I finally got around to doing a proper check with a multimeter at the plug as per the diagnostic protocol that
@chillman88 linked to. When I got to the part where you check Ohms, the protocol was telling me that the brake switch was bad or a bulb was out, I thought something was wrong with the protocol since I'd confirmed that the switch was good and *all* of the brake lights were working...
And then I had an Aaha! moment, I realized that I wasn't even considering the the cab mounted third brake light. Raylan came with a cap and Diego didn't have the cab mounted brake light, so it was "out of sight, out of mind" for me. I'm assuming that I've found the root of my cruise control problem and if I'm correct, I'm happy that I've found it even if I do feel a little dumb. However, I'm facing another problem with changing out the bulb. The clearance between the cab and the cap is so tight that there is no room to remove the screws, not even enough room to get a small flat ratcheting screwdriver in there. I've recently resealed and screwed the cap down, I would really rather not pull it up as I'm working alone, and due to some orthopedic issues I'm quite lame at the moment. Is it possible to access the circuit from inside by pulling the headliner? Ideally I would like to eliminate the third brake light, do I need to put a resistor in line in order for the cruise control to work properly? Alternatively, I could cut an access hole in the cap and make up a cover plate to caulk and screw on when I was finished...