Youtube guy putting up weird info

[Freight_Train]

BONE STOCK when I installed my Pyrometer I could make it push 1400 degrees before I wimped out and backed off.Well,Bone stock minus a muffler.After I turned up the fuel with stock fuel system parts and 80,000Miles on them I could make it zing to 1500 degrees in 3 seconds(from 800 degree crusing temp) if I didn't watch the gauge real close at WOT.

 

[FordGuy100]

The Stage One (maybe the wrong term), are injectors made for a turbo diesel engine. They either take stock injectors and modify them, or they are using injectors for the 1994 turbo IDI engine.

Marq
__________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

Thanks for clarifying, I was wondering the same thing as well

 

[Freight_Train]

Those ain't stage 1 injectors.Those are just G codes.

 

[MARQ2277]

I don't think that's the case. My pump is turned up, but not to the point of smoke. What I think people miss is that, when the pump is turned up, and the injector pops, two (2) things can happen, or do happen. One (1), you get a better spray droplets (a better mist), which burns better. Not that you are actually burning more fuel; But, it also allows for more throttle, which could use more fuel. But, with the pump turned up, when I drive at 55, it still uses the same amount of fuel, regardless. I hope that makes sense.

marq
_____________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[FordGuy100]

I don't think that's the case. My pump is turned up, but not to the point of smoke. What I think people miss is that, when the pump is turned up, and the injector pops, two (2) things can happen, or do happen. One (1), you get a better spray droplets (a better mist), which burns better. Not that you are actually burning more fuel; But, it also allows for more throttle, which could use more fuel. But, with the pump turned up, when I drive at 55, it still uses the same amount of fuel, regardless. I hope that makes sense.

marq
_____________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

Yup, when you turn the pump up it increases the amount of fuel given in consideration to where the throttle is at. So if stock WOT is say 15gph, and you turn the pump up, now 2/3 throttle will net you 15gph, and WOT will net you 20GPH. Thats what I get out of it. When you turn up the fuel you dont have to push the peddle down as far to maintain speed, but you would be injecting the same amount of fuel as you would prior

 

[MARQ2277]

Well, the pump works a little different. What you are actually adjusting is a spring that limits the pump rollers (which ride on a cam) from contracting all the way back. The more the rollers are allowed to contract back (while riding on a cam, there are two (2) rollers opposite of each other, the cam ring has humps, and the rollers follow the humps, when they go out, fuel enters the chamber, and when the cam pushes the rollers in, the rollers force the fuel out to the injectors.) All the screw does is allow the rollers to compress more fuel. The throttle meter (which is connected to the throttle level, and to the linkage, peddle, etc.) allows fuel in. It controls the fuel, and when you are doing 55, it is in what ever position is going to be in. It's only when you WOT, that the max fuel is restricted by how far the rollers are allowed to contract, and draw fuel in, and then compress and send the fuel out. Right now, if your throttle and my throttle is set to do 55, we will be using the same fuel amount, cause the fuel meter, and the rollers are at the same place; now when you WOT, my rollers will contract futher than yours, and at that time will I use more fuel, and only at that time.

Does that make sense??

I have every know documentation on that silly pump, if you would like to see how it works. I had contacted Stanadyne, and they sent me a power point presentation on how the pump works.

If you have any other questions let me know.

Marq
____________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere: