Wrong Breed Right Wrapper Build :)

[wmoguy]

Youll love the 5" exhaust. I had it on mine. All my buddies use to comment "here comes the dump truck"
It will have a very deep belchy sound.

 

[alienturtle]

nice boat too!

Thanks its a 2006 champion 20'. Sad they arnt produced by champion anymore. its a great boat.

THANK YOU I had seen that thread before, but I've been so busy that I didn't see that you had resolved it. Have you actually gotten the over-the-axle pipe yet? On a brief look at the website, it doesn't look like you can order online...did you find a local dealer, or how did you go about that?

Thanks again

I have not ordered the pipe yet. You can order directly from their website. See the add to cart button. I havent decided if i am going to get the dodge pipe or the ford pipe yet.

More pics and progress to come tonight.

 

[alienturtle]

UPDATE! 1of2

Ok guys the last 2 days went well. Just want to update with some pics. I met my high school ag teacher i am really good friends with today. Our high school has a full mill and lathe. I got a sweet lesson today on how to use the mill to mill my rocker towers to accept the arp head studs. He showed me how to do the first one and i finished the other 5. It was really cool learning how to use it. I have watched him use both the lathe and mill a hundred times and finally got my shot at it. Lubed all the studs and nuts and got the head torqued down to spec. I went 20 - 40 - 60 - 80 - 90 - 100 - 110 - 125 is what arp says they want them at. By the end of that going through the sequence of 26 head studs wow my arm was worn out haha. Side cover is on and new motor mounts are on. Tappets are in as well as the cam. Valve adjustments are all done and valve covers are on. I ordered the valve cover with the oil fill in it but i was shipped a regular valve cover. When i pulled this motor apart a piece of the crankshaft thrust bearing full off and went into the pan. There was some metal in the bottom of the pan from it. The oil pump looks like it might of seen some of the metal. Im not chancing an oil pump with this build so the front cover is going to have to wait till i get a new pump. All in All good good day. Lots more to come stay tuned!.

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Tappets in and held up.

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Cam goes in and timed to the crank

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My KDP fix. I did this when i first put the motor in. Still have a pin in the hole. Must of worked lol

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Pushrods cleaned and in

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Milled rocker towers

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Both turbos are going to drain into the pan via a -12AN hose for the secondary and -16AN hose for the primary so the stock drain gets plugged

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Rockers in and bolted down

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Side cover on and valve covers Installed.

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[alienturtle]

UPDATE! 2of2

Cummins has a plastic fuel heater that is know to leak and screws to the head then the fuel filter screws to that....you know what i say to that...screw..that fuel heater delete

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new motor mounts on

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cool pic

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the stock coolant temp is a huge npt. 3/4?? most aftermarket sensors are 1/8npt. So this is the 3/4? to 1/8 adapter. I ran this before and didnt have an issue with it. But this time i opened the inside up so the coolant could get around the sensor more. Did it more of just because i can.

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Thats it today.. More to come. Going to call on an oil pump tomorrow so i can get the front cover bolted on.

 

[The Warden]

A couple of dumb questions, but I don't know much about the 6BT and would like to learn

First, the studs that come up from the block and through the rocker towers...how does that work? It doesn't look like there's a nut below the rocker tower, so does it clamp the head through the rocker tower, or is that stud not relevant to holding the head down and is just for the rocker tower? If the latter, why change that to a stud?

Second...IIRC getting the rear valve cover off to adjust the valves is a cast-iron bear when the engine's in an '80-'97 Ford chassis. Short of a body lift, how is that handled?

I can probably come up with a bunch more...but curious minds want to know thank you in advance! And, this build looks great makes me want to tear an engine apart and rebuild it just for the sake of doing it

 

[alienturtle]

A couple of dumb questions, but I don't know much about the 6BT and would like to learn

First, the studs that come up from the block and through the rocker towers...how does that work? It doesn't look like there's a nut below the rocker tower, so does it clamp the head through the rocker tower, or is that stud not relevant to holding the head down and is just for the rocker tower? If the latter, why change that to a stud?

Second...IIRC getting the rear valve cover off to adjust the valves is a cast-iron bear when the engine's in an '80-'97 Ford chassis. Short of a body lift, how is that handled?

I can probably come up with a bunch more...but curious minds want to know thank you in advance! And, this build looks great makes me want to tear an engine apart and rebuild it just for the sake of doing it

i hope i am reading your ? correctly and will try to answer accordingly. If you go back to page 1 and look at the last 2 pictures i posted there. You will see the studs thread into the block and are longer than the rest of the studs. These 6 studs go straight through the head as well as through the towers with the top of the tower being the clamp. The head is getting held down through the towers. The towers must me milled down .200 deep to accept the extra height that a nut plus a washer has over just a regular head of a bolt. This is only done to clear the valve covers.

Yes the rear valve cover is a pain to get out unless you have "worked" your firewall back such as i have. with NO body lift i am able to wiggle the last valve cover up and out with a little bit of elbow grease When the motor goes back in i will sure to have more pics of that sort of thing.

 

[7.3_IDI_guy]

I just cant wait to see some youtube vids of this.... please!!!!

 

[The Warden]

i hope i am reading your ? correctly and will try to answer accordingly. If you go back to page 1 and look at the last 2 pictures i posted there. You will see the studs thread into the block and are longer than the rest of the studs. These 6 studs go straight through the head as well as through the towers with the top of the tower being the clamp. The head is getting held down through the towers. The towers must me milled down .200 deep to accept the extra height that a nut plus a washer has over just a regular head of a bolt. This is only done to clear the valve covers.

You got it right so, do you have to wait to torque the head studs down until the rocker towers are added? Or, how is that aspect handled?

Yes the rear valve cover is a pain to get out unless you have "worked" your firewall back such as i have. with NO body lift i am able to wiggle the last valve cover up and out with a little bit of elbow grease When the motor goes back in i will sure to have more pics of that sort of thing.

Thank you very much...I imagine I'll have a few more questions as this progresses along...

 

[typ4]

Please tell me you replaced the piston squirter jets before the crank went in , or at least made very sure they were clean.. Otherwise, I **** after your build.

 

[alienturtle]

Please tell me you replaced the piston squirter jets before the crank went in , or at least made very sure they were clean.. Otherwise, I **** after your build.

little brown looking plastic nipple looking things. lol yes they were all cleaned out and clear

You got it right so, do you have to wait to torque the head studs down until the rocker towers are added? Or, how is that aspect handled?


Thank you very much...I imagine I'll have a few more questions as this progresses along...

Yes you much have the towers installed before you torque the head. Those 6 studs or bolts are part of the torque sequence.

 

[The Warden]

little brown looking plastic nipple looking things. lol yes they were all cleaned out and clear

The piston squirter jets are plastic?!? I confess to being quite surprised by that...do the heat, vibration, and/or oil exposure cause any problems with them?

Yes you much have the towers installed before you torque the head. Those 6 studs or bolts are part of the torque sequence.

That's what I was wondering...interesting setup, but if it works, can't complain and AFAIK head gaskets aren't a trouble item on these engines...

BTW, if this thread had to be moved, why wasn't it moved to the First Gen forum? This is a VE pump engine...

 

[towcat]

moved.
guess it must have been Mel who did it. As long as he got it out of the IH idi section, that's all he cares. I'll do the fine tuning

 

[alienturtle]

Update

Not much progress the last 2 days. Been getting busy at my shop. Go figure. Anyway, put the engine back on the crane and got it off the stand to install the rear main seal. I purchased the seal kit that includes a wear sleeve. I didnt want to take a chance with this build to have a leaky rear main. The crank was iffy. Installed the front crank seal in the front cover along with the wear sleeve on the crank. Installed the super clean oil pickup tube and tomorrow i will get the oil pan sealed on it. The idle on these things are a pain to get to as well as adjust. I re invented the idle screw with a very still spring and a long M6 stud. No more chisel and hammer to break the lock nut loose. . More pics to come

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[Darrin Tosh]

running about 50-60lbs boost and im shooting for 450-500hp

I hope your not disappointed if those aren't your final numbers,..depending on what you are doing with the pump, from what I see I think you'll be closer to 550HP

Just an Awesome Looking Motor, You are **** a great Job.

 

[FordGuy100]

Awesome build!

Nice to see your sticking with the VE pump