Worked on my ZF 5 swap tonight

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

You should be able to use your same drive shafts IIRC. Im not sure why the ones you have are different lengths. But hey, maybe Im wrong.

 

[Agnem]

Looking great there Gary! Your' gettin' er' done.

All IDI's have that one "missing" crank bolt. I think they do that for balancing reasons.

 

[hesutton]

Gary it is looking good. Did you find out the issue with the SMF? You should be rowing gears in the near future.

Heath

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

Looking great there Gary! Your' gettin' er' done.

Thanks Mel.. That means a lot, coming from you.

Gary it is looking good. Did you find out the issue with the SMF? You should be rowing gears in the near future.

Heath

Heath, all I had to do, was tap it with a hammer and it came right off.. Honestly, it looked like it was the actual end of the crank.. Looks can be deceiving!

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[EMD_DRIVER]

You should be able to use your same drive shafts IIRC. Im not sure why the ones you have are different lengths. But hey, maybe Im wrong.

Everyone's told me that the ZF 5 is 5.5" shorter than the E4OD. Hence, the different size shafts..

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

I managed to pull a groin muscle at work the other day, so the progress hasn't been what I'd have liked... Here's a few pictures of today's progress so far..

Here's the clutch disk, pressure plate and flywheel installed. I wasn't sure of the proper place for the pilot bearing, but was told it goes in the flywheel (Wouldn't fit anywhere else, anyway.) Once I removed the flexplate adapter, I found that the crank only has the 9 holes in it. The flexplate adapter had 10 holes.

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I found out the hard way, that one gusset bolt wouldn't come out of the frame. Since I don't have a body lift, it gets to stay right where it is! I picked up some 7/16 x 1-1/4 bolts, flat washers and nylock nuts from work yesterday and I'll be using them. I put two flat washers on each side, which will allow the bolts to sit very close to the floor board, but not touch it. These next two pics show the left-side gusset in place, but not yet tightened down. I need to wait until the cross-member is in, before I tighten them down. The 7/16 bolts are just a hair smaller than the factory bolts.

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I'll be keeping the E4OD, in case I get the chance to replace the C6 in my 87 with it. I opted not to modify the linkage rod, that connects the shifter to the transfer case. Instead, I made a new one out of a piece of flat steel. I did use the grommets from the E4 shaft and will have to replace them, if I put it back in the 87. The distance between the holes is 4-3/16" to the centers. I painted it, but the paint didn't exactly survive the installation.

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If it turns out not strong enough, I can always add a stiffening rod to it. I did test it after installation and it worked flawlessly.

 

[npe3484]

I'm interested in doing this swap, except it would be from C6 to ZF5. Does the trans have to come from a diesel truck? Or would one from a gasser work as well.

 

[tractorman86]

no gassers have a whole different front half case and will be WAAAYY too low geared if you change the front half

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

I'm interested in doing this swap, except it would be from C6 to ZF5. Does the trans have to come from a diesel truck? Or would one from a gasser work as well.

Yes, it has to be from a diesel. The bellhousing pattern is different, between gassers and diesels.

 

[subway]

I'm interested in doing this swap, except it would be from C6 to ZF5. Does the trans have to come from a diesel truck? Or would one from a gasser work as well.

got to be a diesel, you "can" make one from a big block work but it takes some machining.

sorry i didnt get to call back Gary, i was out with a bad cold as of late. sounds like you got it though. the pilot bearing does press into the flywheel it is not part of the crank. got one in my garage if you need a pic.

edit: looks like Jacob and Gary beat me to it

 

[Agnem]

Gary, without the pilot bearing in place, you won't be able to use your clutch disc centering tool to line up the clutch disk. I'm afraid you'll have to take the presure plate and disc off to install it anyway. It's a friction fit on the flywheel, so assuming there isn't one there, you'll just tap it in with a hammer and punch. Be carefull where you hit it. If there is on in place, I don't know how you'd get it out without removing the flywheel and hitting it from the back.

 

[discbrks]

"Clearance" the floor & firewall lip in these areas to make the up pipe & down pipe installation easier.

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

I got the transmission in, but am having a little difficulty with the cross member. I have two different cross members.. One has two holes in the middle of it and one has three. I got to looking at the manual and it shows a CM with three holes in it. The transmission support plate that I have, does not fit the CM with three holes in it. I'm not opposed to modifying it, but want to be sure I'm using the right CM. Here's what the manual shows:

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[EMD_DRIVER]

Here are pics of the two crossmembers that I have.

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[6.9poweredscout]

where'd u get the flywheel from? will one from a t-19 6.9 work?

-Jon