Youtube guy putting up weird info

[Freight_Train]

I can vouch,the factory turbo can only push around 19PSI under full medal to the metal stock fuel settings MAX.I bypassed mine before I killed WL.....now Travis,what will a Banks push with no waste gate hooked up?

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

A banks will run less boost than an ATS, its a smaller turbo. It has more blades on the compressor wheel but its a smaller turbo, and I'd have to say its not possible for a Banks turbo to out boost an ATS non gated turbo. You could probably make a Banks boost the same as, but not more than.

 

[69dieselfreak]

how about a hypermax

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I dont know a whole lot about hypermax turbos, but I believe the early ones are the same size as the ATS turbos, but the new kit has the largest center section out of all the turbo kits offered for our trucks. But dont quote me on that, Mel is the person to answer that question.

 

[69dieselfreak]

with my maxed out 6.9 pump ive seen maxed out of course is 15-16 maybe around that area i usually pay more attension to my pyro than my boost gauge

 

[MARQ2277]

I don't have a pyro gauge. What kind of temps do you see while driving around, pulling, and freeway driving??

I have a ATS turbo (was on the truck when I bought it), and a K&N filter set up. What turbo are you using, and how do you like it??

Marq
______________________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[FordGuy100]

I don't have a pyro gauge. What kind of temps do you see while driving around, pulling, and freeway driving??

I have a ATS turbo (was on the truck when I bought it), and a K&N filter set up. What turbo are you using, and how do you like it??

Marq
______________________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

Yikes man.....you need a pyro bad. If you have that pump turned up at all you need a pyro or bad things can happen. A pyro needs to be first on your list of things needed.

 

[MARQ2277]

Yes, you are correct. I drive pretty easy, but I do tow a big 28 foot tailer around with me. Can you make a suggestion on a set up that I may be able to afford?? I need to add that gauge pretty bad, your right. I could be having issues now, and don't know it. Especially with all the mods I have, and having the pump turned up. I do not have any smoke coming out, even under hard foot work, I don't think it does even then. So, I am hoping with no smoke, even cold, I am not getting to hot. What do you run under idle, towing, and freeway driving on your pyro gauge??

Marq
____________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[FordGuy100]

Yes, you are correct. I drive pretty easy, but I do tow a big 28 foot tailer around with me. Can you make a suggestion on a set up that I may be able to afford?? I need to add that gauge pretty bad, your right. I could be having issues now, and don't know it. Especially with all the mods I have, and having the pump turned up. I do not have any smoke coming out, even under hard foot work, I don't think it does even then. So, I am hoping with no smoke, even cold, I am not getting to hot. What do you run under idle, towing, and freeway driving on your pyro gauge??

Marq
____________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

I know your on a budget....but gauges are a place not to skimp. I would say a good quality gauge that isnt all that expensive (relativly speaking), would be autometer gauges. A autometer pyro will run around $130 with everything. But if you need a boost gauge, I dont really like there's, they have the vaccum gauges and those I just plain hate. I wouldnt be worried with a boost gauge right now if you dont have one. This is what gauge I think you should get http://www.egauges.com/vdo_ind.asp?Type=Pyrometer&Series=Ultra_Lite&PN=ATM-4344. Then just search the site for a generic mountic option.

I see around 220* idling if you let it idle a long time, it'll settle around there (I dont like to though, that idling a little to cold). Cruising around has a lot of variables for me.....if I'm down in the valley it's around 500* at 60mph...up by my house 55mph can range from 450* to 1000* (hilly). Towing a 4K pound boat I never saw above 1100* and that was WOT for a couple minutes up a steep grade. I've seen as high as 1250* unloaded though. I have a sneaking suspision that my pump could be turned up more (I think it was turned up a 1/4 turn).

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Where is your thermocouple at Justin? 1250 is pushing it pretty hard for one of these trucks.

As far as gauges go, you cant go wrong with Autometer. They're not a crappy foreign made gauge, and they stand by their product. I do have to say $130 is cheap for a Autometer pyrometer with the thermocouple. I just bought a new Autometer pyro for my moms truck when we put the new 6.9 in, and it cost me almost $160. I really like Autometers for my cars, but I like the facing of the Isspro gauges with their caution and warning colored faces. But as in the case of the pyro I replaced from my moms truck, it was an old Isspro, and it was a piece. It worked for maybe 500 miles and then the thing never did work right again.
I've heard next year all Isspro gauges are going to be made in USA, and none of them are going to require that stupid amplifier box.

 

[MARQ2277]

Very cool guys. Yes, I agree, . . . I will get a pyro gauge, and you're right again, some things you just can't screw with. Even on the cheap I always try to buy things made in USA. I don't want any China crap on my American truck. (I hope I don't get any hate mail for saying that, and I guess cheap crap can come from a lot of places, I'm just saying, . . .)

Anyway sounds like Autometer is the way to go. I really appriciate the feed back on the subject matter you guys, thanks.

Marq
____________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[69dieselfreak]

MARQ227 i was reading what u had for your truck
stage 1 injectors can u tell us a little bit about them
i have and autometer pyro i love it thanks

 

[FordGuy100]

Yeah, I do like autometer more for cars.....to me they just fit in a car better than a truck. I love my ISSPRO's, there are only 2 drawbacks to them 1) Price, they are a little on the spendy side and 2) The dang amplifier boxes. You really need to mount of amplifier boxes, my are all just zip tied together underneth the dash...and since they are all bouncing around once in a blue moon my water temp gauge will kinda jump around for a couple secs, then settle back to where it was. I just figured since he was on a budget....that ISSPRO's might be a little to expensive, and truth be told autometer gauges are probably just as good (though I dont like the design as much). I just remember riding in my uncles and grandfathers big rigs (Grandfathers was a KW something rather, uncles was a Peterbilt 379), and I remember seeing ISSPRO's in both rigs. If they are good enough for those things, they are good enough for my truck.

My thermocouple is mounted on the drivers side exhaust manifold in between the 2 and 3 cylinder back.

 

[MARQ2277]

The Stage One (maybe the wrong term), are injectors made for a turbo diesel engine. They either take stock injectors and modify them, or they are using injectors for the 1994 turbo IDI engine.

Marq
__________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[FordGuy100]

Also, my truck hardly ever gets to high in EGT's...I really truly dont even have to watch the gauge like a hawk, it never gets that high. When I saw that 1250* I started out in 4th gear at 30mph (1100-1200rpms) and accelerated WOT up a steep hill to 85mph, seemed like it took 1 minute. When you start out that low of rpm's with no boost, EGT's are around 900* by 40mph, 1000* by 50mph 1100* by 65mph, and then 1250* by 85mph. If I gun it doing 60mph and 1.5-2 psi of boost while cruising around, it wont go over 1100*, cause by the time it does I'm doing like 85mph and the IP starts to defuel. 90mph WOT is only around 1100* with 7.5psi of boost (which is down from around 8.5psi when accelerating, because of the defueling). I kinda want to turn the fuel up, but I know fuel economy will go down.