"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

IDIBRONCO

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@IDIBRONCO The only thing is inline with the alternator doesn't catch the whole system load I think? It would be a good indicator of alternator load though.
I don't know if it was right or not. That's how I did it so I could tell how many amps the alternator was putting out. I also believe that would be the only way to get the full system load. The alternator puts out as many amps as is needed so I believe that would be the total system load. It's also the only thing that makes amperage. Everything else only uses it.
 

chillman88

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Passenger side is 12.94 and drivers side is 13.00 after sitting all night disconnected. I'm at a loss. I guess I'll hold onto these batteries for a little while. Really bothers me that they certainly were dead a couple days last week but they seem fine now.

I don't get any sparks hooking them up, I'm at a loss for what could be draining them sometimes and other times they're fine.
 

chillman88

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You could try a load test on them while they're disconnected.

I may have the parts store do it.

No pictures but I got the one installed. The tray hold down bolts on the one side weren't holding anything. I managed to snake a couple 3/8 bolts through there for now. I bent the lip down and put a ratchet strap on the battery to hold it down.

I'm pretty sure the negative stud is touching the edge of the hood, plenty of clearance for the positive stud. I'll have to deal with that soon. Started right up with just the one battery which is a good sign. I left the passenger side battery in for now, just taped off the positive lug really good.

Still cranks a smidge longer than I like, but that might just be because the IP is old and the injectors have been re-shimmed to the right pop pressure?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'm pretty sure the negative stud is touching the edge of the hood,
When I have something like this, or think that a negative wire is in a place where the insulation may be rubber through, I always think "What's it going to do? Ground out?"
 

chillman88

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When I have something like this, or think that a negative wire is in a place where the insulation may be rubber through, I always think "What's it going to do? Ground out?"

Thats why I said I'll have to deal with it soon, not right away. I'm more worried about any pressure on the battery from the hood than I am adding an extra ground point.
 

chillman88

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Well the harness I used to patch up my taillights was from an SRW truck so it doesn't have the wires for the fender markers (which run through the trailer light relay).

I was thinking about how to fix this, I can't just take the old plug off because it's melted together, then it hit me. I unplugged that T tap thing for the four pin flat trailer plug when this happened so the wires must go through there. One thing lead to another and I got one and tapped into the necessary wires and put a plug on it. Now I just need to repair a little bit more of the harness before I can start hooking things up

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chillman88

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I found a toy yesterday....

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The guy pulled it off because of the play in it, he didn't think it was worth it to rebuild it.

After looking it over closely and making sure he wouldn't budge on price I picked it up for $200. Talking with @tjsea and reading a few posts from Russ I think the play is normal for these turbos. If there's any in and out play it's minimal, I can't quite tell if there is or not. It doesn't have enough side to side play to rub the housing either. One of the bolts on the hot side is broken off but I think I'll just leave it for now instead of trying to break off the others!

It's missing the oil feed hose and the breather fitting that goes on the IP housing but that's easy enough to fix. The crossover needs to be patched up a little bit, not sure if I'll have my buddy weld it up or just buy one from Russ.

I don't think I'll get it installed before winter the way things are going but I don't know. I'll need to buy a pyrometer and boost gauge and there's another $200. Plus I'll need to figure out the downpipe too.

Is there any way to seal the downpipe on these? Would it be a good idea to have my friend weld a V band attachment onto this so I know it's sealed good or just a waste of money?
 

IDIBRONCO

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You're going to be very happy with this. Unless you know for sure that it's in good shape, I'd recommend sending it to Russ, Mel, or Wes and have them at least put new seals in it. That way, you can eliminate a possible oil leak and they can look at the bearing play at the same time. It may be a simple task, but I just don't feel comfortable enough to attempt a reseal myself.
 

chillman88

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You're going to be very happy with this. Unless you know for sure that it's in good shape, I'd recommend sending it to Russ, Mel, or Wes and have them at least put new seals in it. That way, you can eliminate a possible oil leak and they can look at the bearing play at the same time. It may be a simple task, but I just don't feel comfortable enough to attempt a reseal myself.

I definitely considered it, I still might. The only issue with that is the cost. I'm pretty sure it wasn't leaking on his truck. I think my plan is put it on for now and run it until I can afford to send it out. I'd like to eventually get the wheel upgraded too.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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@Thewespaul has a great tip for the up pipes and crossover connections, that is to use Copper RTV. It's only rated for like 750* but hasn't failed yet on my setup and I run it up to 1150*+ on grades for minutes on end. Helps a TON with low end spool and torque and of course that helps everything. Just wire wheel and alcohol the mating surfaces then smear the goo and reassemble!
 

chillman88

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Yep I was planning on using the copper RTV. After looking at it I think I'll probably wait to install it until I can afford a new crossover from Russ. It's "usable" but I'll be replacing it in a year or two either way. I didn't honestly expect to find a cheap turbo so soon, I may very well end up waiting to get a full exhaust kit and just do everything all at once. We'll see how it all plays out, all depends on funds.
 

Selahdoor

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Yep I was planning on using the copper RTV. After looking at it I think I'll probably wait to install it until I can afford a new crossover from Russ. It's "usable" but I'll be replacing it in a year or two either way. I didn't honestly expect to find a cheap turbo so soon, I may very well end up waiting to get a full exhaust kit and just do everything all at once. We'll see how it all plays out, all depends on funds.
You wanna give us a text address so we can all text your wife and beg her to let you have one? :D :angel: :frustrate
 

Selahdoor

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So far she would actually be okay with it, sadly it's soup up the truck or pay the mortgage so since I don't have a camper to live in I think I'll pay the mortgage LOL
Smart man!
 

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