 hours of work in my driveway...
