Steering is going to put me in a ditch

IDIBRONCO

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What front end do you have? Sounds like you need a steering shaft, box and axle pivot bushings if not a solid axle
My first guess would be that it's the shaft. On mine, I can tell that the play is not in the linkages (tie rods, etc.) because the wheels both move together. There's not a feeling of one wheel pulling then the other one.
 

Cainon

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My first guess would be that it's the shaft. On mine, I can tell that the play is not in the linkages (tie rods, etc.) because the wheels both move together. There's not a feeling of one wheel pulling then the other one.

Same. My wheels move together. Just too freely.
 

Thewespaul

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All 8 lug 2wd setups will use two I beams so you will have the pivot bushings under the engine crossmember that pretty much all of these trucks need replacing. On my 93 and 97, you back uphill into a parking spot and the alignment is noticeable way off because these bushings allow the beams to move around much more than they are designed.
 

Black dawg

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Jack up each front wheel, disconnect tie rod and make sure each knuckle turns freely. They should turn without much effort. Most of the time this is the cause of no return to center...………..unless the steering gear has been messed with.

after that I would go after the steering gear.
 

Black dawg

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Another thing to add, is pay attention to how much pressure it takes to make the knuckle start to move vs pressure it takes after it is moving. It shouldn't take any more to get it to start to move vs after it is moving.
 

Cainon

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All 8 lug 2wd setups will use two I beams so you will have the pivot bushings under the engine crossmember that pretty much all of these trucks need replacing. On my 93 and 97, you back uphill into a parking spot and the alignment is noticeable way off because these bushings allow the beams to move around much more than they are designed.

Yes when I back up it's ssssooooooo loose

And not sure if this is normal but I can make really sharp turns.
 
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Cainon

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Would I have 5/8 pivot bushing or 1/2"? Was ordering some parts and was not aware there were two different sizes. I just figured being 2wd I would be 1/2 but does being dually mean 5/8? I need schooling lol
 

IH-GM IDI

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Here is a company that "Rebuilds" steering boxes, not just painting them. https://redheadsteeringgears.com. They are in Seattle, WA.
I'll second the redhead box's. I've put dozens on customer trucks with nothing but perfect results.
Then ofcourse when I get my own it fails in a week :rotflmao.
But the warranty was no questions asked and the one in now feels great with 50,000 of 'normal' truck stuff.
 

jrollf

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I'll second the redhead box's. I've put dozens on customer trucks with nothing but perfect results.
Then ofcourse when I get my own it fails in a week :rotflmao.
But the warranty was no questions asked and the one in now feels great with 50,000 of 'normal' truck stuff.
Second there second... My redhead box has been great.

The other thing I did was replaced the steering shaft, found the slip section was wobbly and sloppy. Replaced it with a heavy duty upgrade that has needle bearing u-joints. I initially put this upgrade off for a long while because it is expensive.

https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-96-hd-steering-shaft-assemblies

Can't remember but I might of found the same shaft in eBay for a little less.

Replacing both made a big difference, I get comments about having the tightest steering people ever felt on an old Ford. Of course you have to have good ball joints, tie rods, etc.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
7.3L IDIT with a Banks Sidewinder
ZF 5-spd manual transmission
 

Cainon

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All 8 lug 2wd setups will use two I beams so you will have the pivot bushings under the engine crossmember that pretty much all of these trucks need replacing. On my 93 and 97, you back uphill into a parking spot and the alignment is noticeable way off because these bushings allow the beams to move around much more than they are designed.

Thanks, definitely my problem.
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Cubey

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You should also check your rag joint. Real easy with two people.

I had to drop off my steering shaft to a machine shop to have them drill out the huge rivets so I could replace the rag joint on my F250. I put it back together with heavy grade bolts and nylon insert lock nuts so they can't back off.
 

Cainon

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anyway of getting the metal shell out? The press I rented from advance sucks and is missing some adapters. But for now I'm at home with the truck apart. So can't go correct advance Auto right now.
 

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