Project: The New CDD Shop Truck

[Thewespaul]

I would literally kill for that bullnose. My grandpas truck that he left me is a red 83 f350. It’s in pretty good shape but that one of yours looks new. Mine had a 3.07 dana 61 with 28 spline axles shafts in it, something you might want to check out on yours.


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I’m pretty sure this has the same axle, doesn’t matter a ton to me since it will be replaced with an 8.8 or 9 inch with a four link if the truck goes full race setup. If i go the street/strip route it will get a sterling 10.5 with ladder bars. Absolutely love the way this truck looks.

 

[Thewespaul]

What's your trick to get that paint so nice?!? Great find man! My pickup has always had that matte look and while I'm not much into looks, *some day* I'll have decent paint on her. But that looks great! Pretty amazing story of the engine...wild.

Lots of hand compounding and polishing. This truck was resprayed at some point and the paint is very very soft, it was a fine line of leveling the clear coat to get the shine back and taking too much off with too much pressure, here’s what it looked like after getting just the first fender done

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I’ve never painted a truck myself, but I have a lot of experience restoring paint on older trucks, just takes practice and patience. I use meguires m205 compound and a microfiber towel. Make sure the paint is cool, not cold or hot, for the best results. Haven’t even put a wax down on the truck yet but already has better looking paint than the shop truck.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Wow so not even a buffer wheel just good ol elbow grease? How long did the whole thing take do you think? Came out really well

 

[Thewespaul]

Wow so not even a buffer wheel just good ol elbow grease? How long did the whole thing take do you think? Came out really well

About 18 hours all in all, could use a couple more hours just touching up a few places and doing the roof still. I want to wet sand the roof and bed tops before I buff them, they’re in pretty poor shape compared to the rest of the truck. After I finish stripping the truck I’ll probably do a ceramic coating to preserve the paint then do an organic wax on top of that.

 

[austin92]

I’m pretty sure this has the same axle, doesn’t matter a ton to me since it will be replaced with an 8.8 or 9 inch with a four link if the truck goes full race setup. If i go the street/strip route it will get a sterling 10.5 with ladder bars. Absolutely love the way this truck looks.

Will the 8.8 hold up? Coming from the jeep community that is a popular axle for wranglers since explorers are the same bolt pattern. Even then most people say 33” tires stock, 35s if you replace the carrier with a stronger diff, and 37s if you do 4130 chromoly shafts and baby it. That’s on a 4000lb jeep with a 260ft lb engine lol.

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I love my bullnose too


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[chillman88]

Will the 8.8 hold up? Coming from the jeep community that is a popular axle for wranglers since explorers are the same bolt pattern. Even then most people say 33” tires stock, 35s if you replace the carrier with a stronger diff, and 37s if you do 4130 chromoly shafts and baby it. That’s on a 4000lb jeep with a 260ft lb engine lol.

There are a few things playing in here:

1. Shock loads. Although the race truck will see some shock loads, it's not likely to see tires spinning and then the weight of the vehicle dropped onto a spinning mud tire suddenly grabbing.

2. Leverage. Big big difference in axle loads between 37" mud tires and 28" street/track tires.

3. Weight. That jeep may weight 4000 pounds, but the truck will likely be lighter when Wes gets done stripping off unnecessary weight. Also probably less weight distributed over the truck rear axle vs a Jeep.

 

[Thewespaul]

Done right, an 8.8 does really well in a drag racing application, my cheepo third gen camaro drag car had a 8.8 in it with a spool and 31 splines, only time I would break an axle was driver error, not letting off when you shake the tires or being too aggressive out of the hole. There’s a ton of aftermarket for these rears for 4 link setups and they are super cheap to get since you can pull them straight out of an explorer, cut them down swap axles, install a locker or spool and build your suspension from there.

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I’d be happy with under 5000 lbs with the race truck for the first season. I don’t think I will get below 4000lbs without back halfing the truck and doing away with the stock front suspension. I’ve got a c6 that I’ll be building with a transbrake and manually shift it, so it should be leaving the line pretty hard. Shooting for 110-115 trap speed for the first season.

 

[Thewespaul]

Lipstick on a pig. But going together nicely, should be running soon

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[Goose_ss4]

Lipstick on a pig. But going together nicely, should be running soon

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Check out some of the bronco threads like solo motorsports have some upgrades.

What is all over the gaskets???

 

[Thewespaul]

Permatex copper spray for some good measure

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Lipstick on a pig. But going together nicely, should be running soon

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Yeah buddy! Are you gonna keep a list of parts/mods for this engine for us?

 

[Thewespaul]

This is the engine that came from the race truck, it had a 1988 7.3 na swapped in. I got it running off a can of atf in the truck before I pulled it. Compression numbers are from 1-8

520
410
520
440
470
460
360
380

Engine seems pretty healthy. It’s getting one of my reseal kits with 6.9 hg, cooling mod, and set of head studs torqued to 125 ft lbs. I typically go to 150, but this is the third engine these studs have been in so I’m going easy on them. Everything else is untouched. Oil looks great, coolant passages were full of crud, spent a whole day just flushing the block yesterday. I’ll swap the accessories and clutch over from the idit, and a fresh set of my stage ones. Going to shelf the 3M injectors until I have the race truck going. The stock pump that was on the idit is trashed, the thrust washer has given out and stuck itself in the advance piston bore so it needs a rebuild. I’ve got a $35 core pump I got from a recent junkyard haul picking up cores that looks decent. Gonna toss some seals in it, cut down the delivery valve spring, max out the fuel screw, and try some experimental governor mods, putting a bb behind the guide stud to get more adjustment without cutting the guide stud nut down. I’ll swap on the factory turbo kit and I’m considering putting an eBay turbo on that I’ve had on the shelf for awhile. I’ll see how it fits and go from there once the engine is together more. Got one head torqued down just prepping the other side now.

 

[David A Hodson]

Wes

I would love to rip the powerstroke out of my 1997 cclb and put a built idi turbo in its place. Or find a cclb bullnose and build one for it

 

[Thewespaul]

Coming together. Gonna retorque the head studs one last time then the valvetrain will go together. Then just intake, exhaust, accessories and fuel system.

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[IDIBRONCO]

At least the heavy lifting's over now. I know that I said more than one four letter word while lifting my heads up over the studs.