Rustproofing opinions? Converter vs wire wheel

should I:

  • strip it

    Votes: 3 100.0%
  • convert it

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    3

79jasper

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If wanting temporary but longer lasting than the cheap stuff, look at woolwax. (Brand name)
It sticks better than fluid film, a little thicker.

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david85

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I've had good results with a product called "Coroseal": http://corroseal.com/

Yes, it's a bit of an eco-product because it's water-born, but hear me out.

The water actually helps it easily seep into the rust scale. It also spreads over a very wide surface area and makes for easy application and cleanup. Best of all, its a one step process. It contains latex binders that convert it into a fairly durable, but slightly flexible primer that can be recoated at any time. Once covered, and all the metal is black (white patches tell you were more is needed), I used a high solids single stage industrial enamel, or fiber reinforced undercoating. If using Undercoating, I still use an oil spray to keep the tar from drying out. This makes for a self-healing moisture resistant barrier.

Up here in Canada, you can buy Coroseal at Cloverdale Paint Supplies. It may be available down south under a different brand name, but I'm not sure.

As for under-oil coatings. I use a product called "FluidFilm", which has a large amount of woolwax mixed into it. It creeps across surfaces and can stay in place in all buy the most exposed areas. Wheel wells and floor pans directly in the wheel spray may require touchup halfway through the winter but it works VERY well. Many on YouTube have documented tests with Fluidfilm vs purpose made automotive undercoating oil and often it works better than what the "professionals" use.

Whichever oil product you use, remember to get it into every seam joint and drain hole you can find (rattle cans with the straw-stem are best here). Get it inside cab corners, bottom door edges, joints under the floor pan, wheel arches, and so on. Those are the spots that rust from the inside out. By the time you see rust there, it's already too late.

Rubberized undercoating looks great when it's first applied, but if you have rust underneath, it will often make things worse. It is best used as a chip-guard on surfaces that are already nearly new. And even then, most of the stuff you find is junk anyway.
 

Rusgo

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https://www.ipaint.us/products/rust-no-more-primer

Self etching. Much better adhesion than POR15. Applies more evenly. Will paint right over rust, but I hit everything quick with an abrasive wheel and degrease.

Durability is phenomenon. High build. Can be used as a primer for any other paint.

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saburai

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https://www.ipaint.us/products/rust-no-more-primer

Self etching. Much better adhesion than POR15. Applies more evenly. Will paint right over rust, but I hit everything quick with an abrasive wheel and degrease.

Durability is phenomenon. High build. Can be used as a primer for any other paint.

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Thanks for the heads up!
Do you have any in service long term? If so, please elaborate.
 

Rusgo

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Thanks for the heads up!
Do you have any in service long term? If so, please elaborate.
Been using for just two years. In that time I've never seen it chip, flake, or scrape off. Have also painted over small rust spots with little prep and it never flakes away with time.

Biggest downside is that the cure time is somewhat slow. Should apply on warm days. It's safe to touch in short time, but continues to harden over the months. What's good about that though is topcoats seem to make a chemical bond with it. I've even spray painted over it an hour after application with no additional prep, and topcoat bond is great.

I have stuff on sheetmetal that will bend with the metal instead of come off. To damage the bond almost requires damaging the underlying metal.

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ComatoseLlama

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Been using for just two years. In that time I've never seen it chip, flake, or scrape off. Have also painted over small rust spots with little prep and it never flakes away with time.

Biggest downside is that the cure time is somewhat slow. Should apply on warm days. It's safe to touch in short time, but continues to harden over the months. What's good about that though is topcoats seem to make a chemical bond with it. I've even spray painted over it an hour after application with no additional prep, and topcoat bond is great.

I have stuff on sheetmetal that will bend with the metal instead of come off. To damage the bond almost requires damaging the underlying metal.

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Is this easily topcoated? If i could needle scale / wire wheel then prime and topcoat and be all set that would be awesome
 

Darren

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If you do use Rust-Oleum, mix it with hardener so it will last longer. I would sand blast the bujesus out of it. I do this with my 86 F350 and it has worked well.
 

yARIC008

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I like Chassis Saver. Its similar to POR15 in that it encapsulates rust and blocks oxygen to keep it from growing. If it were me I’d sandblast and then use Chassis Saver. The aluminum one they got is pretty hard core, its got some ridiculous amount of aluminum flakes per gallon of the stuff which makes it super strong.
 

chillman88

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I like Chassis Saver. Its similar to POR15 in that it encapsulates rust and blocks oxygen to keep it from growing. If it were me I’d sandblast and then use Chassis Saver. The aluminum one they got is pretty hard core, its got some ridiculous amount of aluminum flakes per gallon of the stuff which makes it super strong.

See now that really bothers me. Galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals can be nasty, why would you paint steel with aluminum? I know when they're touching for years the aluminum falls apart.

Is it just a problem here with the road salt? Have you used it and had it hold up? I'm not very fond of doing things like this over again personally.

That was not a personal attack, just something that has been bugging me for a while....
 

Selahdoor

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See now that really bothers me. Galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals can be nasty, why would you paint steel with aluminum? I know when they're touching for years the aluminum falls apart.

Is it just a problem here with the road salt? Have you used it and had it hold up? I'm not very fond of doing things like this over again personally.

That was not a personal attack, just something that has been bugging me for a while....
You beat me to it.

I was going to say, if the problem is rust, then why in the world would you intentionally put aluminum on steel?
 

yARIC008

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Its encased in an epoxy like substance, I’m under the impression the aluminum forms a matrix that just strengthens the whole thing. The epoxy/bonder would block any electrolyte and galvanic corrosion can’t happen. We actually use a similar Wilco product on the pipeline for above ground piping which is obviously carbon steel. They’ve been using that for about 30 years.

I’ve used chassis saver on several projects over the past two years and so far seems to be working perfect.
 

chillman88

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You beat me to it.

I was going to say, if the problem is rust, then why in the world would you intentionally put aluminum on steel?

The only thing I can possibly think is if it acts like galvanizing does and functions as a sacrificial coating to protect the steel?
 
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